As many of you have heard, the big news for restaurant obsessives this week is the (leaked) release of the 2010 update to the Michelin Guide. As usual, there are some winners, some losers and some shock decisions where potentials didn’t make the big time. Whether you love it or hate it, backpatting exercise or true culinary standard, winning a michelin star (or two) is still seen by many as the ultimate accolade in the restaurant world. The iconic Red Guide has been kicking around Britain since 1974 and in it’s latest iteration has decided to award another three jewel to the British gastronomical crown. As of 2010, Britain now boasts four three-star restaurants. The lucky fella is of course the international brand name Alain Ducasse, and the winning restaurant is based in the Dorchester… which coincidentally is owned by the Sultan of Brunei.
The other big winners are of course the rising star himself Mr Brett Graham and by extension his mentor Phil Howard of The Square. The Ledbury finally lives up to their ‘rising stars’ status bestowed upon them last year, and in my view they have scored a surprise whopper with the addition of Harwood Arms to the list. So now both master and apprentice share the limelight in London, both on equal footing with two stars. I think 2009 was definitely the year of Howard and Graham, I had already alluded to this in my Ledbury/Square reviews in 2009 and while they weren’t quite the hottest tables in town, they certainly ran the best kitchens.
So who were the biggest losers then? Without a doubt, it’s got to be Gordon Ramsay. Whilst his pride and joy at Royal Hospital Road remains untouched; Claridges has been stripped of it’s solitary star. To add insult to injury, reports of his GR Holding’s financial losses certainly does not help. So this looks like a personal kitchen nightmare for Ramsay, it would be interesting to see how he digs himself out of this. Less TV work, less books and more time in the kitchen perhaps? For more on this, you can read Jay Rayner’s extended commentary. Though probably more damaging is The Capital being stripped of both stars! I was planning a visit (I still am) since it was the most affordable of the London two stars, but I had thought it was more underrated rather than dipping standards. Oh well, now that they have lost their stars, I have somehow become more fascinated with it… will they suck it up and cook their pants off this year to recapture the glory days? Has anyone been and what were your thoughts?
One announcement I was expecting never came and I am still reeling from the shock of Eastside Inn’s exclusion from this list. For me, this was 2009′s breakthrough restaurant, and I think Bjorn thoroughly deserves his sparkles. Coincidentally, I actually dine at the Bistro last night, and had a chance to speak with Bjorn himself about this year’s revision. I could tell he was gutted, well I am gutted for him as well. Though I fully expect them to gain a star when I do this write-up again in a year’s time.
Which brings me to speak about the significance of this list – how accurate is it, and what are their benchmarks? Does it guarantee good food? In my view, I feel that the Michelin guide doesn’t simply seek out great cooking, it’s judging a much smaller pool of restaurants which are backed with moneybags, or chefs with star power… sometimes, I just feel that it is abit of a back patting exercise, and stars being granted on the basis of reputation than on the back of bloody great recipes, executed by well-oiled kitchens. Then again, I don’t want to say that there is a definite pattern to things, because I don’t think there is any conspiracy here, nothing more than a madman’s babble. I think if one enjoys old fashioned wining and dining, the validity of the michelin guide still hold true. Not to say that the restaurants in the current guide serves bad food, but that good restaurants do exists outside this guide. Heck two of my personal favourites are not even in this list, Cambio de Tercio and Eastside Inn. I think it is down to different people having different perceptions of food, afterall, it is such a subjective topic that sometimes pinning down great cooking to a set of rigid standards is paradoxical to the spirit of food. One aspect of the guide that gets overlooked is value for money. As much as I love throwing money away to fund my ever increasing trouser sizes; the prices at multiple starred restaurants are simply out of reach for me. One thing is for sure: this list is not definitive. Somehow I feel that in the new mellenium, this sort of worship of the glamarous is horribly outdated, but still, I respect it.
Finally, looking into my personal crystal ball, I predict 2010 to be the year of the Galvins brothers. As I alluded to in my Bistrot de luxe write up, I think they are blazing a trail of glory this year; Windows has already won a star this year, and I am now ever anxious to see what the kitchen at La Chapelle is really capable of. They are highest on my list, and I expect to visit very soon.
Ok so what are your thoughts on this year’s guide? Feel free to share. I have put together the London List below and the information has been sourced from the official Michelin Guide website. For the restaurants which I had been to, I have linked it to my write-up where applicable, for the ones where I didn’t write it up, I have included a short remark of what I thought of the place. Deletions are marked with a strike through.
I’m hardly a Michelin Star worshipper, having only been to 19 from this list of 50 in the last two years. If you would like to follow a foodblog dedicated to the glamourous try Gen.u.ine.ness and FoodSnob.
Three Stars: 4 Restaurants
- Alain Ducasse at The Dorcester, Mayfair (New 2010)
- The Fat Duck, Bray, Berkshire – On my eat list
- Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Royal Hospital Road, London
- The Waterside Inn, Bray, Berkshire – On my eat list
Two Stars: 7 restaurants
- The Ledbury, Westbourne Grove (New 2010)
- Le Gavroche, Mayfair – On my eat list
- Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley, Berkeley hotel, Knightsbridge
- Pied á Terre, Bloomsbury
- The Square, Mayfair
- Hibiscus, Mayfair
- L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Covent Garden
The Capital, Chelsea, London(lost both stars)
One Star: 39 restaurants
- The Harwood Arms, Fulham (New 2010) – definitely on my eat list
- Bingham Restaurant (at Bingham Hotel), Richmond-upon-Thames (New 2010)
- Apsleys (at the Lanesborough Hotel), Belgravia (New 2010)
- Galvin at Windows (at London Hilton Hotel), Mayfair (New 2010) – On my eat list
- Tamarind, Mayfair (New 2010)
- Texture, Regents Park (New 2010)
- Chapter One, Kent
- Hakkasan, Soho *I don’t like it, used to be great under Yau, but now that it is sold, quite frankly, it sucks.
- Rhodes TwentyFour, City of London
- Club Gascon, City of London
- River Cafe, Hammersmith
- La Trompette, Chiswick
- St John, Clerkenwell
- Tom Aikens, Chelsea – On my eat list
- Rasoi, Chelsea
- The Glasshouse, Kew Village
- Chez Bruce, Wandsworth List
- Amaya, Belgravia
- Nahm, Belgravia
- Zafferano, Belgravia
- Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, Mayfair – On my eat list
- The Greenhouse, Mayfair
- Murano, Mayfair – On my eat list
- Maze, Mayfair
- Benares, Mayfair *Mixed, only above average food in a poncy setup, I’d rather try Tayyabs for a quarter of the price.
- Umu, Mayfair
- Kai, Mayfair – On my eat list
- Semplice, Mayfair
- Wild Honey, Mayfair
- Nobu (at the Metropolitan), Mayfair *I like, abalone sashimi is excellent, and the miso black cod is still the best in town.
- Nobu Berkeley, Mayfair *I like mainly for it’s wood fire oven; truffle cabbage steak is heavenly.
- Sketch The Lecture Room and Library, Oxford Circus
- L’Autre Pied, Marylebone
- Rhodes W1, Marylebone
- Locanda Locatelli, Marylebone
- Yauatcha, Soho *I like, but.. I don’t think it’s michelin material.
- Arbutus, Soho
- Roussillon, Victoria
- Quilion, Victoria
Aubergine, Chelsea, London(lost star)Ambassade de l’Ile, South Kensington, London(lost star)Assaggi, Bayswater, London(lost star)Foliage, Knightsbridge, London(lost star)Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s, Mayfair, London(lost star)Richard Corrigan at Lindsay House, Soho, London(lost star)
Source : The Michelin Guide for Great Britain & Ireland 2010 )
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the capital’s changed chefs, it’s quite standard for a restaurant to have to re-earn its stars when this happens.
You’re right – Michelin stars are assessed on much more than food and I get the impression that you need a decent wine list to get a sniff.
I think all guides have their pros and cons, so even the most famous food-guide in the world needs a pinch of salt taken with their estimates.
Haha you deny being a ‘Michelin hunter’ but you’ve certainly reviewed a fair number of starred restaurants and have more on your eat-list. I’m quite keen to hear your review of Le Gavroche though, since I thought it was fantastic.
All the stars are going to Tokyo — London is far behind and cannot compete
with Japan.
With no reservations and dishes available in tapas-sized portions, L’Atelier was his two fingers up to formal dining. That he got away with it was as much to do with the quality of the cooking, which, despite the foreign trappings, was still unmistakably, fantastically French in dishes such as chestnut velouté with caramelised foie gras and crispy bacon, as it was to do with a trend towards informal dining. Ironically enough when, in 2003, he opened his second L’Atelier in Paris, it quickly gained a Michelin star. For more information visit http://www.travelworth.com/the-best-hotels-in-the-world-for-your-vacation.html
Hi Kang – the Ledbury is not on Westbourne Grove at all, it is on Ledbury Road (the giveaway is in the name!). The broader question which I do not think you have touched on is whether Michelin stars favour a certain type of French classical cooking over other styles of cooking which I think is certainly a problem reflected in the award of 3 stars to Ducasse. They have addressed your concerns over price by also awarding the Michelin Bib Gourmand to well priced restaurants.
Had quite a good experience at Claridges when I was there some time last year. Thought that the entire experience is way better than Yauatcha, which saw an increase in prices and a reduction in menu recently.
I can’t agree more about Hakkasan.
Hmm, hoping to try Fat Duck before the next price hike.
C K
You make some very good points about the accuracy/validity/fairness of Michelin marks. Sadly, Bib isn’t alone in rating restaurants according to what’s on a chef’s CV rather than what’s on his plates. Many UK critics do the same.
Interesting post. I really love your photo.
t – Ahh I see. Will find out more about the changes at the Capital.
Mr Noodles – … not to mention shiny platinum plated toilet seats.
Wild Boar – hahaha… there are far more astute michelin hunters than I
, but you are right – all guides have strengths and weaknesses.
M2 – Mmm very true is it something like 150 restaurants right?
Travel Destinations – Hmm….
GC – Hi C! Thanks for pointing it out, will make the changes, and yea terrible oversight from myself not to mention the Bib. Speaking of this particular style of French cuisine, I think the guide is biased towards what is known as Haute Cuisine right? This is due in part to the refinement work done by Chef Auguste Escoffier in the early 20th Century, and whom is considered a sort of father of modern day haute cuisine, and more liberally the front runner of what we recognise as the ‘michelin standard’ … if such a bias does exists.
London Chow – Hakkasan is one of the worst restaurants in town in my humble opinion. I will give it that it still has great ambiance but food wise, this place is rip-off central. And this is coming from someone who used to like it. My example relates to meals from 2006 through to 2008. In 2006, when it was still a Yau establishment (and at the height of his success) , the cooking was definitely higher in terms of technical ability. I remember the claypot atlantic scallops – five extra large scallops full of ‘wok hei’ – very good. The lobster tail roll – a whole tail wrapped in cucumber and then served in a clear broth – fantastic. Creme Brulee with melon – refreshing twist on a classic. In 2006, I think the star was well deserved. In 2008 , the scallops turned into fishballs and the Berkshire sweet and sour pork is worse than Wong Keis, at 15 pounds they are asking for, they are having a laugh! As for Yauatcha, I think the dim sum is good, but its not michelin star good. I can think of at least a handful of better and cheaper dim sum places in town which would easily match the standard at Yauatcha. The Yau magic is waning in 2010, I’m no longer a fan of his restaurants I’m afraid, his restaurants used to be bespoke and unique, now they feel commercial, I don’t know, I just think he’s turning into abit of a franchise, too much of a business and not much of a passion. I guess same thing about GR. I’m hoping to try Fat Duck this year as well.
Youngandfoolish – I suppose that’s where foodblogs come in
LexEat – Thanks!
ha ha ha you star collector! So that’s what happened with The Capital. Like we discussed… Waterside Inn… you and me. Romantic weekend in Bray. HAR HAR HAR
I share many of the same on my eat list. But Chez Bruce is also on my eat list. Mainly because my mate Dave lives 10 minutes from there and he owes me for helping move his cast iron bathtub.
M2 – perhaps stars going to Tokyo has something to do with population density, restaurant location density and general food culture.
That’s a good write up, and I really enjoy your blog as well. I totally agree that Eastside Inn should have been awared a star. Michelin claims a star is for ‘good cooking’ so on that basis, it should have been well deserved. They are pratically next door to me so I pop in often and know they have worked very hard since opening in spring 09. All the best to them. Have you tried the now menu-less restaurant? ps. how excellent was that souffle on the bistro side? Shame the pastry chef is leaving end of the month.
I thought The Capital deserve to have both it’s stars deleted. I had a terrible lunch there but their chef Eric Chavot left in summer, so being stripped of it’s stars was no surprise. Same with Foliage (which I dearly miss). I think Chavot is looking for a west London site for a bistro, so that’s something to look forward to this year. Ditto Bruno Loubet, set to open at The Zetter, not far from Eastside Inn incidentally. Happy eating!
“Britains Gastromnomic Crown ” , which would be where exactly? You have 4, 3star Michelin restaurants in a nation/cult with a population of over 64 million . Such an achievement , congrats to all involved . Now I know you lot like to exalt yourself but please get a grip , you have to be the biggest underachieving nation on the planet per capita , congratulations again!!