Latest Posts

  • L1003755
    French 4

    The Greenhouse Mayfair

    Amazingly this is my first trip to The Greenhouse. It is not a new restaurant, if my facts are right, has been around since 1977 under other auspices over the decade, until Marlon Abela purchased it in 2003. Abela retains ownership today, with Umu and The Square being the other jewels in Abela’s constellation of stars. Different head chefs have come and ...

    On June 19, 2017 / By
  • L1003421
    scrambledkang 1

    #scrambledkang: Turbot

    Alongside garoupa (and bluefin tuna…), I think of European turbot as the very top end of fish that money can buy. Glimmering white flesh that has just the right ratio of meaty to flaky. A clean flavour, yet imbued with ample gelatin all around its bones and fins to impart an ‘oceaniness’. The taste of the fish is just perfect, fully deserves ...

    On June 2, 2017 / By
  • L1002906
    scrambledkang 2

    #scrambledkang: Asparagus

    Here’s the follow-up to my first post on my home-cooking adventures, otherwise hashtagged #scrambledkang elsewhere. I thought it would make sense to do them one ingredient at a time (since it is how I do the procuring), and make each one a discreet project. In the season of abundance and colour where there is so much to choose from, there is one ...

    On June 1, 2017 / By
  • L1003144
    Modern Euro 4

    Hedone 2017

    Since last year’s visit, I have come to think of Hedone as a 2 star. I suspect I am not the first to think this. This meal in late Spring 2017 , my sixth in as many years it has been open, has served only to solidify my thoughts about this discreet restaurant in Chiswick. Since its reduction of covers in late ...

    On May 23, 2017 / By
  • Midsummer-3
    French 6

    Midsummer House, Cambridge

    Daniel Clifford has been knocking it out of the park on TV ever since his debut on the Great British Menu in 2009, displaying a firm gasp of classic cooking with a touch of modernist creativity and above all, this guy seems a genuine lad, cooking with his heart on his sleeve. That chicken and corn dish still looks so amazing on ...

    On May 19, 2017 / By
  • DamedePic-3
    French 1

    La Dame de Pic London

    I have it on good account that this is not a mere carbon copy of the great Chef’s Parisian offshoot, also called Dame de Pic near the Louvre, rather it is the more ambitious of the twins. The great chef is of course Anne-Sophie Pic, she inherits a gastronomic dynasty so to speak with a long standing association with the bib, that ...

    On May 10, 2017 / By
  • TheSquare-9
    French 6

    The Square 2017, Yu Sugimoto & Team

    Phil Howard is a tough act to follow, probably the toughest, especially in today’s London but that is what the new owners of The Square have set on themselves. After more or less a year post-Phil Howard (now settling quite comfortably into his new digs), I thought to finally make the visit to the new Square. Mainly after seeing Kian‘s pictures of ...

    On May 3, 2017 / By
  • Neigedete-9
    French 2

    Neige d’Ete, Paris – Feb 2017

    Other visits: June 2016 I was doubly impressed on my return visit to this much-loved one star restaurant situated in the Paris left bank, confirming the good things that are happening in Hideki Nishi’s kitchen today. We had visited for a weekday lunch, and requested their full dinner taster menu, in advanced, to which the restaurant were happy to lay on for ...

    On April 25, 2017 / By