Latest Posts

  • Craft-1
    British 2

    Craft London Test Kitchen Tuesday

    My first visit to Dock Kitchen was back in 2009, originally a pop-up that spun out from he and Joseph Trivelli’s (River Cafe head chef) Moveable Kitchen project. He was fresh off his River Cafe stint and was an early adopter of pop-ups, after MML, when it was still a novel thing in those days. He’s always cooked with freedom and personality ...

    On April 19, 2016 / By
  • L1004081
    British 1

    Parlour Chef’s Table

    In 2014 I wrote about Jesse Dunford Wood’s fabulous Northwest London not quite a pub, not quite a restaurant which does remarkable porkchops, fantastic chilli arctic rolls and is one of the happiest places on Earth. It is quite rare to come across someone so full of life, he and his food just make people smile. Behind his conviviality lies some proper ...

    On April 14, 2016 / By
  • Marianne-1-2
    Modern Euro 1

    Marianne

    I do not usually get sentimental about forgetting to write up certain restaurants, but I have always felt guilty having never made space in my tiny corner of the internet for this lilliputian gem. You could say this entry is two years in the making, almost exactly to the day between the visits. This also says something about Marianne Lumb’s food, that ...

    On April 11, 2016 / By
  • Piquet-2
    French 0

    Piquet

    The last time I savoured the most decorous pithevier in London was at Bistrot de Luxe. Slicing down the middle of the pie revealed a hot foie gras centre positioned in the bosom of juicily pink red-leg partridge. It gave me the biggest of hugs during the deep winter of 2009. Even though Allan Pickett had already moved to the Aviator by ...

    On April 7, 2016 / By
  • Arpege-1
    French 4

    L’Arpège, Paris

    I did wonder what words I could add to the millions already provided in better prose by better minds across the web. However such is the dream of eating Alain Passard cuisine that perhaps a couple thousand more wouldn’t hurt in this milestone year. The rotisserie master will turn 60 on 4th August this year, though he remains spritely as spring chicken ...

    On April 4, 2016 / By
  • Taka-4
    Favourites 0

    Takahashi

    APRIL UPDATE: On 2nd visit, I tried more of his vegetables, sheer brilliance. His miso black cod is legit as well. It is a lighter marinade than at Nobu, served with pickled rhubarbs, the fish is flaky, oily and shimmers in the light. Stunner. I have a soft spot for independent outfits and have been in secret mourning ever since the Takagis ...

    On March 29, 2016 / By
  • Pittcue-1
    American 2

    Pitt Cue 2.0

    I can’t remember when I was first at Pitt Cue’s southbank truck (searching my own twitter feed the conventional way is a near impossible task), but I do remember Jamie Berger introducing me to picklebacks – shooting whiskeys and chasing it with the briny pickleback juice. I think I had the pulled pork with baked beans (hence the search) which Tom Adams ...

    On March 28, 2016 / By
  • Sosharu-17
    Japanese 4

    Sosharu

    This is the next in Jason’s ever growing Social empire that spans six cities, and is his seventh restaurant in London. I’m an Atherton fan, followed Jason since Maze days (been to all but City Social) and think his London restaurants are great. I don’t know what his books look like, but all this expansion (and superb interior design) must mean it ...

    On March 21, 2016 / By
  • Sartoria-1
    Italian 1

    Sartoria

    After 8 years at L’Anima, Francesco Mazzei left his much loved Soul in the city, to join up with the monster D&D group to reboot Sartoria in December last year. The aptly named restaurant located in Savile Row has been totally re-upholstered with thick carpets, lots of soft corners to reflect the famous tailoring address. Designer David d’Almada was enlisted for the ...

    On March 16, 2016 / By
  • Palomar-1
    Mediterranean 1

    The Palomar

    The Palomar are coming up to their two year anniversary in May and I imagine the owners must be over the moon with their success thus far. They have amassed heaps of glowing praise, sweeping a number of ‘best of’ awards and sniping an empty seat at their 16 seat kitchen bar is a rare success during peak times. It is the ...

    On March 10, 2016 / By
  • Bonhams-18
    Favourites 0

    Bonhams Restaurant March 2016

    My brother was in town last week for Natsuki’s excellent Hoxcup pop-up and for this trip, I was keen for him to also try Bonhams, which for me, is most exciting restaurant in London today. Since my last visit in November, the restaurant has grown its kitchen team from 3 to 5. Still a small crew but it gives head chef Tom ...

    On March 7, 2016 / By
  • Baccano-4
    Italian 2

    Rome : Roscioli + Baccano

    I just love Roman cuisine. The simplicity, the richness and pecorino romano. The first time I had cacio e pepe (literally cheese and pepper), it required a taste re-orientation because of the sheer amount of pecorino that goes into the sauce. You’re completely engulfed in the pungent and sharp characteristics of the cheese. And then there’s the pizza al taglio, sold by ...

    On March 4, 2016 / By
  • newman arms-3
    British 0

    The Cornwall Project at Newman Arms

    This will be Matt Chatfield’s sixth year since he started bringing together a handful of Cornish producers to supply the London restaurant market, as well as taking over three pubs (this one, The Three Crowns and The Adam & Eve) in London as means to open up a steady stream of orders for those suppliers. It is a brilliant idea and is ...

    On February 18, 2016 / By
  • Frenchie Covent Garden
    French 0

    Frenchie Covent Garden

    Happy Chinese New Year! This year I would like to wish you 猴年大吉, 招财进宝, 和气生财, 恭喜发财. — The Frenchie has arrived in London, or more precisely, the Frenchie is back in London. He spent nearly a decade of his formative chef years cooking at The Savoy Grill, Mandarin Oriental and became head chef of Fifteen, where – as gastronomic folklore has it ...

    On February 8, 2016 / By
  • Goring-1
    British 0

    The Goring Dining Room

    The hotel was opened in 1910 by Otto R Goring and remains a family business today, itself a rarity. Situated just a stones’ throw from Buckingham Palace, it has a long association with the Royal family (and a royal warrant since 2013), Queen mum who was a regular, according to folklore, had particular affection for the food. The kitchen has kept Eggs ...

    On January 27, 2016 / By
  • The Ninth-1
    Favourites 0

    The Ninth

    March 2016 Update: I have visited The Ninth another 4 times, and this is quickly becoming one of my favourite restaurants this year. The cooking is assured, and the menu is well-priced, especially during lunch. Some more pictures over on my instagram -> Flamed mackerel, Salt beef cheeks, Stuffed quail. —- Original post from 20 Jan 2016. This is Jun Tanaka’s first ...

    On January 20, 2016 / By
  • Pintxos-1
    Spanish 1

    Pintxos in San Sebastian

    There must be hundreds of pintxos bar found in Parte Vieja, the Old Town of San Sebastian. Pintxos are so much more than bar snacks, otherwise known as cocina en miniatura. I think it’s where Basque cuisine is actually being advanced. We didn’t have a bum snack, every thing we ate was brilliant. The standard of competition is really high. Beyond the ...

    On January 18, 2016 / By
  • Akelare-1
    Spanish 0

    Akelaŕe, San Sebastián

    Pedro Subijana was going to become a doctor but for reasons not known to the interwebs, he aborted his plans to study medicine and enrolled with the Madrid Hospitality School instead. A decision that would reward him greatly. He started his career in a local asador before joining the kitchens of a Pelota club in the nearby town of Hernani. From there, ...

    On January 8, 2016 / By