Latest Posts

  • L1000933
    British 2

    The Crown Burchetts Green: Voyage de la Mer

    Other meals: Feb 2017, Jan 2017, Oct 2016 This would be my fourth pilgrimage to Chez Bonwick’s superb one man band, and for this meal, I kindly asked if he could make us an all-seafood Choisi menu. Seafood is close to my heart as I am sure it is yours too, and I was delighted that he did, creating a Fine Voyage ...

    On March 21, 2017 / By
  • JCochran-3
    British 0

    James Cochran EC3

    Be wary of the giant mound of coats on the sturdy single rack at the reception of the restaurant… there’s no system, they chuck yours in the pile willy nilly. While this made for an interesting treasure hunt scenario at the end of my lunch, I did also feel an odd invasion of privacy when invited to rummage for my own coat. ...

    On March 17, 2017 / By
  • untitled-79
    British 0

    The Sportsman, Seasalter 2017

    It’s been well over 4 years since I was last here, and I can never get over just how serenely perfect the location is. I wonder if these these huts behind the Sportsman can be rented. It would be nice to take forty winks in one of them after a long lunch. Today the self-proclaimed ‘grotty rundown pub by the sea‘ looks ...

    On March 14, 2017 / By
  • Ledbury2017-3
    British 2

    The Ledbury – February 2017

    I wasn’t going to write about this beloved restaurant so soon after last summer’s post, but I was so impressed by this meal (and also given winter mise en place) that I thought it was worth putting the pictures and notes up. We did not eat game (that being one of our dietary requests), even though I would have liked to have ...

    On March 7, 2017 / By
  • Luca-3
    Italian 2

    Luca Restaurant

    When The Clove Club boys proclaimed their next project to be ‘Britalian’, I thought for certain that we would see the return of Gio Ravelli to the fold. I know a lot has happened in the social twebz in the last five years, but surely you remember the good old days when the Swiss-Italian (Swiitalian stallion?) was cooking up a storm for ...

    On March 3, 2017 / By
  • Hoppers-5
    Sri Lankan 4

    Hoppers London

    The runaway success of 2016, and for good reason, as I think this is one of those rare things that manages to live up to its hype. Hype being the operative word, as London’s restaurant bubble is today a completely trend-driven economy, based on New & Fresh, with all the trappings of fading as quickly as the rise. There is an advantage ...

    On February 24, 2017 / By
  • Extebarri-3
    One Michelin Star 9

    Asador Etxebarri, Axpe Spain

    Etxebarri is nothing more than a barbecue joint. Albeit a very good one, honing its repertoire over its 27 year history to become what some consider to be the best the World has ever seen. My own view is that this asador (or New house grill in full translation) symbolises the food culture in the Basque Country. And the Basques do know ...

    On February 10, 2017 / By
  • LAmbroisie-3
    French 8

    L’Ambroisie, Paris

    I was greeted casually by a silvering gentleman wearing a handsomely pressed gray suit, a slender fella with long arms hanging off his frame. Time has made a road map of this Frenchman’s face and turned his smartly groomed curls a shade of gunmetal grey, but I am certain that he is he; Pascal Vetaux, Directeur de Salle L’Ambroisie, est 1986. A ...

    On February 2, 2017 / By
  • CoworthPark-3
    British 3

    Restaurant Coworth Park, Ascot

    Gong xi fatt chai to you, dear reader, hope you had a good time ushering the new Lunar year of the Rooster over the weekend. We sure did by celebrating a CNY feast at this luxe getaway in Sunningdale in between Ascot and Berkshire. The centerpiece of this hotel retreat is a converted Georgian era manor house (as seen above) that dates ...

    On January 30, 2017 / By
  • MedlarJan2017-3
    French 4

    Medlar Jan 2017: Bresse chicken extravaganza

    Other meals: 2016 , 2015, 2011 Taking a cue from another loyal Medlarite, Kian, I went about organising a little off-menu extravanganza for five to cure our January ills and blues. What better way to do it than quality chicken (the best to some), and peak season melanosporum. David (O’Connor, co-owner of Medlar) put together a little menu for us, £80 for ...

    On January 26, 2017 / By
  • f4974652-8525-4e68-9a5a-9f1c9399df49-1.jpg
    French 1

    Restaurant Gordon Ramsay at 68 RHR

    This storied site has seen many gifted chefs pass through its doors over the years, starting with its previous guise as legendary La Tante Claire before Gordon Ramsay bought it from Pierre Koffmann in 1998. Aubergine transposed as it were, in all but name. Wareing, Askew, Sarge, Zazoni, Smyth – did I miss off any other talents who ran the pass for ...

    On January 24, 2017 / By
  • Koffmanns-7
    French 2

    Koffmann’s at Berkeley, until the next comeback…

    The word is the great Pierre Koffmann craves the stoves still, and is searching for another bricks and mortar to continue his Tante Claire revival. He shut the Berkeley reboot at the end of 2016, the reason apparently is to do with the hotel’s need to turn the space into a the hotel gym. In the mean time, the legendary Chef will ...

    On January 19, 2017 / By
  • CrownJan17-7
    French 5

    The Crown Burchetts Green – Jan 17

    MAR17 NOTE: Prices have gone up by quite some margin since I visited. Best to call ahead to check, especially if you want to do the Menu Choisi. Other meals: Feb 2017, Jan 2017, Oct 2016 My first visit to this brilliant family-run restaurant was The silver lining in 2016 and I could think of no better place to kick things off ...

    On January 13, 2017 / By
  • leffervescence-3-2
    French 0

    L’Effervescence, Tokyo

    Shinobu Namae really has carved a piece of serenity right in the heart of Tokyo; A pressure relief valve for those predisposed against this great and greatly hectic urban jungle. Judging by hypespacez’ series of blog posts across the years, this city garden has recently undergone a facelift to emerge as an ultra polished concrete fortress of zen. The interior design is ...

    On January 10, 2017 / By
  • l1007865
    Best of 2016 9

    Best of 2016

    And that’s it. 2016. Done. To you, dear reader, who continue to read blogs in 2016, thank you very much. Have a jolly Christmas and New Years, eat and drink till you drop and see you in 2017. 16. Christian Parra Boudin Noir with spring vegetables at Six Portland Road (Review, May 2016) Small and beautiful situated in leafy Holland Park – ...

    On December 20, 2016 / By
  • Anglo-1
    British 0

    Anglo (Updated)

    2nd Visit – November 2016 (scroll down for 1st visit) I really enjoyed my second visit here, things have moved up and up. Nick Gilkinson tuned his FOH team like clockwork, meanwhile Mark Jarvis and Jack Cashmore are delivering their clean cooking with more precision, confidence and more complexity -fantastic ingredient pairings- whilst maintaining the simplicity. All this at an incredible price ...

    On December 19, 2016 / By
  • abysse-3
    French 1

    Abysse, Aoyama Tokyo

    I love Paris’ Japanese-run French restaurants (chiefly Neige d’ete), a melding of two heavyweight cuisines which seem perfect together. Both heavily codified, both with schools of gastronomy that seek a similar sort of perfection, in terms of product selection and cooking technique to draw out luxury in terms of soft texture and max taste. This cross pollination is something that people love; ...

    On December 14, 2016 / By
  • sushiya-3
    Japanese 0

    Sushiya, Ginza Tokyo

    Isn’t he just the minimalist. Sushi ya or Sushi house/restaurant (すし 家) is one which has built up a quite the following since it opened in 2012. The Itamae fronting this is Takao Ishiyama, barely 30, who has been widely lauded for his potential as the future of Ginza Edomae. His popularity is partly due to his 2 year stint with the ...

    On December 9, 2016 / By