Latest Posts

  • Salut-1
    Modern Euro 2

    Salut!

    After reading TO‘s five star review of this restaurant, I decided to venture out in search of something small and beautiful yet again, this time to North London. Islington as you know is already laden with gems. Great Italian, fantastic fish and chips, my favourite wine shop is here, awesome Chinese, rock & roll kebabs and you know I still think the ...

    On June 27, 2016 / By
  • Astrance-5
    French 2

    L’Astrance, Paris

    I gave it exactly 2 months and rang the moment the lines opened at 9am (over here). Table for 3, 1st Thursday of June, the year 2016. It is a tiny, tiny restaurant, 25 covers and nothing of the incredulous luxury of stereotypical three star temples. In fact there are many things about Astrance that is curiously dissimilar to its peers, it ...

    On June 21, 2016 / By
  • Neigedete-7
    French 0

    Neige d’été, Paris

    If you are romantic like me, then you also will appreciate the poetic nature of this restaurant’s being and start by asking what is Summer Snow? It could be unfinished haiku, but pay attention to the restaurant’s signage, not unlike Astrance, and you will see the outline of a flower emerge. To be precise, it is a white rose with a soft ...

    On June 13, 2016 / By
  • BlandfordComptoir-1
    Wine Bars 2

    Blandford Comptoir

    I first went to 28-50 in Fetter Lane 6 years ago and have since enjoyed returning to the Marlyebone and Maddox Street branches. I like the 75ml measures, the ever changing themes, eventually coravin for rarer things. I have always loved Paul Walsh’s food in those days (now with City Social and fully deserving his michelin star) and have always thought 28-50 ...

    On June 7, 2016 / By
  • Taka-2
    Japanese 0

    Taka by Sushi Saito, KL

    [ TL:DR Taka is good but Honten is obviously better. Saito san himself will be in KL for 1 day only in August this year. Best to call to check, if you want to catch him… ] What was once was part of the mystique of uncovering hidden gems in random basements in Ginza has today exploded on to social media’s global ...

    On June 3, 2016 / By
  • CambioDeTercio-1
    Spanish 1

    Cambio de Tercio May 2016

    Coming here is like coming home, my first visit was 2003 and predates my bloggero shindig, during which they were a group of two, Cambio de Tercio and Tendido Cero across the road. This is my longest relationship with any restaurant in London. I am a loyal kind and I enjoy (re)writing about them (as you have gathered if you read me) ...

    On May 31, 2016 / By
  • Yami-9
    Korean 0

    Yami New Malden

    We’ve settled down in sunny Worcester Park for 18 months now and really quite enjoy the proximity to New Malden. Having Seoul Plaza close by is convenient, we’ve switched from Thai jasmine (that’s our family preference) over to Korean rice which we think is pretty good. Not to mention the multitude of instant noodles, pretty sure we’ve gone through all the flavours. ...

    On May 27, 2016 / By
  • Umu-1
    Japanese 0

    Umu

    Some cook for a living, others live to cook and then there are the true craftsmen who work with their hearts and hands, molding their wares into expressions of their being. You may have read the several interviews of Yoshinori Ishii (perhaps also his own thoughts, well worth if you haven’t) across the webz and so you will know his love for ...

    On May 16, 2016 / By
  • Bonhams-9
    Modern Euro 0

    Bonhams May 2016

    As I completed the Opentable booking form for my fourth visit to this fabulous little offering inside the auction house, I made a special request for Dorset blues and turbot and the longest carte blanche menu Chef is able to cater. It is always a pleasure to eat Tom Kemble’s food, I am their biggest fan (I think) and it is exciting ...

    On May 14, 2016 / By
  • TheoRandall-1
    Italian 2

    Theo Randall

    Have you been following the news of River Cafe staying, moving, staying? Last I read they are staying and I am glad for it. It has never been cheap to eat there (at least in my lifetime) but I adore the room, Lord Rogers’ design is simply timeless and you eat the best of the season. Plans for their second restaurant (in ...

    On May 11, 2016 / By
  • TypingRoom-1
    Modern Euro 3

    Typing Room

    Looks like they oiled the parquet floors, got rid of the patterned wallpaper and brought in crispy marble table tops. Otherwise, the room is much the same, the theatre of the open kitchen is still impressive and I love the calming majesty in here. A little surreal as it wasn’t so long ago that this was Nuno’s temple in East London. Now ...

    On May 9, 2016 / By
  • SixPortlandRoad-1
    French 2

    Six Portland Road

    So it seems that the two original makers of Terroirs have stepped out on their own. Ed Wilson branched off to fully own Brawn outright and independently, so I can only assume that it leaves the Terroirs Group (itself backed by Narioo’s Caves de Pyrene) with its original WIlliam IV location, Soif and Toast. I’ve never had a bad meal or swill ...

    On May 4, 2016 / By
  • CloveClub-19
    British 1

    The Clove Club – Spring 2016

    There is functional elegance about this room, an honest grandeur, welcoming and tranquil like morning daisies. It doesn’t feel like 3 years since I was last here, but it has, long enough for their 2013 vintage of charcuterie to ripen for service. I have such fond memories of the Ten Bells days (Gio and Jarrod now on their own), I am certain ...

    On May 3, 2016 / By
  • Shikumen-13
    Chinese 1

    Shikumen Dim Sum

    MAY UPDATE: The blog post below was just from one meal, but unfortunately I do hear some bad feedback from my friends who went there. This restaurant appears to be inconsistent in their offering. I will update as I return but for now, don’t say I did not tell you so. — Are you also lamenting the quality of dim sum in ...

    On April 27, 2016 / By
  • Anglo-8
    British 0

    Anglo

    Bistronomy leads a very healthy life in the Here and Now of 2016. I add more to my Paris list every year (dying to try Le Servan, Abri) and I continue to marvel at all the wonderful new output of Portland, Lyle’s, Typing Room and Clove Club. I know you like this kind of thing too and so will be excited by ...

    On April 25, 2016 / By
  • BAM-3
    British 2

    B*A*M

    Black Axe Mangal doesn’t really do kebabs in the way Mission Chinese Food doesn’t actually do Chinese food. Danny Bowien’s phantasmal not-quite-a-restaurant moved into swish new digs in the Lower East Side (NYC) last year and really has come a long way from its Mission Street beginnings in San Francisco. There’s no doubt that BAM’s owner/chef Lee Tiernan shares more than a ...

    On April 21, 2016 / By
  • Craft-1
    British 2

    Craft London Test Kitchen Tuesday

    My first visit to Dock Kitchen was back in 2009, originally a pop-up that spun out from he and Joseph Trivelli’s (River Cafe head chef) Moveable Kitchen project. He was fresh off his River Cafe stint and was an early adopter of pop-ups, after MML, when it was still a novel thing in those days. He’s always cooked with freedom and personality ...

    On April 19, 2016 / By
  • L1004081
    British 1

    Parlour Chef’s Table

    In 2014 I wrote about Jesse Dunford Wood’s fabulous Northwest London not quite a pub, not quite a restaurant which does remarkable porkchops, fantastic chilli arctic rolls and is one of the happiest places on Earth. It is quite rare to come across someone so full of life, he and his food just make people smile. Behind his conviviality lies some proper ...

    On April 14, 2016 / By