Latest Posts

  • Koffmanns-7
    French 2

    Koffmann’s at Berkeley, until the next comeback…

    The word is the great Pierre Koffmann craves the stoves still, and is searching for another bricks and mortar to continue his Tante Claire revival. He closes his Berkeley reboot at the end of 2016 and apparently this is to do with the hotel’s need to turn the space into a the hotel gym. In the mean time, the legendary Chef will ...

    On January 19, 2017 / By
  • CrownJan17-7
    French 2

    The Crown Burchetts Green – Jan 17

    Other meals: Oct 2016 My first visit to this brilliant family-run restaurant was The silver lining in 2016 and I could think of no better place to kick things off in 2017 than a revisit. I’m glad to say that the second meal was even more enjoyable and stellar than the first. The fact that that Chef-Owner Simon Bonwick is the only ...

    On January 13, 2017 / By
  • leffervescence-3-2
    French 0

    L’Effervescence, Tokyo

    Shinobu Namae really has carved a piece of serenity right in the heart of Tokyo; A pressure relief valve for those predisposed against this great and greatly hectic urban jungle. Judging by hypespacez’ series of blog posts across the years, this city garden has recently undergone a facelift to emerge as an ultra polished concrete fortress of zen. The interior design is ...

    On January 10, 2017 / By
  • l1007865
    Best of 2016 9

    Best of 2016

    And that’s it. 2016. Done. To you, dear reader, who continue to read blogs in 2016, thank you very much. Have a jolly Christmas and New Years, eat and drink till you drop and see you in 2017. 16. Christian Parra Boudin Noir with spring vegetables at Six Portland Road (Review, May 2016) Small and beautiful situated in leafy Holland Park – ...

    On December 20, 2016 / By
  • Anglo-1
    British 0

    Anglo (Updated)

    2nd Visit – November 2016 (scroll down for 1st visit) I really enjoyed my second visit here, things have moved up and up. Nick Gilkinson tuned his FOH team like clockwork, meanwhile Mark Jarvis and Jack Cashmore are delivering their clean cooking with more precision, confidence and more complexity -fantastic ingredient pairings- whilst maintaining the simplicity. All this at an incredible price ...

    On December 19, 2016 / By
  • abysse-3
    French 1

    Abysse, Aoyama Tokyo

    I love Paris’ Japanese-run French restaurants (chiefly Neige d’ete), a melding of two heavyweight cuisines which seem perfect together. Both heavily codified, both with schools of gastronomy that seek a similar sort of perfection, in terms of product selection and cooking technique to draw out luxury in terms of soft texture and max taste. This cross pollination is something that people love; ...

    On December 14, 2016 / By
  • sushiya-3
    Japanese 0

    Sushiya, Ginza Tokyo

    Isn’t he just the minimalist. Sushi ya or Sushi house/restaurant (すし 家) is one which has built up a quite the following since it opened in 2012. The Itamae fronting this is Takao Ishiyama, barely 30, who has been widely lauded for his potential as the future of Ginza Edomae. His popularity is partly due to his 2 year stint with the ...

    On December 9, 2016 / By
  • sushiichikawa-3
    Japanese 1

    Sushi Ichikawa, Setagaya Tokyo

    Katsumi Ichikawa carries an interesting legacy, especially to Londoners, since you in the know, know him as apprentice to the great Mitsuhiro Araki. He worked for the sushi master for 4 years, including the year when Araki san won his 3 stars in 2011. Araki san would move his sushi ya, then located in the serene surburbia of Setagaya, to ultra-posh Ginza. ...

    On December 2, 2016 / By
  • hirayama-12
    Japanese 6

    Tokyo Wagyu Steak : Hirayama to Shima (and Kurogo)

    The next chapter in my quest for wagyu takes me back to Tokyo in the Fall of 2016, where colours are just beginning to show. This time round, I am in search of precision shimofuri and I am convinced I will find it between an Island 島 and a Mountain 山. From Nihombashi to Ginza. The Kevin Bacon that links Manabu Oshima ...

    On November 22, 2016 / By
  • tonta-3
    Japanese 1

    Tokyo Tonkatsu: Narikura x Tonta

    *DEC2017 Update : Narikura is bib gourmand in the 2017 Michelin guide for Tokyo. I caught up with my old boss in Tokyo last week and he told us about the Japanese fondness for shortening names. For instance the omnipresent corner shop Family Mart is locally referred to as Famima, Toshiba short for Tokyo Shibaura, Remote controller (rimoto kontorora) to rimokon and ...

    On November 18, 2016 / By
  • crownburchetts-14
    British 1

    The Crown Burchetts Green, Maidenhead

    Other meals: Jan 2017, Oct 2016 Not many places have its food fully attributed to a single Chef, at least not outside Japan, but here at The Crown, this is uniquely the case. Step forth Simon Bonwick, Chef and owner of this humble pub in Burchetts Green, Maidenhead. He works alone in his kitchen, with an oven, a grill (that sometimes works), ...

    On October 31, 2016 / By
  • gauthier2016-5
    French 3

    Gauthier Soho 2016

    The civility starts right at the door after you buzz in, the closed door means that someone will give you a warm welcome, much like guests into their own homes. I used to frequent here a lot, have had wonderful meals and it has a special place in my heart. I haven’t been back in a couple of years, the reason most ...

    On October 28, 2016 / By
  • l1009126
    Modern Euro 0

    Bonhams Restaurant Oct 2016

    Other meals at Bonhams : Oct 16 , Sept 16 , June 16 , May16 , Mar16 , Dec15 , Oct15 I head back to Bonhams on a monthly basis now and this being my 12th visit. Bonhams is my firm favourite in London. One of the things I love about this place is the seasonality. Flip back to my old posts, ...

    On October 24, 2016 / By
  • petrus-1
    French 0

    Petrus London 2016

    My view of Big Sweary has softened, desensitised even, though it perhaps is because this styled TV persona has also mellowed over time. Cuddly Sweary now appearas to be the new Gordon Ramsay across the Atlantic. Every now and again when he shows flashes of his previous life in the kitchen, such as his lobster shelling demo on US masterchef, I’m reminded ...

    On October 17, 2016 / By
  • les110-3
    French 4

    Les 110 de Taillevent London (Updated)

    24OCT16 UPDATE: I visited a 2nd time for dinner, and yes, love this brasserie. Classic and fantastic value for money considering the kitchen’s ability. For 2nd meal, scroll past the initial review for notes and pictures. Taillevent is a revered institution in Paris opened by André Vrinat in 1946. It achieved 3 star status in 1973 and held on to them until ...

    On October 10, 2016 / By
  • hdr-1
    British 2

    Holborn Dining Room

    I remain a fan of our grand cafes in town, chiefly the Corbin & King stalwarts of Wolseley and its unbeatably reasonable cousin that is Brasserie Zedel. HDR’s lustrous retro galore is of a similar mould, albeit with a classic cuisine that’s closer to home than Vienna. And it is a massive restaurant that must take at least 100 covers (at a ...

    On October 6, 2016 / By
  • l1008673
    British 2

    Elystan Street

    I was left in a mini state of shock when I heard that he decided to sell The Square this year. Whilst I cannot claim to have eaten enough meals there to be a regular, I remain quite a fan of the great chef. Half of me understood it as a man who deserved a rewarding break after 25 years at the ...

    On September 26, 2016 / By
  • bonhamssept16-2
    Modern Euro 2

    Bonhams Restaurant Sept 2016

    Other meals at Bonhams : Oct 16 , Sept 16 , June 16 , May16 , Mar16 , Dec15 , Oct15 The guys are fresh from their summer break, fully recharged to tackle the new season. Becky (you are missed!) left earlier this year to tend to family and so Amy Boden (ex-Bibo, Pollen St, Square) steps in as Bonhams’ new restaurant ...

    On September 19, 2016 / By