Latest Posts

  • Hoppers-5
    Sri Lankan 3

    Hoppers London

    The runaway success of 2016, and for good reason, as I think this is one of those rare things that manages to live up to its hype. Hype being the operative word, as London’s restaurant bubble is today a completely trend-driven economy, based on New & Fresh, with all the trappings of fading as quickly as the rise. There is an advantage ...

    On February 24, 2017 / By
  • Extebarri-3
    One Michelin Star 9

    Asador Etxebarri, Axpe Spain

    Etxebarri is nothing more than a barbecue joint. Albeit a very good one, honing its repertoire over its 27 year history to become what some consider to be the best the World has ever seen. My own view is that this asador (or New house grill in full translation) symbolises the food culture in the Basque Country. And the Basques do know ...

    On February 10, 2017 / By
  • LAmbroisie-3
    French 7

    L’Ambroisie, Paris

    I was greeted casually by a silvering gentleman wearing a handsomely pressed gray suit, a slender fella with long arms hanging off his frame. Time has made a road map of this Frenchman’s face and turned his smartly groomed curls a shade of gunmetal grey, but I am certain that he is he; Pascal Vetaux, Directeur de Salle L’Ambroisie, est 1986. A ...

    On February 2, 2017 / By
  • CoworthPark-3
    British 3

    Restaurant Coworth Park, Ascot

    Gong xi fatt chai to you, dear reader, hope you had a good time ushering the new Lunar year of the Rooster over the weekend. We sure did by celebrating a CNY feast at this luxe getaway in Sunningdale in between Ascot and Berkshire. The centerpiece of this hotel retreat is a converted Georgian era manor house (as seen above) that dates ...

    On January 30, 2017 / By
  • MedlarJan2017-3
    French 4

    Medlar Jan 2017: Bresse chicken extravaganza

    Other meals: 2016 , 2015, 2011 Taking a cue from another loyal Medlarite, Kian, I went about organising a little off-menu extravanganza for five to cure our January ills and blues. What better way to do it than quality chicken (the best to some), and peak season melanosporum. David (O’Connor, co-owner of Medlar) put together a little menu for us, £80 for ...

    On January 26, 2017 / By
  • f4974652-8525-4e68-9a5a-9f1c9399df49-1.jpg
    French 1

    Restaurant Gordon Ramsay at 68 RHR

    This storied site has seen many gifted chefs pass through its doors over the years, starting with its previous guise as legendary La Tante Claire before Gordon Ramsay bought it from Pierre Koffmann in 1998. Aubergine transposed as it were, in all but name. Wareing, Askew, Sarge, Zazoni, Smyth – did I miss off any other talents who ran the pass for ...

    On January 24, 2017 / By
  • Koffmanns-7
    French 2

    Koffmann’s at Berkeley, until the next comeback…

    The word is the great Pierre Koffmann craves the stoves still, and is searching for another bricks and mortar to continue his Tante Claire revival. He shut the Berkeley reboot at the end of 2016, the reason apparently is to do with the hotel’s need to turn the space into a the hotel gym. In the mean time, the legendary Chef will ...

    On January 19, 2017 / By
  • CrownJan17-7
    French 2

    The Crown Burchetts Green – Jan 17

    Other meals: Oct 2016 My first visit to this brilliant family-run restaurant was The silver lining in 2016 and I could think of no better place to kick things off in 2017 than a revisit. I’m glad to say that the second meal was even more enjoyable and stellar than the first. The fact that Chef-Owner Simon Bonwick is the only man ...

    On January 13, 2017 / By
  • leffervescence-3-2
    French 0

    L’Effervescence, Tokyo

    Shinobu Namae really has carved a piece of serenity right in the heart of Tokyo; A pressure relief valve for those predisposed against this great and greatly hectic urban jungle. Judging by hypespacez’ series of blog posts across the years, this city garden has recently undergone a facelift to emerge as an ultra polished concrete fortress of zen. The interior design is ...

    On January 10, 2017 / By
  • l1007865
    Best of 2016 9

    Best of 2016

    And that’s it. 2016. Done. To you, dear reader, who continue to read blogs in 2016, thank you very much. Have a jolly Christmas and New Years, eat and drink till you drop and see you in 2017. 16. Christian Parra Boudin Noir with spring vegetables at Six Portland Road (Review, May 2016) Small and beautiful situated in leafy Holland Park – ...

    On December 20, 2016 / By
  • Anglo-1
    British 0

    Anglo (Updated)

    2nd Visit – November 2016 (scroll down for 1st visit) I really enjoyed my second visit here, things have moved up and up. Nick Gilkinson tuned his FOH team like clockwork, meanwhile Mark Jarvis and Jack Cashmore are delivering their clean cooking with more precision, confidence and more complexity -fantastic ingredient pairings- whilst maintaining the simplicity. All this at an incredible price ...

    On December 19, 2016 / By
  • abysse-3
    French 1

    Abysse, Aoyama Tokyo

    I love Paris’ Japanese-run French restaurants (chiefly Neige d’ete), a melding of two heavyweight cuisines which seem perfect together. Both heavily codified, both with schools of gastronomy that seek a similar sort of perfection, in terms of product selection and cooking technique to draw out luxury in terms of soft texture and max taste. This cross pollination is something that people love; ...

    On December 14, 2016 / By
  • sushiya-3
    Japanese 0

    Sushiya, Ginza Tokyo

    Isn’t he just the minimalist. Sushi ya or Sushi house/restaurant (すし 家) is one which has built up a quite the following since it opened in 2012. The Itamae fronting this is Takao Ishiyama, barely 30, who has been widely lauded for his potential as the future of Ginza Edomae. His popularity is partly due to his 2 year stint with the ...

    On December 9, 2016 / By
  • sushiichikawa-3
    Japanese 1

    Sushi Ichikawa, Setagaya Tokyo

    Katsumi Ichikawa carries an interesting legacy, especially to Londoners, since you in the know, know him as apprentice to the great Mitsuhiro Araki. He worked for the sushi master for 4 years, including the year when Araki san won his 3 stars in 2011. Araki san would move his sushi ya, then located in the serene surburbia of Setagaya, to ultra-posh Ginza. ...

    On December 2, 2016 / By
  • hirayama-12
    Japanese 6

    Tokyo Wagyu Steak : Hirayama to Shima (and Kurogo)

    The next chapter in my quest for wagyu takes me back to Tokyo in the Fall of 2016, where colours are just beginning to show. This time round, I am in search of precision shimofuri and I am convinced I will find it between an Island 島 and a Mountain 山. From Nihombashi to Ginza. The Kevin Bacon that links Manabu Oshima ...

    On November 22, 2016 / By
  • tonta-3
    Japanese 1

    Tokyo Tonkatsu: Narikura x Tonta

    *DEC2017 Update : Narikura is bib gourmand in the 2017 Michelin guide for Tokyo. I caught up with my old boss in Tokyo last week and he told us about the Japanese fondness for shortening names. For instance the omnipresent corner shop Family Mart is locally referred to as Famima, Toshiba short for Tokyo Shibaura, Remote controller (rimoto kontorora) to rimokon and ...

    On November 18, 2016 / By
  • crownburchetts-14
    British 1

    The Crown Burchetts Green, Maidenhead

    Other meals: Jan 2017, Oct 2016 Not many places have its food fully attributed to a single Chef, at least not outside Japan, but here at The Crown, this is uniquely the case. Step forth Simon Bonwick, Chef and owner of this humble pub in Burchetts Green, Maidenhead. He works alone in his kitchen, with an oven, a grill (that sometimes works), ...

    On October 31, 2016 / By
  • gauthier2016-5
    French 3

    Gauthier Soho 2016

    The civility starts right at the door after you buzz in, the closed door means that someone will give you a warm welcome, much like guests into their own homes. I used to frequent here a lot, have had wonderful meals and it has a special place in my heart. I haven’t been back in a couple of years, the reason most ...

    On October 28, 2016 / By