Latest Posts

  • Umu-1
    Japanese 0

    Umu

    Some cook for a living, others live to cook and then there are the true craftsmen who work with their hearts and hands, molding their wares into expressions of their being. You may have read the several interviews of Yoshinori Ishii (perhaps also his own thoughts, well worth if you haven’t) across the webz and so you will know his love for ...

    On May 16, 2016 / By
  • Bonhams-9
    Modern Euro 0

    Bonhams May 2016

    As I completed the Opentable booking form for my fourth visit to this fabulous little offering inside the auction house, I made a special request for Dorset blues and turbot and the longest carte blanche menu Chef is able to cater. It is always a pleasure to eat Tom Kemble’s food, I am their biggest fan (I think) and it is exciting ...

    On May 14, 2016 / By
  • TheoRandall-1
    Italian 2

    Theo Randall

    Have you been following the news of River Cafe staying, moving, staying? Last I read they are staying and I am glad for it. It has never been cheap to eat there (at least in my lifetime) but I adore the room, Lord Rogers’ design is simply timeless and you eat the best of the season. Plans for their second restaurant (in ...

    On May 11, 2016 / By
  • TypingRoom-1
    Modern Euro 3

    Typing Room

    Looks like they oiled the parquet floors, got rid of the patterned wallpaper and brought in crispy marble table tops. Otherwise, the room is much the same, the theatre of the open kitchen is still impressive and I love the calming majesty in here. A little surreal as it wasn’t so long ago that this was Nuno’s temple in East London. Now ...

    On May 9, 2016 / By
  • SixPortlandRoad-1
    French 2

    Six Portland Road

    So it seems that the two original makers of Terroirs have stepped out on their own. Ed Wilson branched off to fully own Brawn outright and independently, so I can only assume that it leaves the Terroirs Group (itself backed by Narioo’s Caves de Pyrene) with its original WIlliam IV location, Soif and Toast. I’ve never had a bad meal or swill ...

    On May 4, 2016 / By
  • CloveClub-19
    British 1

    The Clove Club – Spring 2016

    There is functional elegance about this room, an honest grandeur, welcoming and tranquil like morning daisies. It doesn’t feel like 3 years since I was last here, but it has, long enough for their 2013 vintage of charcuterie to ripen for service. I have such fond memories of the Ten Bells days (Gio and Jarrod now on their own), I am certain ...

    On May 3, 2016 / By
  • Shikumen-13
    Chinese 1

    Shikumen Dim Sum

    MAY UPDATE: The blog post below was just from one meal, but unfortunately I do hear some bad feedback from my friends who went there. This restaurant appears to be inconsistent in their offering. I will update as I return but for now, don’t say I did not tell you so. — Are you also lamenting the quality of dim sum in ...

    On April 27, 2016 / By
  • Anglo-8
    British 0

    Anglo

    Bistronomy leads a very healthy life in the Here and Now of 2016. I add more to my Paris list every year (dying to try Le Servan, Abri) and I continue to marvel at all the wonderful new output of Portland, Lyle’s, Typing Room and Clove Club. I know you like this kind of thing too and so will be excited by ...

    On April 25, 2016 / By
  • BAM-3
    British 0

    B*A*M

    Black Axe Mangal doesn’t really do kebabs in the way Mission Chinese Food doesn’t actually do Chinese food. Danny Bowien’s phantasmal not-quite-a-restaurant moved into swish new digs in the Lower East Side (NYC) last year and really has come a long way from its Mission Street beginnings in San Francisco. There’s no doubt that BAM’s owner/chef Lee Tiernan shares more than a ...

    On April 21, 2016 / By
  • Craft-1
    British 2

    Craft London Test Kitchen Tuesday

    My first visit to Dock Kitchen was back in 2009, originally a pop-up that spun out from he and Joseph Trivelli’s (River Cafe head chef) Moveable Kitchen project. He was fresh off his River Cafe stint and was an early adopter of pop-ups, after MML, when it was still a novel thing in those days. He’s always cooked with freedom and personality ...

    On April 19, 2016 / By
  • L1004081
    British 1

    Parlour Chef’s Table

    In 2014 I wrote about Jesse Dunford Wood’s fabulous Northwest London not quite a pub, not quite a restaurant which does remarkable porkchops, fantastic chilli arctic rolls and is one of the happiest places on Earth. It is quite rare to come across someone so full of life, he and his food just make people smile. Behind his conviviality lies some proper ...

    On April 14, 2016 / By
  • Marianne-1-2
    Modern Euro 1

    Marianne

    I do not usually get sentimental about forgetting to write up certain restaurants, but I have always felt guilty having never made space in my tiny corner of the internet for this lilliputian gem. You could say this entry is two years in the making, almost exactly to the day between the visits. This also says something about Marianne Lumb’s food, that ...

    On April 11, 2016 / By
  • Piquet-2
    French 0

    Piquet

    The last time I savoured the most decorous pithevier in London was at Bistrot de Luxe. Slicing down the middle of the pie revealed a hot foie gras centre positioned in the bosom of juicily pink red-leg partridge. It gave me the biggest of hugs during the deep winter of 2009. Even though Allan Pickett had already moved to the Aviator by ...

    On April 7, 2016 / By
  • Arpege-1
    French 6

    L’Arpège, Paris

    I did wonder what words I could add to the millions already provided in better prose by better minds across the web. However such is the dream of eating Alain Passard cuisine that perhaps a couple thousand more wouldn’t hurt in this milestone year. The rotisserie master will turn 60 on 4th August this year, though he remains spritely as spring chicken ...

    On April 4, 2016 / By
  • Taka-4
    Japanese 0

    Takahashi

    APRIL UPDATE: On 2nd visit, I tried more of his vegetables, sheer brilliance. His miso black cod is legit as well. It is a lighter marinade than at Nobu, served with pickled rhubarbs, the fish is flaky, oily and shimmers in the light. Stunner. I have a soft spot for independent outfits and have been in secret mourning ever since the Takagis ...

    On March 29, 2016 / By
  • Pittcue-1
    American 2

    Pitt Cue 2.0

    I can’t remember when I was first at Pitt Cue’s southbank truck (searching my own twitter feed the conventional way is a near impossible task), but I do remember Jamie Berger introducing me to picklebacks – shooting whiskeys and chasing it with the briny pickleback juice. I think I had the pulled pork with baked beans (hence the search) which Tom Adams ...

    On March 28, 2016 / By
  • Sosharu-17
    Japanese 4

    Sosharu

    This is the next in Jason’s ever growing Social empire that spans six cities, and is his seventh restaurant in London. I’m an Atherton fan, followed Jason since Maze days (been to all but City Social) and think his London restaurants are great. I don’t know what his books look like, but all this expansion (and superb interior design) must mean it ...

    On March 21, 2016 / By
  • Sartoria-1
    Italian 1

    Sartoria

    MAY 2016 UPDATE Saturday dinner, 1st week of May was not so successful. Great atmosphere however, but it seems Francesco is more patron than chef, even his front of house admit his appearance in Sartoria is a little random. This service was full, but kitchen seems unable to keep up. Some things were solid such as the beef tartare, but pastachijna was ...

    On March 16, 2016 / By