Latest Posts

  • Bonhams-9
    Modern Euro 0

    Bonhams May 2016

    Other meals at Bonhams : Oct 16 , Sept 16 , June 16 , May16 , Mar16 , Dec15 , Oct15 As I completed the Opentable booking form for my fourth visit to this fabulous little offering inside the auction house, I made a special request for Dorset blues and turbot and the longest carte blanche menu Chef is able to cater. ...

    On May 14, 2016 / By
  • TheoRandall-1
    Italian 2

    Theo Randall

    Have you been following the news of River Cafe staying, moving, staying? Last I read they are staying and I am glad for it. It has never been cheap to eat there (at least in my lifetime) but I adore the room, Lord Rogers’ design is simply timeless and you eat the best of the season. Plans for their second restaurant (in ...

    On May 11, 2016 / By
  • TypingRoom-1
    Modern Euro 3

    Typing Room

    Looks like they oiled the parquet floors, got rid of the patterned wallpaper and brought in crispy marble table tops. Otherwise, the room is much the same, the theatre of the open kitchen is still impressive and I love the calming majesty in here. A little surreal as it wasn’t so long ago that this was Nuno’s temple in East London. Now ...

    On May 9, 2016 / By
  • SixPortlandRoad-1
    French 2

    Six Portland Road

    So it seems that the two original makers of Terroirs have stepped out on their own. Ed Wilson branched off to fully own Brawn outright and independently, so I can only assume that it leaves the Terroirs Group (itself backed by Narioo’s Caves de Pyrene) with its original WIlliam IV location, Soif and Toast. I’ve never had a bad meal or swill ...

    On May 4, 2016 / By
  • CloveClub-19
    British 3

    The Clove Club – Spring 2016

    There is functional elegance about this room, an honest grandeur, welcoming and tranquil like morning daisies. It doesn’t feel like 3 years since I was last here, but it has, long enough for their 2013 vintage of charcuterie to ripen for service. I have such fond memories of the Ten Bells days (Gio and Jarrod now on their own), I am certain ...

    On May 3, 2016 / By
  • Shikumen-13
    Chinese 1

    Shikumen Dim Sum

    MAY UPDATE: The blog post below was just from one meal, but unfortunately I do hear some bad feedback from my friends who went there. This restaurant appears to be inconsistent in their offering. I will update as I return but for now, don’t say I did not tell you so. — Are you also lamenting the quality of dim sum in ...

    On April 27, 2016 / By
  • BAM-3
    British 2


    Black Axe Mangal doesn’t really do kebabs in the way Mission Chinese Food doesn’t actually do Chinese food. Danny Bowien’s phantasmal not-quite-a-restaurant moved into swish new digs in the Lower East Side (NYC) last year and really has come a long way from its Mission Street beginnings in San Francisco. There’s no doubt that BAM’s owner/chef Lee Tiernan shares more than a ...

    On April 21, 2016 / By
  • Craft-1
    British 2

    Craft London Test Kitchen Tuesday

    My first visit to Dock Kitchen was back in 2009, originally a pop-up that spun out from he and Joseph Trivelli’s (River Cafe head chef) Moveable Kitchen project. He was fresh off his River Cafe stint and was an early adopter of pop-ups, after MML, when it was still a novel thing in those days. He’s always cooked with freedom and personality ...

    On April 19, 2016 / By
  • L1004081
    British 1

    Parlour Chef’s Table

    In 2014 I wrote about Jesse Dunford Wood’s fabulous Northwest London not quite a pub, not quite a restaurant which does remarkable porkchops, fantastic chilli arctic rolls and is one of the happiest places on Earth. It is quite rare to come across someone so full of life, he and his food just make people smile. Behind his conviviality lies some proper ...

    On April 14, 2016 / By
  • Marianne-1-2
    Modern Euro 1


    I do not usually get sentimental about forgetting to write up certain restaurants, but I have always felt guilty having never made space in my tiny corner of the internet for this lilliputian gem. You could say this entry is two years in the making, almost exactly to the day between the visits. This also says something about Marianne Lumb’s food, that ...

    On April 11, 2016 / By
  • Piquet-2
    French 3


    The last time I savoured the most decorous pithevier in London was at Bistrot de Luxe. Slicing down the middle of the pie revealed a hot foie gras centre positioned in the bosom of juicily pink red-leg partridge. It gave me the biggest of hugs during the deep winter of 2009. Even though Allan Pickett had already moved to the Aviator by ...

    On April 7, 2016 / By
  • Arpege-1
    French 10

    L’Arpège, Paris

    I did wonder what words I could add to the millions already provided in better prose by better minds across the web. However such is the dream of eating Alain Passard cuisine that perhaps a couple thousand more wouldn’t hurt in this milestone year. The rotisserie master will turn 60 on 4th August this year, though he remains spritely as spring chicken ...

    On April 4, 2016 / By
  • Taka-4
    Japanese 1


    JUNE2016 UPDATE: 3rd visit, in-season Portuguese squid sliced into 3 very thin layers, stacked and nigiri. This is awesome. Katsuo tataki in tomato ponzu; and reflecting the season, house-made white peach ice cream with wakamomo. APRIL2016 UPDATE: On 2nd visit, I tried more of his vegetables, sheer brilliance. His miso black cod is legit as well. It is a lighter marinade than ...

    On March 29, 2016 / By
  • Pittcue-1
    American 2

    Pitt Cue 2.0

    I can’t remember when I was first at Pitt Cue’s southbank truck (searching my own twitter feed the conventional way is a near impossible task), but I do remember Jamie Berger introducing me to picklebacks – shooting whiskeys and chasing it with the briny pickleback juice. I think I had the pulled pork with baked beans (hence the search) which Tom Adams ...

    On March 28, 2016 / By
  • Sosharu-17
    Japanese 4


    This is the next in Jason’s ever growing Social empire that spans six cities, and is his seventh restaurant in London. I’m an Atherton fan, followed Jason since Maze days (been to all but City Social) and think his London restaurants are great. I don’t know what his books look like, but all this expansion (and superb interior design) must mean it ...

    On March 21, 2016 / By
  • Sartoria-1
    Italian 1


    MAY 2016 UPDATE Saturday dinner, 1st week of May was not so successful. Great atmosphere however, but it seems Francesco is more patron than chef, even his front of house admit his appearance in Sartoria is a little random. This service was full, but kitchen seems unable to keep up. Some things were solid such as the beef tartare, but pastachijna was ...

    On March 16, 2016 / By
  • Palomar-1
    Mediterranean 2

    The Palomar

    The Palomar are coming up to their two year anniversary in May and I imagine the owners must be over the moon with their success thus far. They have amassed heaps of glowing praise, sweeping a number of ‘best of’ awards and sniping an empty seat at their 16 seat kitchen bar is a rare success during peak times. It is the ...

    On March 10, 2016 / By
  • Bonhams-18
    Modern Euro 0

    Bonhams Restaurant March 2016

    Other meals at Bonhams : Oct 16 , Sept 16 , June 16 , May16 , Mar16 , Dec15 , Oct15 My brother was in town last week for Natsuki’s excellent Hoxcup pop-up and for this trip, I was keen for him to also try Bonhams, which for me, is most exciting restaurant in London today. Since my last visit in November, ...

    On March 7, 2016 / By