Latest Posts

  • Hoppers-5
    Sri Lankan 4

    Hoppers London

    The runaway success of 2016, and for good reason, as I think this is one of those rare things that manages to live up to its hype. Hype being the operative word, as London’s restaurant bubble is today a completely trend-driven economy, based on New & Fresh, with all the trappings of fading as quickly as the rise. There is an advantage ...

    On February 24, 2017 / By
  • Extebarri-3
    One Michelin Star 11

    Asador Etxebarri, Axpe Spain

    Etxebarri is nothing more than a barbecue joint. Albeit a very good one, honing its repertoire over its 27 year history to become what some consider to be the best the World has ever seen. My own view is that this asador (or New house grill in full translation) symbolises the food culture in the Basque Country. And the Basques do know ...

    On February 10, 2017 / By
  • LAmbroisie-3
    French 10

    L’Ambroisie, Paris

    I was greeted casually by a silvering gentleman wearing a handsomely pressed gray suit, a slender fella with long arms hanging off his frame. Time has made a road map of this Frenchman’s face and turned his smartly groomed curls a shade of gunmetal grey, but I am certain that he is he; Pascal Vetaux, Directeur de Salle L’Ambroisie, est 1986. A ...

    On February 2, 2017 / By
  • CoworthPark-3
    British 3

    Restaurant Coworth Park, Ascot

    Gong xi fatt chai to you, dear reader, hope you had a good time ushering the new Lunar year of the Rooster over the weekend. We sure did by celebrating a CNY feast at this luxe getaway in Sunningdale in between Ascot and Berkshire. The centerpiece of this hotel retreat is a converted Georgian era manor house (as seen above) that dates ...

    On January 30, 2017 / By
  • MedlarJan2017-3
    French 5

    Medlar Jan 2017: Bresse chicken extravaganza

    Other meals: 2016 , 2015, 2011 Taking a cue from another loyal Medlarite, Kian, I went about organising a little off-menu extravanganza for five to cure our January ills and blues. What better way to do it than quality chicken (the best to some), and peak season melanosporum. David (O’Connor, co-owner of Medlar) put together a little menu for us, £80 for ...

    On January 26, 2017 / By
  • f4974652-8525-4e68-9a5a-9f1c9399df49-1.jpg
    French 2

    Restaurant Gordon Ramsay at 68 RHR

    This storied site has seen many gifted chefs pass through its doors over the years, starting with its previous guise as legendary La Tante Claire before Gordon Ramsay bought it from Pierre Koffmann in 1998. Aubergine transposed as it were, in all but name. Wareing, Askew, Sarge, Zazoni, Smyth – did I miss off any other talents who ran the pass for ...

    On January 24, 2017 / By
  • Koffmanns-7
    French 2

    Koffmann’s at Berkeley, until the next comeback…

    The word is the great Pierre Koffmann craves the stoves still, and is searching for another bricks and mortar to continue his Tante Claire revival. He shut the Berkeley reboot at the end of 2016, the reason apparently is to do with the hotel’s need to turn the space into a the hotel gym. In the mean time, the legendary Chef will ...

    On January 19, 2017 / By
  • CrownJan17-7
    French 6

    The Crown Burchetts Green – Jan 17

    MAR17 NOTE: Prices have gone up by quite some margin since I visited. Best to call ahead to check, especially if you want to do the Menu Choisi. Other meals: Feb 2017, Jan 2017, Oct 2016 My first visit to this brilliant family-run restaurant was The silver lining in 2016 and I could think of no better place to kick things off ...

    On January 13, 2017 / By