Latest Posts

  • MountainSeaHouse-3
    Taiwanese 0

    Mountain and Sea House 山海樓, Taipei

    Phonetically, 山海 樓 is Shan-Hai Lou and if you say it like my better half does (because my grasp of the mother tongue is a whimsy), it is a beautiful thing rolling off the tongue. Much better than the awkwardly literal English translation. I love beautiful things and as you know when it comes to Gastronomy, it is often best appreciated in ...

    On April 19, 2017 / By
  • L1001572
    Modern Euro 0

    108 Garage

    It looks like the critics called this correctly. I’m certainly encouraged with the last couple of visits to new London tables, JC at EC3, BM at Perilla and now this. After years of trendy concepts, it looks like the market is maturing in 2017, with restaurateurs rolling out new projects that have more substance. The substance comes by way of Chris Denney, ...

    On March 28, 2017 / By
  • L1001423
    Modern Euro 2

    Perilla

    Here is the latest pop-up fairy tale of a promising young chef spreading his wings early in his career to own his own. Some would say a little too early, evidently not to his heavyweight backers who must think he’s ready. One of them is a certain Mr Howard, who would have been around the same age when he opened The Square ...

    On March 24, 2017 / By
  • L1000933
    British 3

    The Crown Burchetts Green: Voyage de la Mer

    Other meals: Feb 2017, Jan 2017, Oct 2016 This would be my fourth pilgrimage to Chez Bonwick’s merry one man band, and for this meal, I kindly asked if he could make us an all-seafood Choisi menu. Seafood is close to my heart as I am sure it is yours too, and I was delighted that he did, charting the course for ...

    On March 21, 2017 / By
  • JCochran-3
    British 0

    James Cochran EC3

    Be wary of the giant mound of coats on the sturdy single rack at the reception of the restaurant… there’s no system, they chuck yours in the pile willy nilly. While this made for an interesting treasure hunt scenario at the end of my lunch, I did also feel an odd invasion of privacy when invited to rummage for my own coat. ...

    On March 17, 2017 / By
  • untitled-79
    British 0

    The Sportsman, Seasalter 2017

    It’s been well over 4 years since I was last here, and I can never get over just how serenely perfect the location is. I wonder if these huts behind the Sportsman can be rented. It would be nice to take forty winks in one of them after a long lunch. Today the self-proclaimed ‘grotty rundown pub by the sea‘ looks a ...

    On March 14, 2017 / By
  • Ledbury2017-3
    British 3

    The Ledbury – February 2017

    I wasn’t going to write about this beloved restaurant so soon after last summer’s post, but I was so impressed by this meal (and also given winter mise en place) that I thought it was worth putting the pictures and notes up. We did not eat game (that being one of our dietary requests), even though I would have liked to have ...

    On March 7, 2017 / By
  • Luca-3
    Italian 2

    Luca Restaurant

    When The Clove Club boys proclaimed their next project to be ‘Britalian’, I thought for certain that we would see the return of Gio Ravelli to the fold. I know a lot has happened in the social twebz in the last five years, but surely you remember the good old days when the Swiss-Italian (Swiitalian stallion?) was cooking up a storm for ...

    On March 3, 2017 / By