Category: British

The Clove Club – Spring 2016

There is functional elegance about this room, an honest grandeur, welcoming and tranquil like morning daisies. It doesn’t feel like 3 years since I was last here, but it has, long enough for their 2013 vintage of charcuterie to ripen for service. I have such…

B*A*M

Black Axe Mangal doesn’t really do kebabs in the way Mission Chinese Food doesn’t actually do Chinese food. Danny Bowien’s phantasmal not-quite-a-restaurant moved into swish new digs in the Lower East Side (NYC) last year and really has come a long way from its Mission…

Craft London Test Kitchen Tuesday

My first visit to Dock Kitchen was back in 2009, originally a pop-up that spun out from he and Joseph Trivelli’s (River Cafe head chef) Moveable Kitchen project. He was fresh off his River Cafe stint and was an early adopter of pop-ups, after MML,…

Parlour Chef’s Table

In 2014 I wrote about Jesse Dunford Wood’s fabulous Northwest London not quite a pub, not quite a restaurant which does remarkable porkchops, fantastic chilli arctic rolls and is one of the happiest places on Earth. It is quite rare to come across someone so…

The Cornwall Project at Newman Arms

This will be Matt Chatfield’s sixth year since he started bringing together a handful of Cornish producers to supply the London restaurant market, as well as taking over three pubs (this one, The Three Crowns and The Adam & Eve) in London as means to…

The Goring Dining Room

The hotel was opened in 1910 by Otto R Goring and remains a family business today, itself a rarity. Situated just a stones’ throw from Buckingham Palace, it has a long association with the Royal family (and a royal warrant since 2013), Queen mum who…

The Perfectionists’ Café

I do like Terminal 2, it’s all shiny and expansive and Heston’s latest addition, gives me all the incentive to hunt for flights out from this terminal. I flew from this terminal twice this year and both times have had the opportunity to eat at…

Medlar 2015

Time to celebrate another year gone by, as it continues to make a map of my graying, grizzling, wrinkling face. I have two favourite restaurants in London that I make an effort to visit every so often. One is Cambio de Tercio – which I’ve…

Quality Chop House

I’m doing things in reverse which is sometimes a good thing. Some restaurants do dip in quality after the initial opening buzz dies down, but those that hang around do get better with sharper recipes and evolutionary innovation (Did I just write an oxymoron?). This…

Berners Tavern

I can’t believe it took me over a year, but from now on, I’m going to make it here every Friday. Look at the dining room; This is heaven. Forget C&K, McNally or Caring, because the once Le Protege has outdone them all. This has…

The Manor

The people behind perhaps the most exciting restaurant of 2013 have opened The Manor in late November this year, and along with the opening of The Delicatessen soon, these guys look set to take 2015 by storm. Actually, I still haven’t been to The Diary,…

Lyle’s

Yup, exactly like Marina said, this is baby St John, but maybe I’d go a bit further and say St John with Japanese influences. It probably comes as no surprise since James Lowe and John Ogier had cut their teeth at St John Bread & Wine.…