Latest Posts

  • Photography by Kang L
    American 16

    Spuntino: Three times, is really a charm.

    I would like to begin by publicly apologising to Russell Norman and his team, because on reflection, I think I was man-pmsing when I wrote the Polpetto review. I was out of line, and rude, and I hope I can be forgiven. Handslap. Most of you are already familiar with the famous bacaro in Soho that is Polpo, and many of you ...

    On March 20, 2011 / By
  • Photography by Kang L
    French 5

    Chabrot: London “Bistronomique”

    You can almost expect Audrey Tautou to waltz through the front door of this cosy restaurant; hang her coat, and whip her beret onto the coat rack. With Piaf marching on in the background, your eyes follow her every move, as she sits herself down on the round corner table for two (except she’s by herself), briefly re-arrange the silverware, and as ...

    On March 16, 2011 / By
  • Photography by Kang L
    American 12

    Maze Grill : Stonecold.

    Gordon Ramsay restaurants are entering the autumn of their lifecycles. Cycle being the keyword here, with many of his proteges, who used to run his restaurants during their heady years, moving on to bigger and better things. Originally a spin-off from the next-door small plate wonder that was Jason ...

    On March 10, 2011 / By
  • Photography by Kang L
    London Restaurant Reviews 18

    Nopi : Smooth Operator.

    What it must feel like to be Yotam Ottolenghi. Author of two likeable, innovative cook books; Owner of a string of likeable, innovative takeaway/café/restaurants, and the custodian of a weekly vegetarian column in Guardian. And women just love his food. There is something extremely likeable about the brand Yotam has created for himself. It’s like everything you imagined organic food – healthy, ...

    On March 7, 2011 / By
  • Photography by Kang L
    London Restaurant Reviews 3

    Bhan Thai : Slaying the weeping tiger.

    These days, people naturally assume I take all my meals outside the comfort of the home; which is technically untrue, since I do eat home-cooked food at least during half the week; it is just that I’m not the one doing the cooking. That’s why she’s the better half, you see. While our usual go-to pizza service is the rather decent Lupa ...

    On March 3, 2011 / By
  • Photography by Kang L
    Bars & Pubs 10

    Made in Camden : Katz it just right.

    March 2016: Josh Katz is now head chef at Berber & Q. Camden doesn’t lack restaurants in number, it’s just most aren’t worth the detour. But things are changing. On the surface, one wouldn’t think this bar-café located at a gig venue – serving the purpose of tanking up visitors before any given performance – should suffer the unfortunate scrutiny of a ...

    On February 28, 2011 / By
  • Photography by Kang L
    London Restaurant Reviews 15

    DINNER by King Heston and Prince Ashley.

    *Update Revisited on 10 July 2012 – I had the Salmagundi, a salad of chicken oysters, roast marrow, salsify with some kind of rich vinegar (I’m guessing). Hereford ribeye for mains, great concentrated flavour, and charring but not as good as say Goodman. Tipsy cake still tops, meatfruit still dazzled, surprisingly. ‘Standard’ chips offered as apparently we were told that they will ...

    On February 22, 2011 / By
  • Photography by Kang L
    British 9

    Byron Big D Feb’11 : Return of the Jedi

    If somehow you missed it the first time round in ’10, make sure you don’t miss it now. The patty is grounded Scotch chuck and is supplied and prepared fresh by Darragh O’Shea in his Knightsbridge shop. His Irish Angus steaks are – as you know – amongst my favourite choices for steak, and his Big D patty (which can also be ...

    On February 18, 2011 / By