I have never been to Denmark, with the way things are going with the rise and rise of Rene Redzepi, it looks like it will be a long while before I contemplate the Copenhagen trip. It doesn’t mean I’m not curious (obviously I am), you can already picture a Chinese guy perched over the dinner table, reluctant to eat anything till he has papped the dishes to death. All this sudden appreciation for Nordic food in the media is extraordinary. It’s still very new to us, for starters, Nordic cuisine is universally lumped together as an umbrella cuisine covering everything that includes Swedish, Icelandic, Danish, Norwegian. Honestly, I do not know the differences between the respective cuisines. It just seems a little weird that all the fervent attention on Nordic cuisine hasn’t translated to a more comprehensive coverage, it’s like lumping Chinese in with Japanese, Korean, Vietnamese, Thai and calling it Oriental. Then again definitions might be moot when observing the high end stuff because they hardly anything like the traditional cuisines they have sprung from. And it always looks good. Take for instance Maemo in Oslo – this stuff looks awesome, but nothing like what I ate when I spent some months in Haugesund, a coastal outpost of yatchs and rich kids awash with Norwegian oil money. What I ate was markedly unexotic. Crayfish, giant lobsters, sunflower seeds with
This will be my third visit to Eastside Inn, which is hands down my favourite restaurant in London. There is much fire in Bjorn van der Horst’s sauces. Though the restaurant’s history is short, it has undergone significant changes of late changing from a Restaurant-with-a-Bistro to a Bistro-with-a-lounge-bar. My love affair with ESI continues. Here we go again
Oh the sun, the sun. I spent most of last week in Norway, and happily returned to a gloriously sticky London on Friday, feeling utterly like a tourist in my very own city. There could be no better than now to loaf around in a restaurant designed for oysters slurping and scoffing seared slabs of beef. My first visit to a Mark Hix restaurant
The last time Bruno Loubet was cooking professionally in London, I was apparently on scene to try his much praise innovative yet traditionally grounded French cooking. On that occasion, he was a guest chef for Pierre Koffman’s superbly successful Selfridges pop-up, which in 2009, had critics and bloggers swooning more about the gravity of the occasion rather than for the quality of the cooking. On that night, Bruno Loubet’s signature dish on the Koffman menu was his take on the millefeuille, puff pastry elegantly layered with rich chocolate sauce and pear, a masterful lesson in French pudding. Naturally, we were spellbound with the output of a Loubet-led kitchen cooking Koffman recipes. I wondered then about the story behind Bruno Loubet, since his wasn’t a name I instantly recognised
One of the most memorable meals I had in 2009 was the newly opened Eastside Inn restaurant in Farringdon. The pride and joy of Bjorn van der Horst, formerly of La Noisette, the food was simply superb and cooking was of a high order. The major issues I had mainly was to do with the high prices, and also the rather boring dining space, however where I left it during my last visit was merely half the story. Half the story because the unique feature of Eastside Inn is that this establishment is in fact two eateries in one. One being the restaurant, and on the other side of the wall, the Bistro. Hooked on the haute cuisine rendition, I vowed to return to try the Bjorn’s concept of something a little less formal, and a little more regional
Every now and again, something new comes to town sets off waves of gushing remarks and generates so much intrigue among the eaterati that one cannot help but to buy into the word of mouth. We’re human afterall, and have a vested interest in witnessing a supposed second coming, or at least the next meteoric restaurant opening. After reading many a tall tale of Chef Bjorn van der Horst’s double whammy the Eastside Inn Bistro and Restaurant, I waited for the euphoria (three months?) to settle before finally making my own way to bear witness at the latest stuff of legends to grace the city
St John is currently the 14th best restaurant in the world (2009). Yes, ‘Worlds’. And I can confirm, they don’t use San Pellegrino. Apparently, the British can indeed cook. As usual, I am late to the party as it seems like the entire food writers guild has eaten here, wrote about it and then some. A darling of the food world, I wanted to know what exactly makes St John so special
The Fox and Anchor Official Site 115 Charterhouse Square EC1M 6AA 020 7250 1300 £20 pp of proper grub The smell of eggs and bacon fill the air as I inch closer to my lunch destination. Stumbling clumsily into the pub, The light from outside casted silhouettes on rising heads, as chatter dies down, just for a little while. I can confirm that the smell is coming from within and is now tinged with the heartiness of a roast. And then, I heard the intensifying click of heels against the dark wooden flooring as a demure beauty gently floated towards me: “For two?” said the Rose of the Estuary. “Yes.”