No doubt you’ve already heard about Ceviche, the first of a trio of Peruvian restaurants to open in London this year. Started by Martin Morales, Brit with half a Peruvian heritage, he gave up a notable music career (According to Xanthe, he signed KT Tursntall and launched iTunes in Europe!) to plug a gaping hole in the market. Which he reckons will be nicely filled with an introduction to raw seafood cold cooked in tiger’s milk.
Apart from the fusion dishes at Nobu, I’ve never eaten Peruvian food. This cuisine has always been written about as the next big thing (Monocle did a nice spread last year), partly given its unique history of diverse cultural influences, one can argue that Peruvian is a true expression of fusion food. Given the decades the Nobu restaurants have spent in the (international) limelight , Peru hasn’t really taken off as a must visit destination for gastro-tourist.
The cuisine’s foremost ambassador is Gastón Acurio. By wikipedia’s account, he is a bit of a legend in his native Peru. His name is attached to No.35 on the 2012 World Best 50 , but it diffuses down to a diverse portfolio of operations which include a hamburger bar, a Peruvian-Chinese restaurant, a hotel and even a ‘gastronomic’ university. I’m most intrigued by the mention of his roast chicken franchise, La Pollada. Might it come on British shores and threaten Nandos’ monopoly on the market? That’s for another blog post.
Where was I? Ah yes, The Morales tiger’s milk: an acidic marinade consisting of a closely guarded recipe centered around salt, lime and chilli. Poured over a variety of seafood, the concoction is the very soul of the ceviche. The ceviche in turn, according to Martin represents “Everything you need to know about Peruvian food is in it”.
Alianza Lima, £7.50
With one prawn, chopped squid, octopus, giant cholo corn, seabass (as the fish on that day), beansprouts, coriander.
So it’s like a sashimi salad. Personally, I felt like all the citrus killed the texture of the seabass. It just didn’t taste fresh. In fact it tasted like a soaked sponge. I was annoyed to have to share a single prawn with the missus. Does this imply that the plate is a single person portion?
The sensation of chewing on soggy raw fish wasn’t what I had hoped for. Could it have been doused with too much tiger’s milk? I had expected sharpness, freshness and vibrancy. Maybe like a freshly shucked oyster – seawater spewing all over my top – with lashings of freshly squeezed lemon and tabasco, but alas this wasn’t it. I thought the spice and zest of the tiger’s milk was interesting, but overall, the dish lacked excitement. It was muted. At £7.50, it’s not exactly cheap.
Granted it’s an unfair comparison given the Nobu’s high prices and use of premium ingredients, but really Nobu(s) is rather good with the Peruvian dishes. Ok, so my last visit to Berkeley was over 3 years ago, over 6 to Park Lane, but if you can afford it, Nobu is still a very dependable restaurant. I still hold the view that only Nobu restaurants can do justice to Black Cod Miso. Remember that dish? Oh man, nostalgia.
Anyway, I digress. I expected that Ceviche’s star billing to be at the very least addictive and fun. I really tried to like it, but I just didn’t.
Sakura Maru, £6.25
Salmon carpaccio, tiger’s milk with mirin, soyo, satsuma and what appears to be spring onion. AKA ‘new style’ salmon sashimi. The sauce tastes exactly like the Alianza Lima. It was ok.
I am reminded of the spicy sashimi salad at Sakura, Oxford Circus , usually a dinner-only item, which uses a variety of ‘discarded’ bits from sashimi / nigiri. Salmon, seabass, hamachi, thin prawn carpaccio, seaweed usually feature, and a spicy, zesty, fresh and vibrant sauce is poured over it. It’s very addictive (they’ve got a bit stingy with the spicy sauce over the years) but I had it a few weeks ago and it’s still very good as always. Not Peruvian obviously, but at £6 or thereabouts, it’s far superior as an experience of raw fish + spicy citrus sauce than this.
Given the generally positive reviews and Martin’s largely successful PR, I really, really tried to like it but I just couldn’t. Not to say there was anything particularly wrong with it, but I just felt like there are comparably better things to eat in London at similar price points.
Ensalda de Quinoa, £3.75
With white quinoa, tomatoes, avocado, butter beans, coriander and rocoto chilli vinaigrette. Ah! We really liked this dish. It was fresh, zesty, lively and everything I perceived Peruvian cuisine to be. And it was affordable.
Arroz con Pato, £11.50
Confit duck in coriander, dark beer rice with aji amarillo chilli.
For £11.50 …it’s more expensive that the tiny tapas plates at Copita. When this arrived, I thought ‘Opera Tavern! Salt Yard! Tapas!’ , and truthfully I didn’t expect it to shine.
We took our first forkful (no spoons provided) and we both lit up. The duck was moist and tender, really concentrated in flavour and had a nicely crisped skin. However, it was the green rice that had me salivating for more. It had amazing intensity of flavour, like it was made with a very concentrated stock, perhaps with the duck fat?? Herby, fluffy, creamy, very moist, almost like a dry risotto.
I couldn’t really tell what it was, maybe it was the reducing sauce the rice was cooked it (dark beer??), but whatever it was, it was fantastic. This was something I could keep topping up bowl after bowl after bowl with. This may seem left-field (maybe because of the colour) , but it brought up similar warm feelings after I tried Heston’s snail porridge. Or for 2012 era, the cod cheeks porridge at Dinner.
For me, this dish was a winner, I never knew confit duck could be interpreted like this, I can still smell all the spices, herbs and the rice as I write it.
Chicken Anticuchos, £6.75.
Chicken cubes on a skewer. For £6.75? Better off heading to Bincho Yakitori for chicken oysters or chicken skin for the same money.
We paid £45.62 for food plus two beers. No pudding. A full meal here will probably average £25-30pp. Not overly expensive, but a little dearer than expected.
I dislike the dining room in the back. Save for a small skylight, there are no windows, and it’s stuffy like a cellar – dead fish, lime and dust. I couldn’t wait to get out the minute I got in. I know decrepit Soho spaces are trendy, but personally I’m getting tired of trying to have a meal surrounded by barely adequate furniture. More to the point, I think the kind of food Ceviche sell, requires a room with plenty of light to emphasize freshness and fragrance. I cannot imagine how stuffy it would get on hot summer nights, candles only, all the while trying to negotiate raw fish cooked in lime juice. On my visit, the music was definitely too loud, or maybe it’s just that the room was so small. If you’re there, you should avoid the dead spots in the furthest corners of the room (that’s where the missus and I sat) , and the ideal seats appear to be at the bar.
In spite of my wayward criticism, I think it’s a (mostly) good effort, though I feel it is destined to become nothing more than a convenient meeting point for after work drinks or casual group dinners. Martin has certainly paved a largely smooth road for Peruvian to enter the market, but it does feel like this is merely a dress rehearsal for something more polished on the horizon. But hey what do I know right? After all, this is only the first time I’ve eaten Peruvian food.
Next up Tierra Peru.
The Gist of It
Ceviche
Peruvian £25pp.
17 Frith Street W1D 4RG
Tel : 020 72922040
Tube : Leicester Square
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Kang I agree with you, went to the place, prices a bit on the high size, and I’ve eaten in Peru not impressed to be honest, it was ok relatively good… by the way you missed the heart anticucho that’s the traditional one to try
Interesting. I have eaten here twice and found it fantastic quality. I do also wonder if maybe the author should travel a little more. The reference to Nobu, is interesting, as having eaten there since its early days, I now find it little more than a chain, little apart from Nandos.
As for price, it isn’t a big Mac, but, nor do I expect it to be. I travel a lot and in many cities of the world, the cost of a meal would not buy a starter in many parts of the world.
If I had one thing I would change is the introduction of lamb. It is one of the greatest meats this country produces and should be glorified on menus. though that is a failing of a lot of London and one I have never understood. But I live in hope.
The rear dining is a little “unusual”. Not in a bad way, though a little difficult to get used to for those more used to larger premises. But, the pisco sours more than made up for that.
The other interesting thing I found was that the vegetarian friends with me were very happy – something that I dread when we dine together.
Having visited Lima on many occasions including visits to La Mar, I find the ceviche as good as anything I have had.
Chris – Yeah, completely accept your point, indeed I need to venture out more. As I said though, I’ve zero experience with Peruvian food, never been to peru either, so I suppose to approached this as an introduction.
I think the problem was that I was perhaps associating ceviche with sashimi, two quite different ways of serving raw fish. At least that was the preconceptions I had before the meal.
Hah, indeed he has something like 21 locations across the globe now, a kind of expensive franchise, but this probably applies to Ramsay restaurants as well.
Having said that, I did really enjoy the duck.
There is also tierra Peru and Lima opening this year- i will visit and write about them as well, but I would be interested to hear your thoughts too. Do drop by to comment when that comes around.
Thanks for the reply. I am sorry if my critique was a little harsh, but after being in Peru a lot I am a little passionate about the food.
It is in no way a type of Japanese, in fact I find that it is more influenced by Chinese, known as Chifa.
There is a interesting review today in the Times of Ceviche, though I haven’t read it complete yet as I am currently traveling.
I am as guilty as anyone as approaching a meal with preconceptions. In fact, the first time I ate michelin star I was hugely disappointed as I had read some of the books attributed to french restaurants and it just could never have lived up to the bloated expectations I had conceived.
Many thanks
Chris
Interesting. I have eaten here twice and found it fantastic quality. I do also wonder if maybe the author should travel a little more. The reference to Nobu, is interesting, as having eaten there since its early days, I now find it little more than a chain, little apart from Nandos.
As for price, it isn’t a big Mac, but, nor do I expect it to be. I travel a lot and in many cities of the world, the cost of a meal would not buy a starter in many parts of the world.
If I had one thing I would change is the introduction of lamb. It is one of the greatest meats this country produces and should be glorified on menus. though that is a failing of a lot of London and one I have never understood. But I live in hope.
The rear dining is a little “unusual”. Not in a bad way, though a little difficult to get used to for those more used to larger premises. But, the pisco sours more than made up for that.
The other interesting thing I found was that the vegetarian friends with me were very happy – something that I dread when we dine together.
Having visited Lima on many occasions including visits to La Mar, I find the ceviche as good as anything I have had.
Chris – No apologies needed, I always heartily welcome feedback, no matter how harsh. I am always intrigued with how others experience the same dishes as I, but really I think everybody’s opinion is a valid one, and is all part of healthy discussion/debate.
Especially when someone has more experience in a particular cuisine. For me, food is still a educational journey, there are so many things I’ve never tried before, so listening to the stories of others is always insightful!
After all, this blog is set up to ‘critique’ the hardwork of others, and so it should be only right that I receive criticism when I get it wrong as well. Partly the beauty of food, being so subjective and all.
Sorry, may I ask a question? I am struggling to find a really good serving of salt marsh lamb which should be great at the moment. Any recommendations? Hambleton Hall had it fantastic a couple of years ago, but am struggling now.
Chris – Probably Trinity. Adam Byatt does quite fantastic things to local British produce. Not sure if Salt Marsh Lamb is currently on his menu, but if it is, I would say go there: http://www.trinityrestaurant.co.uk/
Otherwise, the last time I had a good dish with salt marsh lamb was at Ben Tish’s Opera Tavern. A tapas bar in the vein of his other restaurants, Salt Yard, but really just fantastic cooking overall.
Hi Kang, I went last week and thought it was great. I agree that their duck dish is delicious but their ceviches I’m told are the best outside of Lima. I thought they were delicious and loved one called Don Ceviche. I went with a Peruvian friend who said it was almost better than in Peru, but certainly the best he’s had outside of Peru. Yes, the back is a bit tight but many of Soho’s best places are.
Hi Chris, i find a bit interesting looking at all your comments it seems like you work for Ceviche, you have to be more impartial and open to other views. As a Peruvian myself i am not impressed at all with Ceviche, i agree the place is modern and nice but the food needs re-shaping, if you really been to Peru so many times as you said, then you should know there are amazing places to eat, a simple ceviche made in front of you in mancora (really fresh fish) it could take your breath away…the best ceviche in London?.. i respect your opinion but i will invite you one day to my house for dinner, then you will see what i mean, try other places like titos, lima or tierra peru, you might think differently…well, just in case you are really not part of the ceviche team…but to be honest i tink you are..so good luck with your business anyway!!
Having tasted Peruvian before, this is a poor representation of their cuisine and at very high prices. Mediocre food, mediocre coctails and high prices . . . Good service though . . .
No doubt you’ve already heard about Ceviche, the first of a trio of Peruvian restaurants to open in London this year. Started by Martin Morales, Brit with half a Peruvian heritage, he gave up a notable music career (According to Xanthe, he signed KT Tursntall and launched iTunes in Europe!) to plug a gaping hole in the market. Which he reckons will be nicely filled with an introduction to raw seafood cold cooked in tiger’s milk.
Apart from the fusion dishes at Nobu, I’ve never eaten Peruvian food. This cuisine has always been written about as the next big thing (Monocle did a nice spread last year), partly given its unique history of diverse cultural influences, one can argue that Peruvian is a true expression of fusion food. Given the decades the Nobu restaurants have spent in the (international) limelight , Peru hasn’t really taken off as a must visit destination for gastro-tourist.
The cuisine’s foremost ambassador is Gastón Acurio. By wikipedia’s account, he is a bit of a legend in his native Peru. His name is attached to No.35 on the 2012 World Best 50 , but it diffuses down to a diverse portfolio of operations which include a hamburger bar, a Peruvian-Chinese restaurant, a hotel and even a ‘gastronomic’ university. I’m most intrigued by the mention of his roast chicken franchise, La Pollada. Might it come on British shores and threaten Nandos’ monopoly on the market? That’s for another blog post.
Where was I? Ah yes, The Morales tiger’s milk: an acidic marinade consisting of a closely guarded recipe centered around salt, lime and chilli. Poured over a variety of seafood, the concoction is the very soul of the ceviche. The ceviche in turn, according to Martin represents “Everything you need to know about Peruvian food is in it”.
Alianza Lima, £7.50
With one prawn, chopped squid, octopus, giant cholo corn, seabass (as the fish on that day), beansprouts, coriander.
So it’s like a sashimi salad. Personally, I felt like all the citrus killed the texture of the seabass. It just didn’t taste fresh. In fact it tasted like a soaked sponge. I was annoyed to have to share a single prawn with the missus. Does this imply that the plate is a single person portion?
The sensation of chewing on soggy raw fish wasn’t what I had hoped for. Could it have been doused with too much tiger’s milk? I had expected sharpness, freshness and vibrancy. Maybe like a freshly shucked oyster – seawater spewing all over my top – with lashings of freshly squeezed lemon and tabasco, but alas this wasn’t it. I thought the spice and zest of the tiger’s milk was interesting, but overall, the dish lacked excitement. It was muted. At £7.50, it’s not exactly cheap.
Granted it’s an unfair comparison given the Nobu’s high prices and use of premium ingredients, but really Nobu(s) is rather good with the Peruvian dishes. Ok, so my last visit to Berkeley was over 3 years ago, over 6 to Park Lane, but if you can afford it, Nobu is still a very dependable restaurant. I still hold the view that only Nobu restaurants can do justice to Black Cod Miso. Remember that dish? Oh man, nostalgia.
Anyway, I digress. I expected that Ceviche’s star billing to be at the very least addictive and fun. I really tried to like it, but I just didn’t.
Sakura Maru, £6.25
Salmon carpaccio, tiger’s milk with mirin, soyo, satsuma and what appears to be spring onion. AKA ‘new style’ salmon sashimi. The sauce tastes exactly like the Alianza Lima. It was ok.
I am reminded of the spicy sashimi salad at Sakura, Oxford Circus , usually a dinner-only item, which uses a variety of ‘discarded’ bits from sashimi / nigiri. Salmon, seabass, hamachi, thin prawn carpaccio, seaweed usually feature, and a spicy, zesty, fresh and vibrant sauce is poured over it. It’s very addictive (they’ve got a bit stingy with the spicy sauce over the years) but I had it a few weeks ago and it’s still very good as always. Not Peruvian obviously, but at £6 or thereabouts, it’s far superior as an experience of raw fish + spicy citrus sauce than this.
Given the generally positive reviews and Martin’s largely successful PR, I really, really tried to like it but I just couldn’t. Not to say there was anything particularly wrong with it, but I just felt like there are comparably better things to eat in London at similar price points.
Ensalda de Quinoa, £3.75
With white quinoa, tomatoes, avocado, butter beans, coriander and rocoto chilli vinaigrette. Ah! We really liked this dish. It was fresh, zesty, lively and everything I perceived Peruvian cuisine to be. And it was affordable.
Arroz con Pato, £11.50
Confit duck in coriander, dark beer rice with aji amarillo chilli.
For £11.50 …it’s more expensive that the tiny tapas plates at Copita. When this arrived, I thought ‘Opera Tavern! Salt Yard! Tapas!’ , and truthfully I didn’t expect it to shine.
We took our first forkful (no spoons provided) and we both lit up. The duck was moist and tender, really concentrated in flavour and had a nicely crisped skin. However, it was the green rice that had me salivating for more. It had amazing intensity of flavour, like it was made with a very concentrated stock, perhaps with the duck fat?? Herby, fluffy, creamy, very moist, almost like a dry risotto.
I couldn’t really tell what it was, maybe it was the reducing sauce the rice was cooked it (dark beer??), but whatever it was, it was fantastic. This was something I could keep topping up bowl after bowl after bowl with. This may seem left-field (maybe because of the colour) , but it brought up similar warm feelings after I tried Heston’s snail porridge. Or for 2012 era, the cod cheeks porridge at Dinner.
For me, this dish was a winner, I never knew confit duck could be interpreted like this, I can still smell all the spices, herbs and the rice as I write it.
Chicken Anticuchos, £6.75.
Chicken cubes on a skewer. For £6.75? Better off heading to Bincho Yakitori for chicken oysters or chicken skin for the same money.
We paid £45.62 for food plus two beers. No pudding. A full meal here will probably average £25-30pp. Not overly expensive, but a little dearer than expected.
I dislike the dining room in the back. Save for a small skylight, there are no windows, and it’s stuffy like a cellar – dead fish, lime and dust. I couldn’t wait to get out the minute I got in. I know decrepit Soho spaces are trendy, but personally I’m getting tired of trying to have a meal surrounded by barely adequate furniture. More to the point, I think the kind of food Ceviche sell, requires a room with plenty of light to emphasize freshness and fragrance. I cannot imagine how stuffy it would get on hot summer nights, candles only, all the while trying to negotiate raw fish cooked in lime juice. On my visit, the music was definitely too loud, or maybe it’s just that the room was so small. If you’re there, you should avoid the dead spots in the furthest corners of the room (that’s where the missus and I sat) , and the ideal seats appear to be at the bar.
In spite of my wayward criticism, I think it’s a (mostly) good effort, though I feel it is destined to become nothing more than a convenient meeting point for after work drinks or casual group dinners. Martin has certainly paved a largely smooth road for Peruvian to enter the market, but it does feel like this is merely a dress rehearsal for something more polished on the horizon. But hey what do I know right? After all, this is only the first time I’ve eaten Peruvian food.
Next up Tierra Peru.
The Gist of It
Ceviche
Peruvian £25pp.
17 Frith Street W1D 4RG
Tel : 020 72922040
Tube : Leicester Square
Did you enjoy reading this? You can subscribe to the Newsletter. Alternatively, you can subscribe to the RSS feed.
Comments (12)
Kang I agree with you, went to the place, prices a bit on the high size, and I’ve eaten in Peru not impressed to be honest, it was ok relatively good… by the way you missed the heart anticucho that’s the traditional one to try
The rice definitively has some black beer in it. It may also include some chicha (fermented corn liquor)
Interesting. I have eaten here twice and found it fantastic quality. I do also wonder if maybe the author should travel a little more. The reference to Nobu, is interesting, as having eaten there since its early days, I now find it little more than a chain, little apart from Nandos.
As for price, it isn’t a big Mac, but, nor do I expect it to be. I travel a lot and in many cities of the world, the cost of a meal would not buy a starter in many parts of the world.
If I had one thing I would change is the introduction of lamb. It is one of the greatest meats this country produces and should be glorified on menus. though that is a failing of a lot of London and one I have never understood. But I live in hope.
The rear dining is a little “unusual”. Not in a bad way, though a little difficult to get used to for those more used to larger premises. But, the pisco sours more than made up for that.
The other interesting thing I found was that the vegetarian friends with me were very happy – something that I dread when we dine together.
Having visited Lima on many occasions including visits to La Mar, I find the ceviche as good as anything I have had.
Maybe the author needs to travel a little more?
Chris – Yeah, completely accept your point, indeed I need to venture out more. As I said though, I’ve zero experience with Peruvian food, never been to peru either, so I suppose to approached this as an introduction.
I think the problem was that I was perhaps associating ceviche with sashimi, two quite different ways of serving raw fish. At least that was the preconceptions I had before the meal.
Hah, indeed he has something like 21 locations across the globe now, a kind of expensive franchise, but this probably applies to Ramsay restaurants as well.
Having said that, I did really enjoy the duck.
There is also tierra Peru and Lima opening this year- i will visit and write about them as well, but I would be interested to hear your thoughts too. Do drop by to comment when that comes around.
Thanks for reading.
K.
Hi K
Thanks for the reply. I am sorry if my critique was a little harsh, but after being in Peru a lot I am a little passionate about the food.
It is in no way a type of Japanese, in fact I find that it is more influenced by Chinese, known as Chifa.
There is a interesting review today in the Times of Ceviche, though I haven’t read it complete yet as I am currently traveling.
I am as guilty as anyone as approaching a meal with preconceptions. In fact, the first time I ate michelin star I was hugely disappointed as I had read some of the books attributed to french restaurants and it just could never have lived up to the bloated expectations I had conceived.
Many thanks
Chris
Interesting. I have eaten here twice and found it fantastic quality. I do also wonder if maybe the author should travel a little more. The reference to Nobu, is interesting, as having eaten there since its early days, I now find it little more than a chain, little apart from Nandos.
As for price, it isn’t a big Mac, but, nor do I expect it to be. I travel a lot and in many cities of the world, the cost of a meal would not buy a starter in many parts of the world.
If I had one thing I would change is the introduction of lamb. It is one of the greatest meats this country produces and should be glorified on menus. though that is a failing of a lot of London and one I have never understood. But I live in hope.
The rear dining is a little “unusual”. Not in a bad way, though a little difficult to get used to for those more used to larger premises. But, the pisco sours more than made up for that.
The other interesting thing I found was that the vegetarian friends with me were very happy – something that I dread when we dine together.
Having visited Lima on many occasions including visits to La Mar, I find the ceviche as good as anything I have had.
Maybe the author needs to travel a little more?
Chris – No apologies needed, I always heartily welcome feedback, no matter how harsh. I am always intrigued with how others experience the same dishes as I, but really I think everybody’s opinion is a valid one, and is all part of healthy discussion/debate.
Especially when someone has more experience in a particular cuisine. For me, food is still a educational journey, there are so many things I’ve never tried before, so listening to the stories of others is always insightful!
After all, this blog is set up to ‘critique’ the hardwork of others, and so it should be only right that I receive criticism when I get it wrong as well. Partly the beauty of food, being so subjective and all.
K.
Sorry, may I ask a question? I am struggling to find a really good serving of salt marsh lamb which should be great at the moment. Any recommendations? Hambleton Hall had it fantastic a couple of years ago, but am struggling now.
Chris – Probably Trinity. Adam Byatt does quite fantastic things to local British produce. Not sure if Salt Marsh Lamb is currently on his menu, but if it is, I would say go there: http://www.trinityrestaurant.co.uk/
Otherwise, the last time I had a good dish with salt marsh lamb was at Ben Tish’s Opera Tavern. A tapas bar in the vein of his other restaurants, Salt Yard, but really just fantastic cooking overall.
K.
Hi Kang, I went last week and thought it was great. I agree that their duck dish is delicious but their ceviches I’m told are the best outside of Lima. I thought they were delicious and loved one called Don Ceviche. I went with a Peruvian friend who said it was almost better than in Peru, but certainly the best he’s had outside of Peru. Yes, the back is a bit tight but many of Soho’s best places are.
Hi Chris, i find a bit interesting looking at all your comments it seems like you work for Ceviche, you have to be more impartial and open to other views. As a Peruvian myself i am not impressed at all with Ceviche, i agree the place is modern and nice but the food needs re-shaping, if you really been to Peru so many times as you said, then you should know there are amazing places to eat, a simple ceviche made in front of you in mancora (really fresh fish) it could take your breath away…the best ceviche in London?.. i respect your opinion but i will invite you one day to my house for dinner, then you will see what i mean, try other places like titos, lima or tierra peru, you might think differently…well, just in case you are really not part of the ceviche team…but to be honest i tink you are..so good luck with your business anyway!!
Having tasted Peruvian before, this is a poor representation of their cuisine and at very high prices. Mediocre food, mediocre coctails and high prices . . . Good service though . . .
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