Cast your mind back a couple of years ago and the emergence of the gourmet burger in this country, particularly London. I contributed my two pennies with a burger shoot-out of my own last year, pitching some of the well regarded burger bars against one another. Since then, the momentum for sleek burgers have subsided. And then I saw this post about what our NY cousins have for lunch.. oh man, it blew my insides away and then some. I am told that we are still lightyears behind American burger places. This year’s burger battle is a much more quiet affair, I’ve decided to focus only on the top two burger joints (arguably) in the smoke: Hache and Byron.
I’m no burger connoisseur, I haven’t tried every burger in the city (if I had I probably won’t be writing this), but I have tried most of the big hitters, and on a pretty regular basis. I live in a unique location in West London where I am within about 10 minutes walking distance from a Byron, Hache and two GBKs. Now, I’ve heard much about the Hawksmoor burger but that’s still on my to-eat list so can’t comment as yet. In anycase, feel free to chime in with a recommendation or two if you know something I don’t.
The Case of the Byron
When I did my burger battle last year, Byron was still the new kid on the block, but today it is very much ‘the’ burger joint, springing up in loads of locations (including twitter) and garnering many an internet fan.
One thing I really like about Byron is that they seem to take feedback seriously and make the little adjustments. Take for instance the mini burgers they once had on their menu – now gone, since people thought the portions were too paltry. Byron are also abit like zen masters, preferring to keep their menu short and focused on the delivery of ‘the perfect burger’. Prices start at £5.95 for the classic. Before we get into food, let’s talk abit about the atmosphere. I think it reflects the Byron mantra, steely, calm, controlled.
Alright – let’s get into the food: We have the blue-cheese burger, £6.95.
Let me just start by saying that I was the biggest GBK fan, the tomato relish is still unbeatable in my humble opinion.
I pick up a Byron about once a month (because its so close) and over the months, I had noticed how the Byron got better, and better and better. The bun is much like a floury sponge capable of soaking up all the good juices without falling to pieces. I’ve noticed how the bun seems to get better and better at holding the burger in when you take a bite. Right now, I think it is at that point where it’s abit special, and miles ahead of the competition (especially GBK). As for the burger itself, well its juicy, its beefy, its flavoursome and its sizzles; It is very nearly perfect to my humble palate.
The strength of the Byron is how all the elements gel together to form one consistent taste – a signature taste I might add – which leaves a real impression on you and makes you want to go back, which is to say that th Byron is something I can eat again and again and again.
I used to be Byron skeptic when they first came on the scene, but as the months rolled by, I actually think that they are continually refining the perfect burger and they’ve now got something distinctive.
The Case of Hache
Hache has universally been hailed as the best burger makers in town and few can fault them. Their secret to burger success, is to not to serve burger with their burgers…. They serve steak haches instead. As I said, I’m no connoisseur, but with Hache, I believe the main difference with their burgers is that it is made from chopped steak as opposed to minced beef.
I think the décor at Hache has infinitely more ambiance than any other burger place in town. It has lots of warming lights and it feels more like a neighbourhood restaurant. I especially liked that they were playing Ella Fitzgerald at the Fulham Road branch, it’s magic, especially on a lonely Wednesday night. I was glad that they have relaxed their photography policy, which really ticked me off. When I was there last week, they didn’t seem to mind my D700.
The Hache burgers are just a tad dearer with the classic steak au naturel starting at £6.95. Now, the Hache menu is much longer and has more variety. In addition to steak haches, there are fish burgers, duck burgers and lamb burgers. I was a little disappointed to see the cod burger being taken off, I loved it when I had it.
Anywho – I ordered the Sicilian: parma ham and melted premium mozzarella cheese, £8.95.
I asked for it medium rare, it was cooked as requested. Tick. The hache texture is rubbery and bouncy compared to a ‘normal’ mince burger. I was disappointed that my burger was abit dry and unenthusiastic. It was tepid and it didn’t impart that grilled sensation. Flavourwise, a lot beefiness but on the whole it didn’t feel alive in my mouth. The hache bun is probably its weakest link – in short it’s crap. You cannot palm a hache in your hand, this posh cow requires you to eat it with a fork and knife. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, but compared to Byron who have perfected the dark arts of the burger experience, I think Hache has lost abit of its bite.
The king is dead, long live the king
I tell you what was smashing at Hache: the mocha (£2.50) , the deep chocolate infused coffee was a devilish way to end my meal.
I think Hache has taken a step back, I distinctly remember being properly blown to bits once upon a time, last week it was good but not memorable. On the other hand, Byron continues to wow, everytime I go back, I feel like I’m having yet another enhanced version of an already perfect recipe. I just get the feeling that Byron are obsessed with their product, and that can only be good news for this regular burger goer.
If you have yet to give Hache a try, I would still recommend it because it is still pretty special in its own right. But for me, given the choice, I would go to Byron again and again. Long live the king, baby.
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food.bymark
Has you layout changed? Bokeh on burger #2 is insane. Nice.
October 23, 2009 at 10:46 am
Kang L.
Mark – Yeah I changed it last night (I need to email you a cracking link I found last week about this) , abit nervous about it tbh, not sure how people will react to the new changes. Tweakes and changes are ongoing though so expect small colour changes and reshuffled widgets here and there.
October 23, 2009 at 10:50 am
food.bymark
I like it. Bigger photos right?
October 23, 2009 at 10:57 am
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October 23, 2009 at 10:51 am
Ollie
I’m a great lover of both of these places, and like you I’ve been to Byron more than Haché. I should probably stop by Haché again to see how they’re doing: I’m sorry you think they’ve gone downhill. Beautiful pictures, as always.
October 23, 2009 at 10:58 am
Mr Noodles
I hate artifice and fancy-smancy marketing so it riles me that Hache have called the burger you ate a “Sicilian”. Parma is in the north of Italy and to the best of my knowledge, you can’t get Sicilian mozzarella. So what makes the burger Sicilian? The fact that the burger at Hache was inferior can surely be no coincidence.
BTW – love the new look
October 23, 2009 at 11:10 am
Kerri
I’ve been doing a little burger research myself lately and Hache is next on the list, I haven’t been before.
I really like Byron’s burgers and I think they’re very good value. Like you, I like the way they involve themselves in the community and listen to feedback.
I find GBK completely tasteless, they’re too large a chain to really listen to the consumer and are just another McDonald’s in my opinion.
October 23, 2009 at 11:28 am
Laissez Fare
Hi Kang, thanks for this. I just visited the Hache in Camden Town for the first time last weekend and had a pretty amazing burger (the classic cheeseburger). I haven’t had Byron yet, so am very eager to do so (along with Hawksmoor). As usual, wonderful photos and fun write-up. I like the new layout as well
Best regards,
LF
October 23, 2009 at 12:16 pm
Michele
Awesome new layout, and amazing shots as usual!
Mr Noodles – I agree, very strange to call Prosciutto and Mozarella a “Sicilian” – if anything, Siciliano would be more like aubergines, capers, olives, maybe anchovies or something fishy, something like that…
Hache is closer for me, so I’ve been there many times, and I don’t know about the other places, but I suspect the idea that sets Hache apart (beyond just beef steak quality) is that the no-bun, burger with salad “healthy” option is encouraged and very popular from what I can tell. Anyways that’s what I usually get, and everyone I take there loves it.
But this post has given me the push I needed – perhaps we will head down to Byron on Kings Rd tonight and give it a try!
October 23, 2009 at 3:52 pm
BurgerDogBoy
so cool! when I lived there in the early 90s, it was impossible to find a burger beyond the fast food joints. eagerly planning a trip now!
October 23, 2009 at 6:55 pm
Yvonne
Love your new layout!!! Have always been a GBK fan…their habanero is the best..but this Byron thing….you have me convinced….
October 23, 2009 at 10:54 pm
MyLastBite
Beautiful photos!
October 23, 2009 at 11:38 pm
Gastro1
Totally agree we are in the dark ages compared to NYC and most of the US.
Also at the price point you address Hache and Byron are the tops.
The best Hamburger in London IMHO irrespective of price is probably still Joe Allen’s (off menu).
October 24, 2009 at 12:43 am
sabrina
I have to say again how much I love the nips and tucks. Your site is like Byron. It gets better each time I visit. Yummy!
October 24, 2009 at 3:48 am
Helen
Well as you probably know, I love Byron. Tom was so kind to indulge me in the burger bun challenge! I was amazed at how many types of bun they made for us to try! The burgers are great too. I do love some things about GBK too – the smoked chilli mayo for example. Hache on the other hand – I am not a fan. The meat is good but that ciabatta bun is absolutely outrageous. I expect everyone is bored of me going on about it now though so I’ll stop!
October 24, 2009 at 2:52 pm
Helen @ World Foodie Guide
What a fun post! I’ve not been to either still, as I’m not the biggest fan of burgers (there, I’ve said it now, but on your blog, not mine!). I used to go to GBK once in a while, but now I prefer a giant field mushroom burger, home-made…
October 25, 2009 at 4:20 pm
Tiramisuu
My friends hated Byron they didn’t like the bap but i love it 101% i think burgers should be served as B’s. Glad that someone’s on the same page as moi. ho ho ho. Hope to bump into you one day!
October 25, 2009 at 9:59 pm
Rachel Sweeting
I visited Hache Chelsea last week and loved it – had the most sublime halloumi starter then a chicken club which was fabulous. Haven’t tried Byron yet, but I’m a bit of a Hache convert!
October 26, 2009 at 8:59 am
Kang L.
Mark – yeah bigger photos, its 660px now instead of 560px wide, has more impact I think…but also means that I have to work the technique harder.
Ollie – Thanks mate – how goes things on your end? Haven’t heard from you in a while, perhaps we should meet up? I was a Hache believer initially but I think Byron really are on fire so far.
Mr Noodles – I never thought of the name actually, yeah, they have an air of superiority around them Hache, which is not always welcomed. For me, I used to be cheesed off with their no photography policy, but it seems to be relaxed now.
Kerri – Yes I think Byron connecting with the public is definitely a great move for them. Oh definitely give Hache a try, they still have many fans, I would be interested in your thoughts too
LF – cheers mate
how was the cooking over the weekend? Trust you had a good one.
Michele – thanks! Are you another west londoner? Kings road is my closests Hache
BurgerDogBOy – Yeah, there was a burger explosion in the last couple of years in London
Yvonne – You must give Byron a try!
Mylastbite – thank you
Gastro1 – ahh Joe Allen’s – right, I’ll look that up and give it a try. Thanks for that
Sabrina – thank you again, very kind words
Helen G – Yes yes, I have to agree – the Hache bun is outrageous indeed, but the Byron is lovely, I think the byron buns are the best in London so far, certainly the best Ive had so far.
Helen P – Lol, I didn’t know that, ah, Y likes field mushrooms too!
Tiramisuu – Totally agree with you – burgers should be serves as B’s!!
Rachel Sweeting – Give Byron a try, I used to a hache convert..took about a year to change my mind though
October 26, 2009 at 9:27 am
Toasted Special
Great post Kang. Loved Byron when I last visited London. I like their “simple, adorned” philosophy. Thanks again for bringing this place to our attention.
October 26, 2009 at 9:03 pm
Greedy Diva
I really like Hache, but nothing beats Shake Shack in New York. I’ll be there in 2 weeks – your post has already got me hankering for it…
October 29, 2009 at 2:20 pm
roym
agree with your summary re hache. mine was a bit dry and really wasnt better than GBK. cant wait to try byron, when’s the south london branch opening?!
SS looks worth a try, i was just in NY but would have struggled to wait over an hour for a burger. Did try BLT burger though, owned by Laurent Tourondel. very nice, but what else does one expect in the states?
November 2, 2009 at 2:22 pm
Byron – “Proper Hamburgers”? « GlazeOnFood
[...] month after reading Kang’s burger shootout, I was inspired to head down to Byron on Kings road (which is a great stopping point before the [...]
November 30, 2009 at 5:35 pm