Tartine restaurant and bar, official website
114 Draycott Avenue, SW3 3AE | 020 7589 4981
£10.00 per tartine , £ 3.50 skinny chips £2.50 coffees
A tartine is a slice of bread.
The Tartine, on the other hand, is a French eating concept. The concept is simple and Italian loving Londoners familiar with the bruschetta will be comfortable with the Tartine, which are giant slices of Poilane, a type of sourdough topped with a variety of delicatables. Lightly toasted, doused with a sprinkle of olive oil and accompanied by a fresh house salad to round off a very balanced French meal.
The livelihood of most tasty restaurants rests on the skill of the point man in the kitchen, making it a trend, rather than an institution ( are the top 10 places to eat today the same as it was 35 years ago? ) . But if you build an establishment around a concept, ah, now we’re on to something, a concept can be propagated and passed to the No.2 or even No.3 without much dip in quality ( dare I say it? – think McDs and KFC ). Borrowing a line from Chris Nolan’s reason for a Bat minister of Gotham: “ A man can be killed, destroyed but a symbol .…is incorruptible” ( What does this have to do with Tartine, Kang? )
Concept? Symbol? Incorruptible? Too subtle? I’ve always wanted to quote my favourite movies, and I’m not sorry.
I am a resident of the Borough of Chelsea and Kensington
As I write this on a chilly Friday afternoon, classic fm (Netharlands, what a great radio channel) , Il Divo have joined X-factor on jumping on the ‘Hallejulah’ bandwagon, sorry boys and girls, there is only one version which is considered music and that is the haunting Jeff Buckley version. Everything else is just ‘trash’ ( As they say ).
The Victoria and Albert along me old university
South Kensington is beautiful, it’s peaceful has really nice places to chill out, great museums and it also forms one part of the knightsbridge-sloane square-south ken axis of posh power.
Did I mention it’s very French too? At the eye of this axis lies the Michelin building and several small scale fashion shops and some very trendy eating concepts, one of them is (of course) the incorruptible Tartine concept.
Oh mon dieu, the French have landed.
Stepping through the unassuming shop leads me into a dark and low ceiling cosy dining space. The front of the restaurant-cum-bar-cum-café is a long rectangular table which can probably sit about 8 guests and I am greeted by a rather chippy silver maned English gentlemen, complete with a links sweater and an R.P. so standard that it is likely to be pre-approved by the Queen. The low ceilings and the cream walls are well lit with plenty of good spotlights, giving it this cool cavern-like (perhaps lounge is more fitting) feel, oh and it’s also got these long, comfy sofa style seats stuck to the walls. So far so good, the spotlights keep my copy of the Times completely readable, so I am happy.
Choosing a French Bruschetta , or was it Italian Tartine?
The menu is very straightforward, tartines are available with a range of hot/cold toppings including choices such as flaked salmon, pickled cucumber, sweet dill and mustard dressing; Minute steak and caramelised onions; Shredded duck, crispy ginger, cucumber and plum sauce; and Grilled squid, rocket, sweet chilli jam and fresh lime.
As you can see, the toppings cover a pretty wide gamut and is bound to include something which tickles your tastebuds. In addition, they also do chippies, burgers and other mains such as a grilled salmon and even chicken. I did also spot a steak tartare served with toasted poilane, which I must try on my next visit. Opps, I let my verdict out even before tasting the dish. Oh well, Friday slip ups.
Crabs on Toast, with lots of skinny chips.
I decided to defy Gordon Brown’s mess and order the most expensive tartine on the menu: Crab meat with courchamps sauce, £11.50. And skinny chips too, £3.50 a pot. Before I could whip open my copy of the Times, the meal had arrived on my table. Coffee after I suppose, but first – the chips. Chewy, soft and overall, very nice, very frites like and quite ‘authentically Parisian’ … it’s just chips, and it tastes good.
As for my tartine, the crab meat really caught my attention. It was definitely fresh and smelled really aromatic too. I duly squeezed my wedge of lemon and took a taste of the pretty intriguing green courchamp sauce smothered over it. The sauce is a godsend, it has a very clean taste, and an aftertaste that is rather like a cucumber with hoison sauce. It also tasted of capers, parsley and perhaps even garlic. I’m not quite sure what else is in there (pepper?) but it was refreshingly appetising and went so very well with the crab meat. The crab meat is real and does not seem to be some sort of frozen re-formed crap. I could see the fresh flakes and taste the ocean – so it was pretty good. ( I come from a town where we can buy freshly caught live lobsters for £3 per kg so I know my seafood well. )
As for my slice of sourdough, it is dryer and tougher ( crackle and pop as I bite ) than I’d prefer it to be – it is very much like a bruschetta, but I’d still like to hang on to my teeth for a while longer yet so I didn’t appreciate the hardness.
I should also mention that I saw other diners munching on a good looking burger and the fish and chips looked really awesome too – but obviously, I’m going to eat a tartine at Tartine, at least on first pass.
Finishing the rambles
This is quite a good looking Parisian style café featuring rather classic brunch/lunch dishes which all look like winners. Prices are recession friendly and the portions are relatively large.
Special mention as the coffee is ridiculously good here. I ordered the mocha and it tasted as if they melted proper swiss chocolate in there making my cuppa rich and thick and oh so sweet. For a moment, I thought I was drinking a damn good hot chocolate with hints of coffee instead. The creamy and silky smooth foam ( no bubbles , interestingly enough ) was filling and full flavoured.
What a nice way to finish the Times on a quiet, lazy afternoon. Worth a try and I think a bit of a hidden gem for lunch, brunch, coffee and a first date.
The Gist of it
Tartine restaurant and bar, official website
114 Draycott Avenue, SW3 3AE | 020 7589 4981
£10.00 per tartine , £ 3.50 skinny chips £2.50 coffees
Verdict: If you’re looking for a quiet, chilled out cafe serving simple straightforward food then come here and bring your favourite paper.
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Charmaine
Mmm, crab on toast… Nothing beats fresh crab.
And no bubbles in the foam? That, my friend, is a mark of perfection.
January 9, 2009 at 7:11 pm
Reality Raver
Hi,
I just read your comment under your Square Review. Thanks for responding to my request on where is good coffee in London. The coffee at Tartine sounds great. Also the first time in years you actually made me crave a mocha!
Funny that you mentioned Flat White in Soho as having great coffee, as it is run by antipodeans. Modelled a little bit on Bill’s Cafe in Sydney (don’t quote me on that). By the way has turkish bread fad hit London yet? It has been a fad here for about ten years but is trully delicious, especially with vegemite.
I am loving your foodie adventures.
January 10, 2009 at 1:35 am
Jorden
That sounds like a really nice spot to check out, I wish I had known about it when I was in that side of the world last week.
January 10, 2009 at 5:43 am
Kang L.
Char –
I went back there again for Lunch today and had the grilled squid + sweet chilli jam, really nice, tasted very chinese actually. My mate had the shredded duck with hoisin sauce, really tasty too, i had cappucino – not as nice as the mocha.
Reality Raver, glad to hear I made you crave, means that i’m doing my job as a blogger
, hmmm … don’t think I’ve ever had turkish bread in London actually and with vegemite? It’s not common here in London, don’t think, but I know of a a grill in Kilburn which offers turkish bread – bit remote though, so to answer your question – I guess its a no.
Jorden, this side of the world? Where do you live, Jorden (if you dont mind me asking?)
January 10, 2009 at 10:47 pm
Foong
Ahhh…nothing beats fresh crab meat! But the portion do seem quite huge though, I wouldn’t be able to finish it on my own!
January 12, 2009 at 3:01 am
The Duo Dishes
Gorge photos and the food looks delish! Give us more and more crab!
January 14, 2009 at 1:54 am
Natasha - 5 Star Foodie
The crab tartine looks amazing – I shall make one like that next week if I find good quality crab meat at the store. Great reviews! We were actually hoping to make it to London this month but unfortunately it didn’t work out. Maybe soon and then I can try out some of the places on your list.
January 19, 2009 at 2:18 am
Yvonne
Hi Kang,
That was a great review! I’ve always wanted to find a little gem of a spot like that, to while the afternoon away over good food and coffee. I actually chanced upon your blog while googling for hot eating spots in London. I’m based in Singapore right now and relocating to London next month SO your blog is gonna come in really handy! Just read your post on The Square and Im definitely going to give it a try.
Have you tried the 7-hour braised lamb shoulder at Tom’s kitchen? I like my meats (though i much prefer seafood) on occasion and that was superb.
Do you have any good chocolate shops/patisseries to recommend too? In particular, ones that specialise in dark chocolate? No surprises then that I’m a dark chocolate fanatic! =)
January 27, 2009 at 1:19 pm
Kang L.
Hello Yvonne!
You must be so excited to be relocating to London – Glad my blog can be useful to ya and I do hope you find the places I’m recommending tasty too
For pastry shops, you want to look up Pauls , Hummingbird Cafe and Pattiserie Valerie. For a cuppa try flat white.
Chocolate you say? You must go try Apostrophe – they have this melted pure chocolate as their hot chocolate, really creamy and rich!!
For chocolate, you want to be looking out for Chabonnel & Walker , L’Artisan Du Chocolat , thorntons and Paul A Young.
They will all have dark chocolates
though the best way to explore chocolate is to head to the Harrods food hall – they have a whole floor filled with LOTS of different chocolate stalls. Chocolate heaven as far as I’m concern.
Hope you have a safe journey to London and do drop by and leave a comment when you have touched down!!
January 28, 2009 at 7:33 am
Yvonne
Thanks for the recommendations Kang!!
I’ve been to Paul’s and Chabonnel et Walker (the champagne truffles are good!) –very very moreish.
Ok, Apostrophe, Hummingbird, L’ Artisan and Harrod’s will be the top of my choc list! I actually went looking for Paul A Young in Angel last August (was there on holiday) but he was CLOSED for renovations. I was so miffed.
Ive been perusing your blog and I love it!! Your description of that almost orgasmic custard pudding at Marcus Wareing is brilliant. CAnt wait to try out so many hot spots– I dont even know where to start when I get there.
Will be sure to drop a note to say hi once I’m on London soil!
January 28, 2009 at 2:02 pm
The best eat & reads in January 2009. — London Eater
[...] 3. Tartine “Crab meat with courchamps sauce, £11.50″ The tartine is the French version of Bruschetta. Rock hard sourdough toasts with toppings. This little gem in Sloane Square is a great place to grab a quick lunch. Great skinny chips too. Full review here. [...]
February 1, 2009 at 4:46 pm
Jak’s cafe : The Mediterranean cheesecake that stole the show [invite] « London Eater – London food blog and restaurant reviews
[...] I have a love and hate relationship with my neighbourhood; on one hand, SW7 is one of the more scenic postcodes. In between the leafy residences, and the perfectly trimmed hedges and the occasional embassy lies an eclectically chic high street which houses an array of quintessential lazy neighbourly cafes. On the otherhand, it’s just too bloody expensive to live there. So I received an email from Val who happens to own one of these neighbourhood cafes in Chelsea and had kindly offered a princely comped meal to in return for a write-up, to which I accepted. The attraction was obviously because I could wake up just in time for a Saturday brunch, and not worry about my tummy imploding on the way there. Situated on Walton Street, the surrounding area is also home to the iconic Michelin house which occupants include the Bibendum restaurant. Also in the area, is a local favourite of mine which serves French style open sandwiches – Tartine. [...]
January 11, 2010 at 11:09 am