Latest Posts

  • ADAD-3
    French 3

    ADAD 2017, JP Blondet.

    You know the crack at Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, one of Blighty’s quartet to be gifted the Bib’s highest accolade. This has been the Dorchester’s flagship restaurant for the good part of a decade, though I have somehow managed to avoid it for all these years. As of 2016, there was a change in helmsman, with Jocelyn Herland moving to head ...

    On June 30, 2017 / By
  • L1020220
    Modern Euro 0

    Bonhams Restaurant: May 2017 + archived dishes

    Other meals at Bonhams : Oct 16 , Sept 16 , June 16 , May16 , Mar16 , Dec15 , Oct15 Quite a number of months have passed since I wrote-up a meal at Bonhams, this being my 21st and yes, it is firmly my favourite restaurant in town today. There’s been some shuffling in the kitchen, Theo Clench, (now ex-)Sous off ...

    On June 23, 2017 / By
  • L1003755
    French 6

    The Greenhouse Mayfair

    Amazingly this is my first trip to The Greenhouse. It is not a new restaurant, if my facts are right, has been around since 1977 under other auspices across the decades, until Marlon Abela purchased it in 2003. Abela retains ownership today, with Umu and The Square being the other jewels in his constellation of stars. Different head chefs have come and ...

    On June 19, 2017 / By
  • L1003421
    scrambledkang 1

    #scrambledkang: Turbot

    Alongside garoupa (and bluefin tuna…), I think of European turbot as the very top end of fish that money can buy. Glimmering white flesh that has just the right ratio of meaty to flaky. A clean flavour, yet imbued with ample gelatin all around its bones and fins to impart an ‘oceaniness’. The taste of the fish is just perfect, fully deserves ...

    On June 2, 2017 / By
  • L1002906
    scrambledkang 2

    #scrambledkang: Asparagus

    Here’s the follow-up to my first post on my home-cooking adventures, otherwise hashtagged #scrambledkang elsewhere. I thought it would make sense to do them one ingredient at a time (since it is how I do the procuring), and make each one a discreet project. In the season of abundance and colour where there is so much to choose from, there is one ...

    On June 1, 2017 / By
  • L1003144
    Modern Euro 4

    Hedone 2017

    Since last year’s visit, I have come to think of Hedone as a 2 star. I suspect I am not the first to think this. This meal in late Spring 2017 , my sixth in as many years it has been open, has served only to solidify my thoughts about this discreet restaurant in Chiswick. Since its reduction of covers in late ...

    On May 23, 2017 / By
  • Midsummer-3
    French 5

    Midsummer House, Cambridge

    Daniel Clifford has been knocking it out of the park on TV ever since his debut on the Great British Menu in 2009, displaying a firm gasp of classic cooking with a touch of modernist creativity and above all, this guy seems a genuine lad, cooking with his heart on his sleeve. That chicken and corn dish still looks so amazing on ...

    On May 19, 2017 / By
  • DamedePic-3
    French 1

    La Dame de Pic London

    I have it on good account that this is not a mere carbon copy of the great Chef’s Parisian offshoot, also called Dame de Pic near the Louvre, rather it is the more ambitious of the twins. The great chef is of course Anne-Sophie Pic, she inherits a gastronomic dynasty so to speak with a long standing association with the bib, that ...

    On May 10, 2017 / By