Latest Posts

  • British 5

    Angler Restaurant

    During the last days of The (Old) Square, Gary’s style was becoming evident, which I find to be rather more elegant on the plate, with tidy compositions and precise cooking applied where necessary. Of course he had to do it within the confines of having to intepret Phil Howard’s more generous cooking, but I certainly thought that the Foulkes years (2013 to ...

    On August 3, 2017 / By
  • Taiwanese 2

    Xu London 許儒華苑 x Bao Fitz 包

    It was only a mere 2 years ago that the Chungs and (then) Miss Chang opened their breakout bricks and mortar shop in Soho. That all seems like a lifetime ago now, given their complete runaway success, having amassed this incredible fandom in London and beyond. No longer a humble street food stall, these folk are now swinging in the big leagues, ...

    On July 27, 2017 / By
  • British 1

    Lorne Restaurant

    I really like the way 2017 is shaping up for new London openings as there have been more than a handful of bright sparks that strike a good balance between casual ambiance without having to dilute substance on the plate. I certainly think Lorne is a leading light in this category and one of the best new openings so far. The restaurant ...

    On July 14, 2017 / By
  • scrambledkang 1

    #scrambledkang: Red Mullet

    Much as I love turbot, I think the mighty stripped red mullet (rouget de roche) is an equally noble fish. When cooked to the right temperature (as is the case for most protein, my preference almost always hovers the 55degC mark), the inherent oiliness, perky flakes and its particular depth in flavour surely makes it one of the most delicious experiences. And ...

    On July 11, 2017 / By
  • British 1

    Elystan Street – July 2017

    Other visits: Sept 2016 , Oct 2016 My 3rd visit to Phil Howard’s new digs and it is better than ever and in fact, I ate one of my best meals in 2017 so far. Phil’s head chef Toby Burrowes and his merry band have put the restaurant in a great spot and I think this team are flying right now. The ...

    On July 4, 2017 / By
  • French 3

    ADAD 2017, JP Blondet.

    You know the crack at Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, one of Blighty’s quartet to be gifted the Bib’s highest accolade. This has been the Dorchester’s flagship restaurant for the good part of a decade, though I have somehow managed to avoid it for all these years. As of 2016, there was a change in helmsman, with Jocelyn Herland moving to head ...

    On June 30, 2017 / By
  • Modern Euro 0

    Bonhams Restaurant: May 2017 + archived dishes

    Other meals at Bonhams : Oct 16 , Sept 16 , June 16 , May16 , Mar16 , Dec15 , Oct15 Quite a number of months have passed since I wrote-up a meal at Bonhams, this being my 21st and yes, it is firmly my favourite restaurant in town today. There’s been some shuffling in the kitchen, Theo Clench, (now ex-)Sous off ...

    On June 23, 2017 / By
  • French 6

    The Greenhouse Mayfair

    Amazingly this is my first trip to The Greenhouse. It is not a new restaurant, if my facts are right, has been around since 1977 under other auspices across the decades, until Marlon Abela purchased it in 2003. Abela retains ownership today, with Umu and The Square being the other jewels in his constellation of stars. Different head chefs have come and ...

    On June 19, 2017 / By