Latest Posts

  • Ledbury2017-3
    British 3

    The Ledbury – February 2017

    I wasn’t going to write about this beloved restaurant so soon after last summer’s post, but I was so impressed by this meal (and also given winter mise en place) that I thought it was worth putting the pictures and notes up. We did not eat game (that being one of our dietary requests), even though I would have liked to have ...

    On March 7, 2017 / By
  • Luca-3
    Italian 2

    Luca Restaurant

    When The Clove Club boys proclaimed their next project to be ‘Britalian’, I thought for certain that we would see the return of Gio Ravelli to the fold. I know a lot has happened in the social twebz in the last five years, but surely you remember the good old days when the Swiss-Italian (Swiitalian stallion?) was cooking up a storm for ...

    On March 3, 2017 / By
  • Hoppers-5
    Sri Lankan 4

    Hoppers London

    The runaway success of 2016, and for good reason, as I think this is one of those rare things that manages to live up to its hype. Hype being the operative word, as London’s restaurant bubble is today a completely trend-driven economy, based on New & Fresh, with all the trappings of fading as quickly as the rise. There is an advantage ...

    On February 24, 2017 / By
  • Extebarri-3
    One Michelin Star 9

    Asador Etxebarri, Axpe Spain

    Etxebarri is nothing more than a barbecue joint. Albeit a very good one, honing its repertoire over its 27 year history to become what some consider to be the best the World has ever seen. My own view is that this asador (or New house grill in full translation) symbolises the food culture in the Basque Country. And the Basques do know ...

    On February 10, 2017 / By
  • LAmbroisie-3
    French 8

    L’Ambroisie, Paris

    I was greeted casually by a silvering gentleman wearing a handsomely pressed gray suit, a slender fella with long arms hanging off his frame. Time has made a road map of this Frenchman’s face and turned his smartly groomed curls a shade of gunmetal grey, but I am certain that he is he; Pascal Vetaux, Directeur de Salle L’Ambroisie, est 1986. A ...

    On February 2, 2017 / By
  • CoworthPark-3
    British 3

    Restaurant Coworth Park, Ascot

    Gong xi fatt chai to you, dear reader, hope you had a good time ushering the new Lunar year of the Rooster over the weekend. We sure did by celebrating a CNY feast at this luxe getaway in Sunningdale in between Ascot and Berkshire. The centerpiece of this hotel retreat is a converted Georgian era manor house (as seen above) that dates ...

    On January 30, 2017 / By
  • MedlarJan2017-3
    French 5

    Medlar Jan 2017: Bresse chicken extravaganza

    Other meals: 2016 , 2015, 2011 Taking a cue from another loyal Medlarite, Kian, I went about organising a little off-menu extravanganza for five to cure our January ills and blues. What better way to do it than quality chicken (the best to some), and peak season melanosporum. David (O’Connor, co-owner of Medlar) put together a little menu for us, £80 for ...

    On January 26, 2017 / By
  • f4974652-8525-4e68-9a5a-9f1c9399df49-1.jpg
    French 1

    Restaurant Gordon Ramsay at 68 RHR

    This storied site has seen many gifted chefs pass through its doors over the years, starting with its previous guise as legendary La Tante Claire before Gordon Ramsay bought it from Pierre Koffmann in 1998. Aubergine transposed as it were, in all but name. Wareing, Askew, Sarge, Zazoni, Smyth – did I miss off any other talents who ran the pass for ...

    On January 24, 2017 / By