Rob & David’s eponymous restaurant has only just toasted its ten year anniversary. A decade and a bit, largely recognised as one of a handful of institutions of Iberian cooking in the business. Not forgetting the Eyre Brother’s first effort, The Eagle, which has already entered the annals of culinary legend. It predates the rise of the Brindisas and – in certain respects – is seen to have nurtured its growth. After all, Jose Pizarro did spend his first years in London with this fine establishment. The restaurant celebrates cooking from the Iberian peninsula, with the roots established in Portuguese cooking. Perhaps due in no small part to David’s upbringing in Mozambique, a former Portuguese colony.
Today, there are many luminous representatives of Iberian cooking in the city, dare I say, that Spanish cooking has hit a high level of consistency. Whatever formula that may be applied to running successful Spanish restaurants which appeal to Londoners, has been perfected. Copita, Salt Yard, Jose/Pizarro and even the post-Pizarro Brindisas just to name a few of the current crop of small plate leaders all produce lovely food. Progress is inevitable, but I believe there’s always a sense of romance when visiting restaurants with a bit of history.
The Alpine cabin ambiance does remind me a little of Pizarro – Slick yet down to earth, with a long bar which entertains a more familiar menu of tapas. One which is adamantly self-proclaimed to be set apart from the ‘ersatz’ competition for its ‘gutsy flavours’. Croquetas, gambas, prego and tinned sardines. Here, tapas certainly do read more like bar snacks than full meals.
At the dinner table, the civilised ALC is laid out as three course meals. Starters include Spatchcocked quail cooked in sherry vinegar; Pressed Madeira and Porto-marinated foie gras. For mains Portuguese baked spiced rice with duck, chourico and smoked touchino; Globe artichoke with sauteed wild garlic, swiss chard and peas on a spinach pancake; Grilled Mozambique tiger prawns piri-piri, pilaf rice, cucumber, coriander and sherry vinegar.
Anchovies, pimientos, olives, capers toast and a soft boiled egg, £7.00.
I started with something easy, opting for what essentially is anchovies on a bit of toast. The anchovies were certainly gutsy. So salty I washed down each bite with half a glass of tap water. I have to confess, the dish is a little boring, one could say it feels home-made, but with so many preserved ingredients on the same plate, I was yearning for something warm and freshly cooked (like clams).
Grilled fillet of acorn-fed Iberico Pig, marinated with smoked paprika, thyme and garlic. Patatas probres – Oven potatoes with green peppers, onions, garlic and white wine, £21.00.
This sort of pink pork was novel and bold at one time, but now its nearly commonplace. A regular fixture at Parle’s Dock Kitchen, and unsurprisingly, there’s a cut down version of simply grilled ruby red dollops of iberico fillet at Jose’s sherry bar.
I could be wrong, but this particular dish – in essence a David Eyre signature – may have kicked it all off. The pork had a wonderful fragrance about it, it certainly is not innocent like the rest of its non-acorn fed brethren, and ultimately its accompanying flavour profile is much more intense.
After all, these are cut from the prized pigs with body fat that ooze like the most complex of olive oils. Sizzling, hearty and rustic. With a buttery tenderness that melts on the fork. I noted the lovely colours of the potatoes and the juices it were bathed in. A creamy beige akin to a flowing wedding dress. Like a blushing black pig wrapped in satin. The residual heat of the potatoes were fabulous. Heavily seasoned and I hazard a guess, that it is only made more complex by absorbing some of the lovely juices from the pork. A wonder to eat.
It’s terribly elegant, classic and a sterling example of meat and potatoes. There were so many flavours swirling around the plate, but perhaps just one too many. My palate was slowly overcome with spiciness, which eventually drowned out the natural flavour of the pork. Only just approaching the wrong of queasy as I finished the plate.
Perhaps I have grown accustomed with Jose’s version served simply with a few sprinkles of paprika, and much more daringly rare than this. Then there is Nuno Mendes’ addictive version served with a savoury Portuguese bread pudding. Both in my opinion do a better job of reigning in just enough to highlight the natural awesomeness of iberico pork. I think David’s signature dish is almost too rich, by comparison.
Burnt cooked cream, £6.00
To finish, a classic cooked cream fit for St Joseph’s day! Smooth cold vanilla custard encased in a caramelised sugary roof.
I paid £45 for food and a glass of Graciano. Eyre Brothers is a certainly a solid restaurant, food is mostly good, if a touch rich, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing, for those of you who still enjoy a kip after a big meal. There is an unshakable sense of nostalgia, or more accurately, a sense that I have visited a precursor to the current state of affairs. I feel that its younger counterparts have eclipsed its classic offerings with lighter and more playful interpretations of Iberian cooking. However, it doesn’t change the fact it is still a classic.
The Gist of It
Eyre Brothers
Iberian £50pp.
70 Leonard St. EC2A 4QX
Tel : 02076135346
Tube : Old Street
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Julip – I suppose it is because I’m not limited to column space as journalists are. But also it’s probably because this is a blog. I tend to waffle on a bit and all my stuff goes out unedited. Is the length of my posts bothering you? You won’t be the first to complain though. Jay himself once said the length of my posts is verbal diarrhea.
they are too long. I end up just skimming them and looking at the pictures. The length on its own isn’t the issue, it’s the waffling. Skill in writing comes from the ability to edit well and above all maintain an interest in the reader. I get the impression that you wish to be thought of as a good writer? By the way, the St. Emilion dessert in Quo Vadis uses amaretti biscuits not macaroons. You Googler 🙂
Julip – hah! I once had those aspirations, but gotta say, Ive not tried to be a good writer in a long while. For me, I sometimes think blogging isnt writing, where the former is like scooping out a barrel of unfiltered thoughts. The only paragraphs i do edit is the last one. People tend to view pics + skip to the end,so its almost irrelevant what i say in the opening sentences.
Anyway, i will try to edit more heavily, now that youve given me a reason to do so 🙂
I like the fact that Eyre Bros is Iberian with a clear hint of colonial Mozambique in its flavours. That’s what makes it sometimes decadent. And that’s what makes their story a little more interesting to my palette than some of the more popular ‘Mondavi-fied’ Iberian fair.
Julip is utterly wrong and I’m surprised, and also rather impressed Kang, that you have indulged him. A blog is a blog. I rather like your discursions. Quite often I disagree with you or, occasionally, find parts a bit boring. But that is not the point.
It is your blog and you must post whatever you feel appropriate! It is always interesting to read what you post. Carry on writing!
everything I wrote is true. I never said he should cease to write. I just made some valid points. Simpletons are impressed by lesser things I suppose. Did you not note that he even had Jay Rayner substantiating my views? I guess your opinion overides his now and you know more about writing too?
Just because you are easily impressed, doesn’t mean the rest of us are
Julip, you are very rude and tactless and don’t seem to be at all aware of this – ask your friends or relations what they think of your contributions here if you don’t believe me.
Thank you Mary. What an astonishingly rude and unpleasant series of comments from Julip. I suspect that his writing does indeed reflect his personality which is that of a thoroughly nasty and unpleasant person.
Julip, this is Kang’s blog. He can write whatever he wants. If you don’t like what he writes, don’t read it. He’s not a professional writer, Jay Rayner is. You can’t use Rayner as a standard.
sorry your fandom blinds you to objective opinions, and moreover, valid opinions. You were a lot more rude than I was. Kang is in no danger of rivaling any entertaining or stylish writer and that’s all I was pointing out. My motive is, that he clearly aims to do so, so my criticism is constructive, whereas you defenders are just supporting your guy. My words could actually help him. Yours do nothing
Julip – i’m not subject to any fandom, so I remain objective when i say that you must have an ulterior motive, or you are not as bright as you probably think you are. these reviews are not essays – in fact, not substantially longer than many other reviews. most importantly, and this is where you really show your failure to grasp the point – they are not “stylish” “a la jay rayner” (can’t actually believe you wrote that), because Kang is not being paid to be clever, funny, pithy. he isn’t justifying his existence or high salary by being a smart arse. his reviews are personal, free flowing and truthful. i get more out of them than i would if they contained a couple of good one liners. i dont’ need them to be edited – i can spare the 5 minutes and i like to hear the writer’s thoughts. maybe you should read A A Gill, have a good chuckle at the wittyness of it all – and move on. ps don’t know kang, never met him, probably never will.
I hope you enjoy your lunch with him today, ‘tom’. If you weren’t victim to fandom, you’d have kept your trap shut. Sorry I dented your hero. I don’t mean to hurt feelings.
I like to call it when I see it. Julip is a troll – by responding to her comments you’ll fuel her enjoyment and she’ll make this a regular haunt until she gets bored.
ps. Lovely blog Kang – you know you’ve made it when you’re being trolled!
Crikey, Kang. What a debate! Well, I join you in the waffle category. My readers tell me they save my longer posts until they have a cuppa in hand and time to enjoy them. We blog for our own enjoyment as much as everyone else’s. If someone doesn’t like to read the longer bits, perhaps tumblr is a better choice of online distraction. Personally, I enjoy your posts (I like to read LONG posts about food) so keep up the good work. Yours, A Satisfied Customer.
Went last night for the first time and off the back of this review. Overall , we had a great time. My starter of asparagus and spring onions with a romesco sauce proved how great cooking can be so simple. It was faultless. I had the iberico pork for a main – aside from the fact that two pieces came out “bleu” rather than the recommended medium rare and had to be sent back, I was slightly disappointed. The seasoning of salt/rosemary was so strong that it rather masked the nuttiness of the pork itself. I could tell I was eating something good, but I don’t think I’d have identified the pork as iberico if I hadn’t known. Maybe I was just a bit unlucky and it wouldn’t stop me going again.
Quick word on the excellent Duas Quintas Douro red by the glass – comfortably worth the price. One of the better value restaurant reds I’ve had in a while.
Rob & David’s eponymous restaurant has only just toasted its ten year anniversary. A decade and a bit, largely recognised as one of a handful of institutions of Iberian cooking in the business. Not forgetting the Eyre Brother’s first effort, The Eagle, which has already entered the annals of culinary legend. It predates the rise of the Brindisas and – in certain respects – is seen to have nurtured its growth. After all, Jose Pizarro did spend his first years in London with this fine establishment. The restaurant celebrates cooking from the Iberian peninsula, with the roots established in Portuguese cooking. Perhaps due in no small part to David’s upbringing in Mozambique, a former Portuguese colony.
Today, there are many luminous representatives of Iberian cooking in the city, dare I say, that Spanish cooking has hit a high level of consistency. Whatever formula that may be applied to running successful Spanish restaurants which appeal to Londoners, has been perfected. Copita, Salt Yard, Jose/Pizarro and even the post-Pizarro Brindisas just to name a few of the current crop of small plate leaders all produce lovely food. Progress is inevitable, but I believe there’s always a sense of romance when visiting restaurants with a bit of history.
The Alpine cabin ambiance does remind me a little of Pizarro – Slick yet down to earth, with a long bar which entertains a more familiar menu of tapas. One which is adamantly self-proclaimed to be set apart from the ‘ersatz’ competition for its ‘gutsy flavours’. Croquetas, gambas, prego and tinned sardines. Here, tapas certainly do read more like bar snacks than full meals.
At the dinner table, the civilised ALC is laid out as three course meals. Starters include Spatchcocked quail cooked in sherry vinegar; Pressed Madeira and Porto-marinated foie gras. For mains Portuguese baked spiced rice with duck, chourico and smoked touchino; Globe artichoke with sauteed wild garlic, swiss chard and peas on a spinach pancake; Grilled Mozambique tiger prawns piri-piri, pilaf rice, cucumber, coriander and sherry vinegar.
Anchovies, pimientos, olives, capers toast and a soft boiled egg, £7.00.
I started with something easy, opting for what essentially is anchovies on a bit of toast. The anchovies were certainly gutsy. So salty I washed down each bite with half a glass of tap water. I have to confess, the dish is a little boring, one could say it feels home-made, but with so many preserved ingredients on the same plate, I was yearning for something warm and freshly cooked (like clams).
Grilled fillet of acorn-fed Iberico Pig, marinated with smoked paprika, thyme and garlic. Patatas probres – Oven potatoes with green peppers, onions, garlic and white wine, £21.00.
This sort of pink pork was novel and bold at one time, but now its nearly commonplace. A regular fixture at Parle’s Dock Kitchen, and unsurprisingly, there’s a cut down version of simply grilled ruby red dollops of iberico fillet at Jose’s sherry bar.
I could be wrong, but this particular dish – in essence a David Eyre signature – may have kicked it all off. The pork had a wonderful fragrance about it, it certainly is not innocent like the rest of its non-acorn fed brethren, and ultimately its accompanying flavour profile is much more intense.
After all, these are cut from the prized pigs with body fat that ooze like the most complex of olive oils. Sizzling, hearty and rustic. With a buttery tenderness that melts on the fork. I noted the lovely colours of the potatoes and the juices it were bathed in. A creamy beige akin to a flowing wedding dress. Like a blushing black pig wrapped in satin. The residual heat of the potatoes were fabulous. Heavily seasoned and I hazard a guess, that it is only made more complex by absorbing some of the lovely juices from the pork. A wonder to eat.
It’s terribly elegant, classic and a sterling example of meat and potatoes. There were so many flavours swirling around the plate, but perhaps just one too many. My palate was slowly overcome with spiciness, which eventually drowned out the natural flavour of the pork. Only just approaching the wrong of queasy as I finished the plate.
Perhaps I have grown accustomed with Jose’s version served simply with a few sprinkles of paprika, and much more daringly rare than this. Then there is Nuno Mendes’ addictive version served with a savoury Portuguese bread pudding. Both in my opinion do a better job of reigning in just enough to highlight the natural awesomeness of iberico pork. I think David’s signature dish is almost too rich, by comparison.
Burnt cooked cream, £6.00
To finish, a classic cooked cream fit for St Joseph’s day! Smooth cold vanilla custard encased in a caramelised sugary roof.
I paid £45 for food and a glass of Graciano. Eyre Brothers is a certainly a solid restaurant, food is mostly good, if a touch rich, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing, for those of you who still enjoy a kip after a big meal. There is an unshakable sense of nostalgia, or more accurately, a sense that I have visited a precursor to the current state of affairs. I feel that its younger counterparts have eclipsed its classic offerings with lighter and more playful interpretations of Iberian cooking. However, it doesn’t change the fact it is still a classic.
The Gist of It
Eyre Brothers
Iberian £50pp.
70 Leonard St. EC2A 4QX
Tel : 02076135346
Tube : Old Street
Did you enjoy reading this? You can subscribe to the Newsletter. Alternatively, you can subscribe to the RSS feed.
Comments (27)
how come you always favour writing essays instead of the more stylish/creative style of review, a la Jay Rayner or someone?
Julip – I suppose it is because I’m not limited to column space as journalists are. But also it’s probably because this is a blog. I tend to waffle on a bit and all my stuff goes out unedited. Is the length of my posts bothering you? You won’t be the first to complain though. Jay himself once said the length of my posts is verbal diarrhea.
they are too long. I end up just skimming them and looking at the pictures. The length on its own isn’t the issue, it’s the waffling. Skill in writing comes from the ability to edit well and above all maintain an interest in the reader. I get the impression that you wish to be thought of as a good writer? By the way, the St. Emilion dessert in Quo Vadis uses amaretti biscuits not macaroons. You Googler 🙂
Julip – hah! I once had those aspirations, but gotta say, Ive not tried to be a good writer in a long while. For me, I sometimes think blogging isnt writing, where the former is like scooping out a barrel of unfiltered thoughts. The only paragraphs i do edit is the last one. People tend to view pics + skip to the end,so its almost irrelevant what i say in the opening sentences.
Anyway, i will try to edit more heavily, now that youve given me a reason to do so 🙂
Go fuck yourself, it’s all good.
I like the fact that Eyre Bros is Iberian with a clear hint of colonial Mozambique in its flavours. That’s what makes it sometimes decadent. And that’s what makes their story a little more interesting to my palette than some of the more popular ‘Mondavi-fied’ Iberian fair.
Julip is utterly wrong and I’m surprised, and also rather impressed Kang, that you have indulged him. A blog is a blog. I rather like your discursions. Quite often I disagree with you or, occasionally, find parts a bit boring. But that is not the point.
It is your blog and you must post whatever you feel appropriate! It is always interesting to read what you post. Carry on writing!
everything I wrote is true. I never said he should cease to write. I just made some valid points. Simpletons are impressed by lesser things I suppose. Did you not note that he even had Jay Rayner substantiating my views? I guess your opinion overides his now and you know more about writing too?
Just because you are easily impressed, doesn’t mean the rest of us are
Julip, you are very rude and tactless and don’t seem to be at all aware of this – ask your friends or relations what they think of your contributions here if you don’t believe me.
if truth is a painful thing for you, then cover your ears and shut your eyes
Thank you Mary. What an astonishingly rude and unpleasant series of comments from Julip. I suspect that his writing does indeed reflect his personality which is that of a thoroughly nasty and unpleasant person.
I’m a girl, and you are singling me out and bullying me with pack-mentality: you and Mary, Queen of Scotties
Julip, this is Kang’s blog. He can write whatever he wants. If you don’t like what he writes, don’t read it. He’s not a professional writer, Jay Rayner is. You can’t use Rayner as a standard.
Julip – why don’t you just go a take a running jump off a very tall cliff? You don’t need to read this blog, and if you don’t like it, just piss off.
There – I’ve just been as rude to you as you were to Kang.
Kang – I gain immense pleasure from reading your blog. Please do not dare to change a thing!
sorry your fandom blinds you to objective opinions, and moreover, valid opinions. You were a lot more rude than I was. Kang is in no danger of rivaling any entertaining or stylish writer and that’s all I was pointing out. My motive is, that he clearly aims to do so, so my criticism is constructive, whereas you defenders are just supporting your guy. My words could actually help him. Yours do nothing
have you noticed, that the way I write is by a fat margin, the most interesting of anyone here?
Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!
As if.
Most interesting here? Well, well Julip. Self-deceiving as well as an obnoxious and deeply unpleasant little shit.
why are you swearing? rude boy
Julip – i’m not subject to any fandom, so I remain objective when i say that you must have an ulterior motive, or you are not as bright as you probably think you are. these reviews are not essays – in fact, not substantially longer than many other reviews. most importantly, and this is where you really show your failure to grasp the point – they are not “stylish” “a la jay rayner” (can’t actually believe you wrote that), because Kang is not being paid to be clever, funny, pithy. he isn’t justifying his existence or high salary by being a smart arse. his reviews are personal, free flowing and truthful. i get more out of them than i would if they contained a couple of good one liners. i dont’ need them to be edited – i can spare the 5 minutes and i like to hear the writer’s thoughts. maybe you should read A A Gill, have a good chuckle at the wittyness of it all – and move on. ps don’t know kang, never met him, probably never will.
I hope you enjoy your lunch with him today, ‘tom’. If you weren’t victim to fandom, you’d have kept your trap shut. Sorry I dented your hero. I don’t mean to hurt feelings.
I like to call it when I see it. Julip is a troll – by responding to her comments you’ll fuel her enjoyment and she’ll make this a regular haunt until she gets bored.
ps. Lovely blog Kang – you know you’ve made it when you’re being trolled!
What we’re all thinking but not saying is… Julip, get a life.
Crikey, Kang. What a debate! Well, I join you in the waffle category. My readers tell me they save my longer posts until they have a cuppa in hand and time to enjoy them. We blog for our own enjoyment as much as everyone else’s. If someone doesn’t like to read the longer bits, perhaps tumblr is a better choice of online distraction. Personally, I enjoy your posts (I like to read LONG posts about food) so keep up the good work. Yours, A Satisfied Customer.
Kang- I think you do a great, great job.
compared to you, he does. I just glanced at your website
Went last night for the first time and off the back of this review. Overall , we had a great time. My starter of asparagus and spring onions with a romesco sauce proved how great cooking can be so simple. It was faultless. I had the iberico pork for a main – aside from the fact that two pieces came out “bleu” rather than the recommended medium rare and had to be sent back, I was slightly disappointed. The seasoning of salt/rosemary was so strong that it rather masked the nuttiness of the pork itself. I could tell I was eating something good, but I don’t think I’d have identified the pork as iberico if I hadn’t known. Maybe I was just a bit unlucky and it wouldn’t stop me going again.
Quick word on the excellent Duas Quintas Douro red by the glass – comfortably worth the price. One of the better value restaurant reds I’ve had in a while.