The class falls silent; my eyes turn toward the fluttering curtains, Miss V’s constant chalking against the green board is fast becoming hypnotic and my eyes can barely stay open. The tummy, now rumbling like a motorcycle is in dire need of some refuelling. Is it nine thirty am yet?
Few dishes are more vivid in my memory than a packet of Nasi lemak. I refer to a packet because that’s how the old school canteen lady does it: wrapped in thick brown paper, waxy on the inside, and coarse on the outside. We used to wait – intently – for the recess bell to go, 9.30 am, and almost as soon, we’d jump up from our seats, blaze down the stairs and run the canteen. Hundreds of eager children, a harmoniously crowded wail, like a flock of birds, all of us reaching for the proverbial finish line. Panting as I approached, I remember the smell of scented chilli sweet aromas coming from the kitchen; I had always assumed it was the spicy seasoning that went into the fried chicken, and being that I was a pretty chubby little fella, I never get there first, but I always manage to push to the front.
With one hand on the counter as leverage, The other outstretched arm, little and short would be extended as far as possibly with a one dollar note at the end of that length. We were all hopeful to catch the canteen lady’s attention. Me! Me! Me!
“Two packets, two packets!!”. I am glad to come away with at least one, the rest are ‘reserved’. Closely guarded, the rice warms the packet in my hands. I walk slowly to my favourite seat in the open-air mess, unwrap my daily treasure and dive headfirst into the pickled spicy fragrance. A spoonful of the coconut infused rice, boiled egg and the magic belacan sauce…. the perfect breakfast, and only then did my day begin.
Nasi lemak loosely translates as ‘fat rice’, and – this is what we ten year olds had concluded after numerous debates – it’s known as ‘fat rice’ because it is made with sinfully delicious elements, starting with the coconut cream infused rice, salty and crunchy ikan bilis (anchovies), the ‘belacan’ : preserved spicy paste of secret home recipes, finished with sliced boiled egg.
Of course, there are many variations to this Malay dish; you can get it with curry beef, fried chicken, a fried egg, you can even get it with ‘gravy’ in fast food chains (Look up Jolibee). And depending on which part of Borneo you happen to be in, you can even find an iteration known as ‘nasi katuk’ or ‘rice on knocking’. Yes for those of you secret restaurant home lovers; these are true ‘home restaurants’ which will serve you hearty home cooked one plate meals at two in the morning….
……..Chinatown, London, 2009.
Everybody is talking about Rasa Sayang, the new darling of Malaysian restaurants. There I was, studying the menu and reading the expressions of the diners inside. The smell of this place took me back to simpler times. It was fitting that I was here to meet with two high school buddies of mine, like meeting at crossroads after not seeing them for years and hearing about what they were on to now. It was surreal seeing how people change, yet at the same time, they haven’t really. I’ve really only come for one dish; the short version: just about enough to evoke the nostalgia of 1995.
The long version: First of all, just a tad too much spiciness, my tongue was a little numb after eating it – this isn’t really a bad thing, some will enjoy this, but personally, I prefer the heat to be on the milder side. The belacan is a little sugary and there were still chewy bits, when I was expecting it to be a much smoother consistency. And if I’m really nitpicking, I think the rice could do with just a little more creaminess. I’m more used to spice and herb simmered chicken instead of a runny curry, but that’s just a personal choice. In totality, with a teh tarik full of bubbles, it was a cheerful walk down memory lane…
Rasa Sayang
Nasi Lemak at £7.00
5 Macclesfield St W1D 5
020 7734 1382
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Tags: leicester square, london, nasi lemak, rasa sayang, soho
Cute review
I thought the nasi lemak was good there, I like the spicy though. I’m planning on heading over to Satay House again (Edgeware Road), people seem to think it’s the best of the Malaysians. Will let you know how that goes!
Living in Paris which lacks in spicy food (Indian, Malay…you name it, not much of it) your post had me dribbling on my keyboard. I went there a couple of months ago and I enjoyed my rendang curry (although not as good as my mum’s
) Was a little disappointed though that they didn’t have
abc ice kacang on the menu.
Kang – I ate hear last night and had the Nasi Goreng. I was in a bit of a rush, but I’ll definitely be back for what I thought was a really enjoyable, simple meal without the need for tablecloths, tanks of fish or and pretence at all. I even got over the pictures on the menu (this screams mass-produced at me) becasue they were quote good photos.
I’m often a tad wary about going into Chinatown, as it can often be seriously hit and miss, but after ab trip to keelung last week (which was good in a more formal way) and now this, faith is restored.
Where to next?
I think Rasa Sayang “means well”. Not much more I can say really, average Malaysian food, but nothing like you can get on the streetside in KL, which says a lot really.
And @rkhooks, I LURVE ABC. The last time I had it, I was a teenager, but the memory lives on. The cool refreshing ice in bright colours, the jelly like worms from the cendol, the nuggets of sweetcorn, evaporated milk to sweeten. OMG…..I really want some.
Where did you go to school ? I’m jealous and you’re very lucky – school dinners round our way nearly put me off British food for life !
Sung – I went to School in Brunei
In addition to great Nasi Lemak, we also had really good kolo mee too! I miss my school canteen, my current company cafeteria is a bonafide kitchen nightmare!!
Tehbus – ‘Means well’ is a good way of putting it, still though, I am happy to see places like this around, I am all for good representative cuisines in London…. although I hated the curry puffs so much that I avoided blogging it. The potatoes inside tasted like banana fritters, it wasn’t good at all..
Will – Definitely try the Nasi Lemak, and yeah I like unprententious places that serve simply tasty meals too
Have you been to 32 Great Queen Street yet? Crabs on toast there are clinical.
r khooks – nothing is as good as mum’s rendang!!!
catty – I used to live in edgware road and the my uni’s m’sia society sweears by Melati…!!
Will -
What a cute story about your childhood school dinners! My school canteen wasn’t half as good as yours. Think overcooked roast beef, boiled potatoes and peas. Luckily there was lots of custard with all the puddings…
This is one of my fav Malay dishes, so simple but it can be done oh so wrong so easily! Could you believe that one place I tried it here in Sydney didn’t even have coconut infused rice@#@!!
I will definitely try this dish…I miss Malay food a lot! I am so surprised you know about Jolibee
Ana – Such is my commitment to food I suppose, I still remember trying those Jolifranks at Jolibee!
Ho – No coconut rice in Nasi Lemak?!? Unforgivable
Kang,
I it’s ikan bilis not ibis. I was on a hunt for the so called best nasi lemak in Singapore. It was at Adam Road in Singapore and they claim that their nasi lemak is so good and famous that the Sultan of Brunei would tapau. Went there to try it, all I can say is, it was so overrated.
Sani
and by the way. Have you tried Jom Makan at Pall Mall, I like their fish curry and ayam percik. Perhaps you could pay a visit next time.
Sani – whoops! thanks for that, updated to Bilis now
– thanks for the rec, will put Jom Makan on my list, Pall Mall in Trafalgar square right?
Yeap. It’s literally next to the National Gallery at Trafalgar Square.
Look forward to your next updates!
Cheers!
Hi Kang,
Great job with the blog
Just found your review on Rasa Sayang’s nasi lemak and wanted to share that I had the worst experience ever there last week, which you can read about on my blog above if you like.
I would highly recommend you give Sedap in Old Street and Malaysia Kopitiam a go as they are far superior in representing authentic Malaysian cuisine.
Keep up the good work!
x
Sam