Many attempts have been made to pigeon hole this restaurant ever since it stormed on to the London scene in late 2017, though none are accurate reflections of what to expect when you eventually sit down for a meal here. Which is great, if you like surprises, of the good kind when it comes to food and I know you do because you’re still reading this.
London has been going this way for a few years now, the heritage of Anglo-French classic craft is very much the backbone of many kitchens with serious intentions, but it is refreshing to see Chefs move away from butter and cream to embrace flavours from all over the world, guided only by what it is to make delicious food. While it is vogue for today’s European based chefs to borrow (heavily) from the Japanese (dashis, vinegars, seaweed), Jeremy Chan has chosen an altogether different route to peak umami via Jollof cuisine. It might be highly presumptuous of me to offer Jeremy as the modern day version of Olivier Roellinger; classic techniques with a growing knowledge of spices… though quite some way before Chan reaches Roellinger’s legend status.
He started out in the City with a desk and quickly got up from behind it to pursue his passion in food, with his business partner and former flatmate Iré Hassan-Odukale. Some impressive restaurants grace the 31 year old chef’s resume, stints in Hibiscus under the great Claude Bosi, then Heston’s Dinner and a stage at Rene’s mission Scandinavia temple, Noma.
This blog post assembles two snapshots in time, set one year apart, from Spring 2018 to Spring 2019, and my thoughts on how Jeremy has rapidly developed and evolved his idea of gastronomy.
On my first visit there, I was reasonably impressed by the quality of produce on display and set of spices which I’d not come across before. I had wondered if these were the flavours of Nigerian cuisine, albeit dressed up for London palates, or if it was modern European accented by African spices. Without a reference point and having never been to Africa, it was all an education for me. My impression last year was that the spicing was a little over the top and he could perhaps pay some attention to balancing the dishes – a little salt here and a little acidity there, let’s say universal things that constitute delicious.
Fast forward to 10th May 2019, one michelin star win later and things have certainly changed here. First of all, Jeremy has done away with the ALC and only does blind taster menus. If you follow their IG, you’ll see that they’ve been busy making connections with key suppliers for quality British produce and above all perhaps, the kitchen has intensified its core cuisson specifically on proteins.
And that’s how the second meal pretty much went – perfectly cooked product one after the other, and increasing so as we worked our way up to the noble proteins. Frankly it was a joy and somewhat of a surprise to see London chefs paying this much attention to the actual cookery of products all in a single meal, outside of the established places, Ledbury, Hedone and the Greenhouse. The respect and love for the ingredient was clear, translating into exacting raising to the right temperatures.
Last year I most certainly found the spices to have got in the way of the dishes, but this year however, it feels like he’s struck the right balance, spicing to enhance flavours rather than numb the palate. These guys have not stood still, and have indeed continually developed the cuisine and refined their craft. What a meal this was, and in London no less, with beautiful British produce. A triumph and every bit worthy of the Michelin star that the Bib has awarded to Jeremy and team.
Due to location, Ikoyi is most definitely not cheap, but you do get what you paid for. The normal taster menu is currently £75pp, the extended normally advertised as £100pp, but my menu costed £120pp. If in doubt, ask before you order.
Saying all this, I wholeheartedly recommend you to give Ikoyi a spin and go with an open mind. Leave aside any preconceived notions of what you think the cuisine here is. For me, I think of it as Modern European with Nigerian spices and vegetables, but the terroir is most definitely British, and it makes this very much a London restaurant. The guys have been chipping away at their little project for about 2 years now, and I think Jeremy has now begun shaping something that is both delicious and uniquely his own. Not so easy to stand out in this realm with so much Gastronomic history already cataloged today, but Jeremy and Iré have just about pulled it off.
Details of both meals below.
MAY 2019
Extended tasting menu, £120pp
1. Buttermilk plantain, raspberry salt and smoked scotch bonnet
2. Cassava cooked in duck fat, butter, then deep fried to order. Topped with calf’s brain and decent sized morel
This is one of the most delicious bites I’ve had this year. If you weren’t told, you wouldn’t know it was brain at all. This is someone who has the genius to assemble these flavours and textures together into a singular bite bursting with satisfying savouriness. Primary tastes of salty, sweet, contrast of crispy starch and creamy sauce, it’s a smart dish, surprising, exciting, simple and unique all at the same time. Jeremy, this is a winner. Everybody should go and eat this in the Spring while morels are still around to savour it.
3. Tigernut and steamed beetroot made into a seamless and luxury puree, topped with Rossini caviar
The purée bathed in a flavour deepening smoked oil, is a little sweet, like say chocolate or perhaps sweet potato, it acts as a platform for the caviar, being the key that breathes life into the dish. Salinity unlocking a satisfying contrast of earth and sea. Deceptively simple, but a lot going on in the eating. Elegant dish!
Jeremy by default uses Rossini Caviar (very good) and then Exmoor (not so good, sturgeon are more German than English if you ask me). He does also source from Hermes, N25 Caviar which is spectacular. Though he refrains from it, as the caviar is so good that actually best on its own. I love N25 (their Kaluga is mindblowing), something which I tend to agree with, unless the dish itself is pretty mild in flavour, buratta perhaps.
4. Pollack and veloute
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Peak condition pollack, spectacularly confit to perfection. The fish may be cheap, but in actual quality terms, this is pound for pound as noble as turbot.
Luscious, moist and pearlescent flakes of platinum. Jeremy was very humble about it when he brought it over, citing the minimal intervention in his application of heat, but I’m sure he knows he smashed this one out of the park. Perfect fish cookery, a joy to see London chefs respecting British catch with care and skill like this. This is what it’s all about. Crazy delicious!
5. Fried chicken, charred pickled onions and a deep chicken jus
Tekkers and then some, this is pretty much perfect chicken. Brined, taken to precisely the right temperature, the flesh is loose and yet remains incredibly juicy.
Also an interesting cut, length wise like a steak. I’m trying to work out of it’s a really big old bird, or if it’s two breasts stitched together, if the latter the effect is seamless. I wish I could make chicken this good, never gonna happen. So impressive and utterly delicious.
6. Northumberland lobster, tail grilled and served with lettuce and field peas grown in Georgia. With a salad of claw on steamed turnip cake (their version of moin-moin).
Superb dish of lobster two ways.
This tail rubbed in suya butter was grilled to a perfect mi-cuit. A healthy animal, perfect size looks about 800g, sweet with satisfying natural bite in its texture.
This light stew of field peas cooked in bacon are textured more like beans to me, it has a comfort factor similar to say feijoada, and the heartiness being a contrast to the purity of the shellfish, and the sweetness of the lettuce. The dish is assembled well, nothing in excess, everything purposeful and in balance.
The steamed veg cake simultaneously reminded me of Chinese turnip cake (Lo pak go) and a mini crumpet, topped with claws. Nips and lobster really do go well together, and yes I know you’re thinking about that one with the transparent slices and thick honey sauce, well this one is better than that one. Bonus side dish, pop it in after you finish the tail.
7. Turnip, kumquat, cassava and palm nut sauce
8. Jeremy presents his piece de résistance, rack of 5 year old sheep, slowly grilled whole, and as you can see, it’s mighty fine kit.
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The sheep is pasture raised by @chefdancox at Crocadan farm, and the quality is something of a revelation. The cap of fat is both full in its honey gold in colour as well as in flavour, signs of its healthy diet of grass. Meanwhile the meat is notably tender, and well marbled, with a rather pure and subtly sweet flavour. Jeremy remarked later that it is for this reason, he see potential to push the dry age and develop its flavour. In terms of the cook, I really love the crispy and rendered fat, gorgeous, and I thought he chose the right temperature of meat (if I had to guess, I’d say 120F?) for natural flavour, with zero juice loss.
The sauce is coffee and shito, which they described as analogous to sambal, and like anchovy to lamb, this sauce harmonised beautifully with the sheep. For acidity, a purée of mandarin and sweet potato also graced the plate.
Of course, the other of Ikoyi’s icon dishes, the smoked rice with the crab custard makes an appearance too. Served with the mains, family style, meat and rice what’s not to love. A crowd favourite I’m sure, I too love this, beautiful recipe, the savouriness simply brings a smile to my face.
9. Wild rice and fonio
Wild rice ice cream with a biscuit tuile made from Senegalese grass called fonio and excellent “chewy” mangoes that were dehydrated seeped in oil then rehydrates in honey. Amazing, well balanced pudding.
10. Walnut and grains of selim (supplement £4.5)
Roasted Walnut butter ice cream, oils and grains of selim.
We paid a total of £358.31 for two people, that’s £179pp.
APRIL 2018
Dambu Nama and whipped bone marrow tart (6.5)
Smoked crab jollof rice half portion (£12)
Fantastic rice. Laden with savouriness, laced with smoke and spiciness, while subtle does build continuously 9and considerably) with each spoonful. Couldn’t stop myself from making scoop after scoop after…
Turbot mini feast (for one), full ALC portions (£60) in two parts
Part 1: Head & collar, grilled and topped with spices, and some smoked greens, onion, on the side.
I am very excited to see fish head appear more regularly on London menus these days, because all the best bits are here! The cuisson is spot on, all the gelatinous bits sliding off the bone, and given the rich natural flavours, the spices do amazing things to temper it. I’d go as far to say it’s the best fish head I’ve had in London. Comes close to many childhood memories of fish head curries back home.
Part 2: Tranche, roasted, Mbonga and okra.
Good cook on the tranche, juicy and moist, on the bone or whole is the best way to cook turbot or any fish without question. I did have just some minor niggles as personally, I would have preferred skin on (rather than off) as there’s a lot of flavour (and gelatinous fat) there, and also prefer it was pulled just a few degreeC cooler, for a slight blush of pink in the bones (to borrow Passard’s “hot-raw”, link) , rather than all white bones.
Never had Nigerian cuisine before, I don’t have a reference point for the spices, so to me, the aromas definitely interest the palate. The turbot tranche was served with an aromatic squid ink sauce, but given the potency, it did overwhelm as I worked into the dish. I think it needs just some more salt and a touch of acidity for balance. Though it didn’t detract from the overall epicness of this spread of Turbot. Who needs a tasting menu when this noble fish is served like this for £60.
(Moan as much as you like about the prices but River Cafe (and T Randall) do very good versions of Turbot tranche in their wood fire oven too)
I love it when multiple cuts appear, hope more Chefs do this, it’s like a throwback to assiette days, and what dining out ought to be about.
Kent mango parfait, buttermilk, bush mango seed caramel. (£8.5)
Awesome pudding, sweet cooling effect just what you need after the spices.
I paid a total of £105.75 for this meal for one person.
Many attempts have been made to pigeon hole this restaurant ever since it stormed on to the London scene in late 2017, though none are accurate reflections of what to expect when you eventually sit down for a meal here. Which is great, if you like surprises, of the good kind when it comes to food and I know you do because you’re still reading this.
London has been going this way for a few years now, the heritage of Anglo-French classic craft is very much the backbone of many kitchens with serious intentions, but it is refreshing to see Chefs move away from butter and cream to embrace flavours from all over the world, guided only by what it is to make delicious food. While it is vogue for today’s European based chefs to borrow (heavily) from the Japanese (dashis, vinegars, seaweed), Jeremy Chan has chosen an altogether different route to peak umami via Jollof cuisine. It might be highly presumptuous of me to offer Jeremy as the modern day version of Olivier Roellinger; classic techniques with a growing knowledge of spices… though quite some way before Chan reaches Roellinger’s legend status.
He started out in the City with a desk and quickly got up from behind it to pursue his passion in food, with his business partner and former flatmate Iré Hassan-Odukale. Some impressive restaurants grace the 31 year old chef’s resume, stints in Hibiscus under the great Claude Bosi, then Heston’s Dinner and a stage at Rene’s mission Scandinavia temple, Noma.
This blog post assembles two snapshots in time, set one year apart, from Spring 2018 to Spring 2019, and my thoughts on how Jeremy has rapidly developed and evolved his idea of gastronomy.
On my first visit there, I was reasonably impressed by the quality of produce on display and set of spices which I’d not come across before. I had wondered if these were the flavours of Nigerian cuisine, albeit dressed up for London palates, or if it was modern European accented by African spices. Without a reference point and having never been to Africa, it was all an education for me. My impression last year was that the spicing was a little over the top and he could perhaps pay some attention to balancing the dishes – a little salt here and a little acidity there, let’s say universal things that constitute delicious.
Fast forward to 10th May 2019, one michelin star win later and things have certainly changed here. First of all, Jeremy has done away with the ALC and only does blind taster menus. If you follow their IG, you’ll see that they’ve been busy making connections with key suppliers for quality British produce and above all perhaps, the kitchen has intensified its core cuisson specifically on proteins.
And that’s how the second meal pretty much went – perfectly cooked product one after the other, and increasing so as we worked our way up to the noble proteins. Frankly it was a joy and somewhat of a surprise to see London chefs paying this much attention to the actual cookery of products all in a single meal, outside of the established places, Ledbury, Hedone and the Greenhouse. The respect and love for the ingredient was clear, translating into exacting raising to the right temperatures.
Last year I most certainly found the spices to have got in the way of the dishes, but this year however, it feels like he’s struck the right balance, spicing to enhance flavours rather than numb the palate. These guys have not stood still, and have indeed continually developed the cuisine and refined their craft. What a meal this was, and in London no less, with beautiful British produce. A triumph and every bit worthy of the Michelin star that the Bib has awarded to Jeremy and team.
Due to location, Ikoyi is most definitely not cheap, but you do get what you paid for. The normal taster menu is currently £75pp, the extended normally advertised as £100pp, but my menu costed £120pp. If in doubt, ask before you order.
Saying all this, I wholeheartedly recommend you to give Ikoyi a spin and go with an open mind. Leave aside any preconceived notions of what you think the cuisine here is. For me, I think of it as Modern European with Nigerian spices and vegetables, but the terroir is most definitely British, and it makes this very much a London restaurant. The guys have been chipping away at their little project for about 2 years now, and I think Jeremy has now begun shaping something that is both delicious and uniquely his own. Not so easy to stand out in this realm with so much Gastronomic history already cataloged today, but Jeremy and Iré have just about pulled it off.
Details of both meals below.
MAY 2019
Extended tasting menu, £120pp
1. Buttermilk plantain, raspberry salt and smoked scotch bonnet
2. Cassava cooked in duck fat, butter, then deep fried to order. Topped with calf’s brain and decent sized morel
This is one of the most delicious bites I’ve had this year. If you weren’t told, you wouldn’t know it was brain at all. This is someone who has the genius to assemble these flavours and textures together into a singular bite bursting with satisfying savouriness. Primary tastes of salty, sweet, contrast of crispy starch and creamy sauce, it’s a smart dish, surprising, exciting, simple and unique all at the same time. Jeremy, this is a winner. Everybody should go and eat this in the Spring while morels are still around to savour it.
3. Tigernut and steamed beetroot made into a seamless and luxury puree, topped with Rossini caviar
The purée bathed in a flavour deepening smoked oil, is a little sweet, like say chocolate or perhaps sweet potato, it acts as a platform for the caviar, being the key that breathes life into the dish. Salinity unlocking a satisfying contrast of earth and sea. Deceptively simple, but a lot going on in the eating. Elegant dish!
Jeremy by default uses Rossini Caviar (very good) and then Exmoor (not so good, sturgeon are more German than English if you ask me). He does also source from Hermes, N25 Caviar which is spectacular. Though he refrains from it, as the caviar is so good that actually best on its own. I love N25 (their Kaluga is mindblowing), something which I tend to agree with, unless the dish itself is pretty mild in flavour, buratta perhaps.
4. Pollack and veloute
Peak condition pollack, spectacularly confit to perfection. The fish may be cheap, but in actual quality terms, this is pound for pound as noble as turbot.
Luscious, moist and pearlescent flakes of platinum. Jeremy was very humble about it when he brought it over, citing the minimal intervention in his application of heat, but I’m sure he knows he smashed this one out of the park. Perfect fish cookery, a joy to see London chefs respecting British catch with care and skill like this. This is what it’s all about. Crazy delicious!
5. Fried chicken, charred pickled onions and a deep chicken jus
Tekkers and then some, this is pretty much perfect chicken. Brined, taken to precisely the right temperature, the flesh is loose and yet remains incredibly juicy.
Also an interesting cut, length wise like a steak. I’m trying to work out of it’s a really big old bird, or if it’s two breasts stitched together, if the latter the effect is seamless. I wish I could make chicken this good, never gonna happen. So impressive and utterly delicious.
6. Northumberland lobster, tail grilled and served with lettuce and field peas grown in Georgia. With a salad of claw on steamed turnip cake (their version of moin-moin).
Superb dish of lobster two ways.
This tail rubbed in suya butter was grilled to a perfect mi-cuit. A healthy animal, perfect size looks about 800g, sweet with satisfying natural bite in its texture.
This light stew of field peas cooked in bacon are textured more like beans to me, it has a comfort factor similar to say feijoada, and the heartiness being a contrast to the purity of the shellfish, and the sweetness of the lettuce. The dish is assembled well, nothing in excess, everything purposeful and in balance.
The steamed veg cake simultaneously reminded me of Chinese turnip cake (Lo pak go) and a mini crumpet, topped with claws. Nips and lobster really do go well together, and yes I know you’re thinking about that one with the transparent slices and thick honey sauce, well this one is better than that one. Bonus side dish, pop it in after you finish the tail.
7. Turnip, kumquat, cassava and palm nut sauce
8. Jeremy presents his piece de résistance, rack of 5 year old sheep, slowly grilled whole, and as you can see, it’s mighty fine kit.
The sheep is pasture raised by @chefdancox at Crocadan farm, and the quality is something of a revelation. The cap of fat is both full in its honey gold in colour as well as in flavour, signs of its healthy diet of grass. Meanwhile the meat is notably tender, and well marbled, with a rather pure and subtly sweet flavour. Jeremy remarked later that it is for this reason, he see potential to push the dry age and develop its flavour. In terms of the cook, I really love the crispy and rendered fat, gorgeous, and I thought he chose the right temperature of meat (if I had to guess, I’d say 120F?) for natural flavour, with zero juice loss.
The sauce is coffee and shito, which they described as analogous to sambal, and like anchovy to lamb, this sauce harmonised beautifully with the sheep. For acidity, a purée of mandarin and sweet potato also graced the plate.
Of course, the other of Ikoyi’s icon dishes, the smoked rice with the crab custard makes an appearance too. Served with the mains, family style, meat and rice what’s not to love. A crowd favourite I’m sure, I too love this, beautiful recipe, the savouriness simply brings a smile to my face.
9. Wild rice and fonio
Wild rice ice cream with a biscuit tuile made from Senegalese grass called fonio and excellent “chewy” mangoes that were dehydrated seeped in oil then rehydrates in honey. Amazing, well balanced pudding.
10. Walnut and grains of selim (supplement £4.5)
Roasted Walnut butter ice cream, oils and grains of selim.
We paid a total of £358.31 for two people, that’s £179pp.
APRIL 2018
Dambu Nama and whipped bone marrow tart (6.5)
Smoked crab jollof rice half portion (£12)
Fantastic rice. Laden with savouriness, laced with smoke and spiciness, while subtle does build continuously 9and considerably) with each spoonful. Couldn’t stop myself from making scoop after scoop after…
Turbot mini feast (for one), full ALC portions (£60) in two parts
Part 1: Head & collar, grilled and topped with spices, and some smoked greens, onion, on the side.
I am very excited to see fish head appear more regularly on London menus these days, because all the best bits are here! The cuisson is spot on, all the gelatinous bits sliding off the bone, and given the rich natural flavours, the spices do amazing things to temper it. I’d go as far to say it’s the best fish head I’ve had in London. Comes close to many childhood memories of fish head curries back home.
Part 2: Tranche, roasted, Mbonga and okra.
Good cook on the tranche, juicy and moist, on the bone or whole is the best way to cook turbot or any fish without question. I did have just some minor niggles as personally, I would have preferred skin on (rather than off) as there’s a lot of flavour (and gelatinous fat) there, and also prefer it was pulled just a few degreeC cooler, for a slight blush of pink in the bones (to borrow Passard’s “hot-raw”, link) , rather than all white bones.
Never had Nigerian cuisine before, I don’t have a reference point for the spices, so to me, the aromas definitely interest the palate. The turbot tranche was served with an aromatic squid ink sauce, but given the potency, it did overwhelm as I worked into the dish. I think it needs just some more salt and a touch of acidity for balance. Though it didn’t detract from the overall epicness of this spread of Turbot. Who needs a tasting menu when this noble fish is served like this for £60.
(Moan as much as you like about the prices but River Cafe (and T Randall) do very good versions of Turbot tranche in their wood fire oven too)
I love it when multiple cuts appear, hope more Chefs do this, it’s like a throwback to assiette days, and what dining out ought to be about.
Kent mango parfait, buttermilk, bush mango seed caramel. (£8.5)
Awesome pudding, sweet cooling effect just what you need after the spices.
I paid a total of £105.75 for this meal for one person.
restaurant details website • instagram