Pictures and descriptions from a revisit to Ben Marks’ ever improving Perilla. This time, I asked Ben if he would make his Blackbird dish which he entered for GBM 2019, to which he kindly obliged. I’ve been thoroughly impressed by the young Chef’s progression ever since he started up a few years ago in Stoke Newington. Perilla has flourished into an exciting restaurant to dine at, whilst still remaining amazingly affordable, and I have no doubt we will see more accolades go to Ben’s name as he and his business partner Matt Emmerson continue to solidify their reputation in British gastronomy.
Gurnard fried in beef fat, with pickled gooseberries, curry leaves and chip shop curry, £13
Oh my days, cracking fried fish, my local chip shop is alright actually, but nothing like this – this is proper stuff!
Amazing batter, fried to a deep golden brown, it’s crispy and bubbly (videos here)with the aroma of the tallow, old fashioned and how it ought to be. It holds well, rather than floating scraps, there’s loads of it stuck on either ends of the fish. The naturally oily gurnard steaming itself in the crust till juicy. Acidity is a hallmark of Ben’s food, the pickled gooseberries cutting all the fat and brightening up the palate. No cutlery required, break it off and dip. In the words of the great AB – Fuck, that’s delicious!
Ben’s ’Blackbird’ from GBM 2019, £25
Celebrating British music., and is so named after the Beatles song. This being his main course as part of his tribute to The White Album. I got on the DM immediately when I saw this on BBC2, had to try it!
A whole roasted quail boned out, stuffed with cooked pearl barley, shallots, hen of the woods, late season winter black truffle, lardo. It sits in a deep sauce made from mushrooms, truffle and squid ink for extra black. Finally it is finished with blackened mushroom powdered and a plum compote.
A masterpiece of a dish. It is visually striking, instantly iconic in its minimalist plating. As it is fully boned-out, it cuts easily with a dinner knife, and the earthy aroma release is superb. The craft involved is spot on. There is a huge dose of umami and the comfort factor is high. Inside the cavity, there is a layer of shaved truffle, then lardon melting into the pearl barley, all warm inside and soaking up all of the juices, analogous to say rice with Hainanese chicken (so to speak) – it gives familiar and immeasurable satisfaction.
Along with the sweet and juicy quail, the earth of the truffle and mushrooms, the lardons, the deep sauce and finally the acidity from the jam to contrast and balance. All the elements harmonise incredibly, and the eating experience is nothing short of exhilarating.
I’ve been surprised many times @perilladining , Ben is a non-stop idea factory (Eton mess tart 🤯), and this number he crafted for the GBM music theme is a blinder. This should have gone all the way! A special dish, I love it.
This isn’t on his menu, so you’ll have to ask Ben nicely if youre thinking what I’m thinking.
Thank you Ben for showing us this dish 🙏, hope to have this or versions of this again someday!
Chocolate tart with salt caramel, roasted peanuts and kelp, £8
Yet another top notch pudding, to add to Ben’s long list of hits going back to day one! Its silky smooth and extremely sinful.
Pictures and descriptions from a revisit to Ben Marks’ ever improving Perilla. This time, I asked Ben if he would make his Blackbird dish which he entered for GBM 2019, to which he kindly obliged. I’ve been thoroughly impressed by the young Chef’s progression ever since he started up a few years ago in Stoke Newington. Perilla has flourished into an exciting restaurant to dine at, whilst still remaining amazingly affordable, and I have no doubt we will see more accolades go to Ben’s name as he and his business partner Matt Emmerson continue to solidify their reputation in British gastronomy.
Gurnard fried in beef fat, with pickled gooseberries, curry leaves and chip shop curry, £13
Oh my days, cracking fried fish, my local chip shop is alright actually, but nothing like this – this is proper stuff!
Amazing batter, fried to a deep golden brown, it’s crispy and bubbly (videos here)with the aroma of the tallow, old fashioned and how it ought to be. It holds well, rather than floating scraps, there’s loads of it stuck on either ends of the fish. The naturally oily gurnard steaming itself in the crust till juicy. Acidity is a hallmark of Ben’s food, the pickled gooseberries cutting all the fat and brightening up the palate. No cutlery required, break it off and dip. In the words of the great AB – Fuck, that’s delicious!
Ben’s ’Blackbird’ from GBM 2019, £25
Celebrating British music., and is so named after the Beatles song. This being his main course as part of his tribute to The White Album. I got on the DM immediately when I saw this on BBC2, had to try it!
A whole roasted quail boned out, stuffed with cooked pearl barley, shallots, hen of the woods, late season winter black truffle, lardo. It sits in a deep sauce made from mushrooms, truffle and squid ink for extra black. Finally it is finished with blackened mushroom powdered and a plum compote.
A masterpiece of a dish. It is visually striking, instantly iconic in its minimalist plating. As it is fully boned-out, it cuts easily with a dinner knife, and the earthy aroma release is superb. The craft involved is spot on. There is a huge dose of umami and the comfort factor is high. Inside the cavity, there is a layer of shaved truffle, then lardon melting into the pearl barley, all warm inside and soaking up all of the juices, analogous to say rice with Hainanese chicken (so to speak) – it gives familiar and immeasurable satisfaction.
Along with the sweet and juicy quail, the earth of the truffle and mushrooms, the lardons, the deep sauce and finally the acidity from the jam to contrast and balance. All the elements harmonise incredibly, and the eating experience is nothing short of exhilarating.
I’ve been surprised many times @perilladining , Ben is a non-stop idea factory (Eton mess tart 🤯), and this number he crafted for the GBM music theme is a blinder. This should have gone all the way! A special dish, I love it.
This isn’t on his menu, so you’ll have to ask Ben nicely if youre thinking what I’m thinking.
Thank you Ben for showing us this dish 🙏, hope to have this or versions of this again someday!
Chocolate tart with salt caramel, roasted peanuts and kelp, £8
Yet another top notch pudding, to add to Ben’s long list of hits going back to day one! Its silky smooth and extremely sinful.
restaurant details: website • instagram