L’Arpège, Paris. May 2019

Other visits: Nov 2018 • April 2018 • Nov 2017 • June 2016 • April 2016 The 2019 prices have risen nearly across the board, though quality remains ever so high here at L’Arpege. Spontaneity and creativity reign supreme, Passard and his kitchen still immensely spirited in their practice of…

L’Arpege, Nov 2018

other visits: May 2019 • April 2018 • Nov 2017 • June 2016 • April 2016 This time out at Rue Varenne, it was a full-on ALC affair, in the deep Autumn of 2018, during which arguably the best White Truffle season in memory was in full swing. The Celerisotto…

Florilege Tokyo <-> logy Taipei

Having followed the rise of Restaurant Florilege with great interest for the last few years, I’m glad to have finally made it not just to honten, but also to the crew’s sister restaurant located in Daan, Taipei. I’m certain you’ve already come across Hiroyasu Kawate,…

Wagyu Mafia, OAD2018 London

It’s been over a year since Wagyu Mafia crew were in London to ‘perform’ (in their vernacular) a one-off event (titled Grilleasy) for the OAD awards ceremony for the 2018 revision. This year Steve is in food heaven Donostia to announce the 2019 list. It…

Sorrel Restaurant, Dorking

There were many highlights in my 2018 calendar, though the one that stands out is without a doubt Sorrel. Steve Drake is someone whose been round the block, yet because he has operated outside of London for most of his career as head chef, he…

Perilla – March 2019 GBM Blackbird Special

Pictures and descriptions from a revisit to Ben Marks’ ever improving Perilla. This time, I asked Ben if he would make his Blackbird dish which he entered for GBM 2019, to which he kindly obliged. I’ve been thoroughly impressed by the young Chef’s progression ever…

Frantzén x Bosi at Bibendum

Bjorn Frantzén was in London for one night only, pitching up at Bibendum’s on a tuesday night in May to do a collaboration with our Claude Bosi. I was rather excited about it, a dinner with two two leading lights in gastronomy at the peak…

Ikoyi London – 2019/2018

Many attempts have been made to pigeon hole this restaurant ever since it stormed on to the London scene in late 2017, though none are accurate reflections of what to expect when you eventually sit down for a meal here. Which is great, if you…

Tom Kemble at The Pass, South Lodge Horsham

Finally after months of anticipation, the great Tom Kemble has unveiled his next move in his culinary career. As you know, I was a loyal fan of Bonhams Restaurant, and in a state when Tom decided to leave the restaurant (and London) in the Summer…

ScrambledKang – Native lobster season 2018

Gazpacho, BBQ Scottish lobster, datterini, English peas, avocado, capezzana olive oil, coriander. Native lobster tail, blood peach, chives, paprika, Capezzana EVOO. Dorset lobster, coral cognac sauce, blood peach, chives, capezzana olive oil, cayenne pepper. Lobster soup. A simple pleasure, and one of my favourite things.…

Dersou Paris – Sunday Brunch

…I really didn’t expect to be, but came away very impressed by this brunch. Gyu don was comfort food 101, some kaffir lime in the bowl of beef and onions on rice. Will have to pop back in for a proper dinner at some point.…

Levan

I am a huge fan of Jackson Boxer, as I think his food is modern in that it possesses the right mix of craft, creativity and cool. His link to this restaurant is through Levan’s owner, Nicholas Balfe, who was once upon a time his…