…It was with a heavy heart that I dined at Londrino for the last time in February this year. It was one of my favourite new openings in London, as it stood apart from the mass market IG-friendly model, here was a Chef interested in developing a cuisine and identity that was uniquely his own. It was Portuguese, but modern, textured and charged with acidity in the way say Taiwanese cuisine is (however unintentional) and reaching his end goals with classic technique, but slowed all the way down, long ageing his proteins, fermenting and also slow cooking his vegetables through application of very low heat sometimes over weeks. You guys are well versed with Japan and France, but the flavours that excited Leo were altogether less common in London. During this time, I witnessed some incredible new combinations and layering of flavours which I’d not seen anywhere else before. Though there were a few things that pushed the boundaries even for me, on the whole however, it was an experience visiting Leo, as there was always something different on the table. I thought then that perhaps it was only time required for London to catch up with Leo’s creativity, but alas Leo decided to call time on it. Location and size didn’t help as foot fall was nearly non-existent, and that was the dagger that closed Londrino’s doors 18 months later.
Though as one door closes, another one has opened, behind it is Alex Hunter, one half of the Bonnie Gull ownership. Sited at Pavillion road in the fringes of Chlesea…. a little like Chelsea’s version of Spa Terminus. There’s a Natoora and Bread Ahead, a butcher that carries Galician Blondes and Iberico and there’s this fish bar that seemingly fits right in the crowd.
The Sea, The Sea – so named after the Irish Murdoch book – for all the jazzed up interiors is actually a rather modest proposition – a fish shop by the day, and a (mostly raw) seafood bar by night.
Leo’s role here is as Executive Chef for the food menu (which is to say he’s not here everyday), though expectedly he brings with him some of his ex-staff from Londrino. The major difference between then and now is that he and his kitchen team are now handicapped in terms of kit, as compared to the spaceship laboratory kitchen that was Londrino. But such is the irony of life, sometimes less is more. With only a couple of portable hobs to steam shellfish and a few blowtorches to aburi and to quick smoke fillets, it has channeled Leo’s creativity in a focused manner, resulting in some smart, simple but no less creative dishes.
In some ways this is like his days cooking in the outdoors kitchen at Climpson’s Arch, working within confines to liberate his cuisine, with seafood being close to his heart, due in no small part to his coastal upbringing, and then latterly during his time cooking in the Basque.
It is a joy to see Leo C back in the game, he has such deep knowledge, with his creative streak, it will be exciting to follow his continually developing cuisine. As mentioned, there are no stoves here, it is very much like Leo’s sushi ya, you’ll see him shucking oysters, dishing up his crudos, showcasing his tsukemono (all pickled in house) and opening up fillets of fish which he dry ages over salt right here in the shop.
There is something special about this place. Maybe it’s because of the kitchen limits, perhaps it is that Alex himself is also committed to the site. Like a pet project, it has great energy, the simplicity of their food menu exactly the right counterpoint and confines for Leo to apply his intervention. Most of all at the sharp end of the business, it fits right in the neighborhood. If you love the odd seafood binge with your bubbly, you might like it here, and also be pleasantly surprised encountering the occasional flavour pairing revelation in Leo’s various cold preps.
They’ve only just opened (in late April) and I’ve visited twice already. The first in late May during lunch time, where they do a short snacks menu with oysters, sashimi and a select few dishes. Dinner has the longer ALC menu with a bit more cooked food, and puddings.
I paid about £45 for the first lunch visit.
The second time was on the first monday of June , when Leo and Alex ran their very first masterclass – on native lobster. Led by Leo, giving commentary as he killed, cooked and prepared the dishes live and on the spot for an small group of 8 (strangers). It was intimate, priced well (£120pp all in, including booze and service), respectful of the mighty native lobster, now in peak season, and it was banging. The first of many I’m sure, well worth your time going to one.
I paid £120pp for the lobster masterclass, all inclusive.
Ok then, enough rambling, pictures and descriptions below.
For this masterclass, Leo started things with his tsukemono and some Jersey rock oysters, with the house pickled beet vinaigrette and crushed hazlenuts.
Live native lobsters from Cornwall were used for this masterclass. Very healthy ones too, all females.
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1. Lobster sashimi with pear and kombucha vinaigrette.
Leo killed the lobster in front of us, humanely knife down the head, and then made sashimi after shelling the tail.
2. Lobster ‘sandwich’
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A lobster “sandwich” made from sushi rice that sat on a squid ink spring roll dough, with lemon and orange zest, apricots dehydrated and rehydrated in kombu, toasted garlic scapes, a “pate” from coral tossed with lobster tail meat. Blows my mind how Leo manages to create all these dishes, the layering of flavours, textures, non conventional but all grounded in extracting max umami.
3. Steamed lobster with onions and egg sauce
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Whole lobster tied tail to rostum a la L’Arpege and then steamed la minute to a perfect mi-cuit. After shelling the tail and claws, he cut the tail and claws up into large chunks. The frontal tails were roughly chopped up – with traces of green from its coral – like a tartare and placed this at the bottom of each plate. The rest of the tail and claws were returned to the pot for one final steam prior to plating up, with all the residual juices also poured into the plate.
Served with steamed onions and an illuminating non-sabayon of yolks cooked at 66degC with dashi and just a touch of raw ginger. Low intervention, exceptionally healthy lobsters, and a phenomenal sauce with the rich flavour of yolks, light texture and the subtle ginger just tempers everything, leaving a clean finish. Superb.
4. Seaweed waffles with lemon curstard and olive oil
May 2019
1. Potatoes, cod and coriander oil
You know this, one of Leo’s genius dishes, and one of my all time favourites. Cod, coriander oil, potato noodles, so simple but utterly amazing – salt, the acidity, the sweetness and the textures, a dish that has it all.
2. Sashimi platter
3. Scallop, savoury nutella tart
A little crisp topped with fresh, sweet scallops, salt, and a savoury nutella (hazelnut, cocoa, coconut, rice vinegar, etc) made in the morning by Leo. A simple but sensational exercise of layers and texture!
4. Tuna belly and smoked horseradish cream
An amazing dish of tuna belly, cherries, asparagus with a lightly smoked horseradish cream and a ‘water’ of pimento. Gently tingling the front of the palate, cooling sweetness and then the fat of the belly, a revelation by Renato, Leo’s right hand man here.
…It was with a heavy heart that I dined at Londrino for the last time in February this year. It was one of my favourite new openings in London, as it stood apart from the mass market IG-friendly model, here was a Chef interested in developing a cuisine and identity that was uniquely his own. It was Portuguese, but modern, textured and charged with acidity in the way say Taiwanese cuisine is (however unintentional) and reaching his end goals with classic technique, but slowed all the way down, long ageing his proteins, fermenting and also slow cooking his vegetables through application of very low heat sometimes over weeks. You guys are well versed with Japan and France, but the flavours that excited Leo were altogether less common in London. During this time, I witnessed some incredible new combinations and layering of flavours which I’d not seen anywhere else before. Though there were a few things that pushed the boundaries even for me, on the whole however, it was an experience visiting Leo, as there was always something different on the table. I thought then that perhaps it was only time required for London to catch up with Leo’s creativity, but alas Leo decided to call time on it. Location and size didn’t help as foot fall was nearly non-existent, and that was the dagger that closed Londrino’s doors 18 months later.
Though as one door closes, another one has opened, behind it is Alex Hunter, one half of the Bonnie Gull ownership. Sited at Pavillion road in the fringes of Chlesea…. a little like Chelsea’s version of Spa Terminus. There’s a Natoora and Bread Ahead, a butcher that carries Galician Blondes and Iberico and there’s this fish bar that seemingly fits right in the crowd.
The Sea, The Sea – so named after the Irish Murdoch book – for all the jazzed up interiors is actually a rather modest proposition – a fish shop by the day, and a (mostly raw) seafood bar by night.
Leo’s role here is as Executive Chef for the food menu (which is to say he’s not here everyday), though expectedly he brings with him some of his ex-staff from Londrino. The major difference between then and now is that he and his kitchen team are now handicapped in terms of kit, as compared to the spaceship laboratory kitchen that was Londrino. But such is the irony of life, sometimes less is more. With only a couple of portable hobs to steam shellfish and a few blowtorches to aburi and to quick smoke fillets, it has channeled Leo’s creativity in a focused manner, resulting in some smart, simple but no less creative dishes.
In some ways this is like his days cooking in the outdoors kitchen at Climpson’s Arch, working within confines to liberate his cuisine, with seafood being close to his heart, due in no small part to his coastal upbringing, and then latterly during his time cooking in the Basque.
It is a joy to see Leo C back in the game, he has such deep knowledge, with his creative streak, it will be exciting to follow his continually developing cuisine. As mentioned, there are no stoves here, it is very much like Leo’s sushi ya, you’ll see him shucking oysters, dishing up his crudos, showcasing his tsukemono (all pickled in house) and opening up fillets of fish which he dry ages over salt right here in the shop.
There is something special about this place. Maybe it’s because of the kitchen limits, perhaps it is that Alex himself is also committed to the site. Like a pet project, it has great energy, the simplicity of their food menu exactly the right counterpoint and confines for Leo to apply his intervention. Most of all at the sharp end of the business, it fits right in the neighborhood. If you love the odd seafood binge with your bubbly, you might like it here, and also be pleasantly surprised encountering the occasional flavour pairing revelation in Leo’s various cold preps.
They’ve only just opened (in late April) and I’ve visited twice already. The first in late May during lunch time, where they do a short snacks menu with oysters, sashimi and a select few dishes. Dinner has the longer ALC menu with a bit more cooked food, and puddings.
I paid about £45 for the first lunch visit.
The second time was on the first monday of June , when Leo and Alex ran their very first masterclass – on native lobster. Led by Leo, giving commentary as he killed, cooked and prepared the dishes live and on the spot for an small group of 8 (strangers). It was intimate, priced well (£120pp all in, including booze and service), respectful of the mighty native lobster, now in peak season, and it was banging. The first of many I’m sure, well worth your time going to one.
I paid £120pp for the lobster masterclass, all inclusive.
Ok then, enough rambling, pictures and descriptions below.
Restaurant website • instagram
Lobster Masterclass – June 2019
For this masterclass, Leo started things with his tsukemono and some Jersey rock oysters, with the house pickled beet vinaigrette and crushed hazlenuts.
Live native lobsters from Cornwall were used for this masterclass. Very healthy ones too, all females.
1. Lobster sashimi with pear and kombucha vinaigrette.
Leo killed the lobster in front of us, humanely knife down the head, and then made sashimi after shelling the tail.
2. Lobster ‘sandwich’
A lobster “sandwich” made from sushi rice that sat on a squid ink spring roll dough, with lemon and orange zest, apricots dehydrated and rehydrated in kombu, toasted garlic scapes, a “pate” from coral tossed with lobster tail meat. Blows my mind how Leo manages to create all these dishes, the layering of flavours, textures, non conventional but all grounded in extracting max umami.
3. Steamed lobster with onions and egg sauce
Whole lobster tied tail to rostum a la L’Arpege and then steamed la minute to a perfect mi-cuit. After shelling the tail and claws, he cut the tail and claws up into large chunks. The frontal tails were roughly chopped up – with traces of green from its coral – like a tartare and placed this at the bottom of each plate. The rest of the tail and claws were returned to the pot for one final steam prior to plating up, with all the residual juices also poured into the plate.
Served with steamed onions and an illuminating non-sabayon of yolks cooked at 66degC with dashi and just a touch of raw ginger. Low intervention, exceptionally healthy lobsters, and a phenomenal sauce with the rich flavour of yolks, light texture and the subtle ginger just tempers everything, leaving a clean finish. Superb.
4. Seaweed waffles with lemon curstard and olive oil
May 2019
1. Potatoes, cod and coriander oil
You know this, one of Leo’s genius dishes, and one of my all time favourites. Cod, coriander oil, potato noodles, so simple but utterly amazing – salt, the acidity, the sweetness and the textures, a dish that has it all.
2. Sashimi platter
3. Scallop, savoury nutella tart
A little crisp topped with fresh, sweet scallops, salt, and a savoury nutella (hazelnut, cocoa, coconut, rice vinegar, etc) made in the morning by Leo. A simple but sensational exercise of layers and texture!
4. Tuna belly and smoked horseradish cream
An amazing dish of tuna belly, cherries, asparagus with a lightly smoked horseradish cream and a ‘water’ of pimento. Gently tingling the front of the palate, cooling sweetness and then the fat of the belly, a revelation by Renato, Leo’s right hand man here.
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