I had written about Bosi’s then new digs in the house of Bib in 2017 just before they refreshed his double stars, and thought then that the opening year at two stars was the right call, with a feeling that more was simmering in the basement. I gave it some time before returning, about a year to be exact, and picking up from that point, I now find that since the 2 stars, the team have been travelling along a comfortable trajectory, settling in incredibly well and knocking out consistently high level flavour bombs which the best Claude Bosi dishes are known for. Claude’s right hand is Franco Otto, who as I understand it, has been with the flamboyant Frenchman since his Hibiscus Maddox days. A very capable pair of hands to have in the kitchen.
I went back in October and then again in December of 2018, and was utterly gobsmacked by the quality of cooking. There is now freedom in Bosi’s cuisine, more classic, a little more casual, less boundary pushing, with some of his classics dusted off, tweaked and rebooted (retroed I guess), in some ways similar to what Phil’s done with his own classics re-appearing at Elystan Street, a stone’s throw away. I feel the need to repeat this, Claude’s cuisine has matured in a very distinguished way and is in a very good spot right now. On this form and if he continues blazing the trail, the third star that has eluded him all these years might actually be reality very soon.
A while ago there was a little ceremony about Bosi (literally) tearing up the taster menu, doing away with rigidity, formality, and offering only the ALC. He’s since brought back the taster menu as an option here, but I think you should skip it, and say that the best way to eat at Bibendum is to go the whole hog for the ALC. The lobster is served whole (or portioned two ways as we did below), and the whole Bresse chicken is a marvel that might even make Bernie Pacaud raise an eyebrow. It is not cheap of course (around £200 per meal below, the wine mark-ups, i’ll dig out the receipts if you need to know), but it will be worth it.
Anyway, I’ve assembled the pictures and notes from the two visits below.
ALC, October 2018
1. Duck jelly, smoked sturgeon, very light and carefully piped filo cigar and topped with shimmering Daurenki.
I must say the hybrid grains are pretty fantastic, rather creamy, with a medium pop which I really enjoy. The consommé jelly and the mousse, executed perfectly, becomes a platform for the caviar to shine, nothing over, nothing under, all its components working together in perfect harmony. I really loved this. A pure dish, it is elevated simplicity.
2. Adour foie, pear and liquorice.
The resulting silkened, yielding texture from a long slow cook is absolutely phenomenal, making you forget its a mighty big piece, as it disintegrates on the palate. Last year I had this with cauliflower and coriander, but I much prefer this Hibiscus classic, as @gen.u.ine.ness pointed out. Freshness abound, with the pear three ways and the undertones of liquorice as a foil to the fat, it is refined to a tee. An electric dish, controlled richness and utter perfection.
3. Scotttish lobster tail, Singaporean pepper sauce, babajuans filled with lobster claw.
Paired with an excellent 06 Corton GC from Dom. Follin-Arbelet
Firstly, the slow cooked lobster is timed to imo the perfect temperature – a touch translucent and crunchy, and texture just starting to firm up. The pepper sauce clearly inspired by Claude’s travels and well known love of Singapore and Peranakan cuisine.
Redolent of sauce that goes with classic Cantonese black pepper steak, the pairing here of peppery persistence (plus the richness from presumably lobster+veal stock, maybe oyster sauce?) alongside the noble crustacean’s natural depth of flavour as well as the aforementioned mi-cuit texture, resulted in a visceral and racy eating experience. Immense sauce making no doubt.
The yuzu gel, pickles, chilli tempering the richness of the dish with accents of freshness. I loved the lightly spiced claw barbarjuans, they remind me of curry puffs, though a posh version with lobster and tingles of what I can only speculate is down to trio of chilli/garlic/ginger. A simple thing, and itself a succesful blending of east and west.
The pairing of the pepper sauce with the lobster was a true revelation, it encapsulates Claude’s cuisine: bold, robust and exciting flavours, executed perfectly and walks that very fine line of balance with the little touches of acidity. Pascal Barbot is of course a master in his incorporation of Asian flavours, but Pascal’s love of citrus as a whole, doesn’t have the sheer emotion that Claude’s lobster has, as for me, this brought back rose-tinted memories of home. As is obvious, it’s my first time with this having not tried it at Hibiscus, but I’m glad I finally did now and it is without question a true masterpiece ⭐️⭐️⭐️ .
4. Whole roast chicken “de Bresse” with tarragon jus, in 2 servings.
Second: Leg, chicken oyster and a frisée with a light vinaigrette.
An epic roast chicken that certainly lived up to the bird’s hallowed provenance, presentation, and silverware. Especially with this superb jus gras bejewelled with large globules of fat and thus bags of chicken flavour. A loving roast on the bird, juicy breasts, and if not mistaken, with tarragon butter tucked underneath its skin, plenty of flavour abound. The beans were fab, with fresh chives run through it adding freshness to its texture, and finally there was the luxurious potato purée – Undoubtedly done the old fashioned way through the tamis and with the 50/50 butter ratio, plus more jus over it, JR would surely have been impressed. What a meal!
5. Banana and Cep Vacherin. Yes, mushrooms, and yes Bosi is bold but he’s now older, wiser and moved on from his Hibiscus days and when it does work, it really is genius.
I loved this dish, that beurre blanc was just superb. With smokiness and touch of curry that imparts such complexity as it liaises with the bursts of briny umami from the caviar, meanwhile the acidity from the lemon caviar kept the palate clean and fresh. So delicious I moped it all up with bread. And of course, all this serves as a platform to cushion the sweetness and texture of those raw Moorecambe bay prawns. I suppose is a similar species to prawns caught in Mylor. Nothing is wasted, the deep fried heads are coated in a powder made from the dehydrated shells, where all of its natural flavour reside.
This Claude Bosi signature is an absolute tour de force in craft, respect for produce and class ⭐️⭐️⭐️ (Ps: there’s this video floating online of Claude demoing this dish, well worth a look).
2. Duo of the the 2018 white truffle – the best season in recent memory. These two dishes served one after another was pure magic.
House made orecchiette, cured egg yolk shavings, toasted rice emulsion
Firstly the pasta, made in house and cooked al dente, were plump, glossy and soaked up all of the emulsion that had this depth of flavour akin to the toasted rice found at the base of say a dolsot, but subtle enough that it accentuated the grand white truffle’s aroma and never got in its way. It had me nearly in tears.
Angulas, light beurre blanc sauce.
And then came the baby eels, a rare treat in itself, served simply in a warm broth, white truffle. Like a bowl of perfect noodles, purity, harmony of texture and flavour. I shed internal tears as I slurped up the last drop of the eel infused broth, it was gastronomic nirvana. I loved it.
This is one of two best memories of the great 2018 white truffle season. The other quite fittingly being Alain Passard’s celerisotto+comte at L’Arpege, an example of his genius with vegetables.
3. Lunch carvery of lamb shoulder, shiny jus with coriander and chilli, gratin potatoes and a side of hot vegetables.
I was really curious about their roast option, which rotates with each lunch service, I like that sort of old fashioned thing and it sure was satisfying. Beautifully slow roasted lamb shoulder till melting tender, perfect jus, a mighty portion to boot. Vegetables were impressive, lightly cooked and coated in butter and fresh chives. Hugely satisfying. The course alone is a meal unto itself plus the table side carving by @molino_enrico. For £25, great value for money.
4. Almond sponge soaked in whisky, marron glace creme, lollipop of iced mulled wine and poached pear.
Restaurant Details: website instagram
I had written about Bosi’s then new digs in the house of Bib in 2017 just before they refreshed his double stars, and thought then that the opening year at two stars was the right call, with a feeling that more was simmering in the basement. I gave it some time before returning, about a year to be exact, and picking up from that point, I now find that since the 2 stars, the team have been travelling along a comfortable trajectory, settling in incredibly well and knocking out consistently high level flavour bombs which the best Claude Bosi dishes are known for. Claude’s right hand is Franco Otto, who as I understand it, has been with the flamboyant Frenchman since his Hibiscus Maddox days. A very capable pair of hands to have in the kitchen.
I went back in October and then again in December of 2018, and was utterly gobsmacked by the quality of cooking. There is now freedom in Bosi’s cuisine, more classic, a little more casual, less boundary pushing, with some of his classics dusted off, tweaked and rebooted (retroed I guess), in some ways similar to what Phil’s done with his own classics re-appearing at Elystan Street, a stone’s throw away. I feel the need to repeat this, Claude’s cuisine has matured in a very distinguished way and is in a very good spot right now. On this form and if he continues blazing the trail, the third star that has eluded him all these years might actually be reality very soon.
A while ago there was a little ceremony about Bosi (literally) tearing up the taster menu, doing away with rigidity, formality, and offering only the ALC. He’s since brought back the taster menu as an option here, but I think you should skip it, and say that the best way to eat at Bibendum is to go the whole hog for the ALC. The lobster is served whole (or portioned two ways as we did below), and the whole Bresse chicken is a marvel that might even make Bernie Pacaud raise an eyebrow. It is not cheap of course (around £200 per meal below, the wine mark-ups, i’ll dig out the receipts if you need to know), but it will be worth it.
Anyway, I’ve assembled the pictures and notes from the two visits below.
ALC, October 2018
1. Duck jelly, smoked sturgeon, very light and carefully piped filo cigar and topped with shimmering Daurenki.
I must say the hybrid grains are pretty fantastic, rather creamy, with a medium pop which I really enjoy. The consommé jelly and the mousse, executed perfectly, becomes a platform for the caviar to shine, nothing over, nothing under, all its components working together in perfect harmony. I really loved this. A pure dish, it is elevated simplicity.
2. Adour foie, pear and liquorice.
The resulting silkened, yielding texture from a long slow cook is absolutely phenomenal, making you forget its a mighty big piece, as it disintegrates on the palate. Last year I had this with cauliflower and coriander, but I much prefer this Hibiscus classic, as @gen.u.ine.ness pointed out. Freshness abound, with the pear three ways and the undertones of liquorice as a foil to the fat, it is refined to a tee. An electric dish, controlled richness and utter perfection.
3. Scotttish lobster tail, Singaporean pepper sauce, babajuans filled with lobster claw.
Paired with an excellent 06 Corton GC from Dom. Follin-Arbelet
Firstly, the slow cooked lobster is timed to imo the perfect temperature – a touch translucent and crunchy, and texture just starting to firm up. The pepper sauce clearly inspired by Claude’s travels and well known love of Singapore and Peranakan cuisine.
Redolent of sauce that goes with classic Cantonese black pepper steak, the pairing here of peppery persistence (plus the richness from presumably lobster+veal stock, maybe oyster sauce?) alongside the noble crustacean’s natural depth of flavour as well as the aforementioned mi-cuit texture, resulted in a visceral and racy eating experience. Immense sauce making no doubt.
The yuzu gel, pickles, chilli tempering the richness of the dish with accents of freshness. I loved the lightly spiced claw barbarjuans, they remind me of curry puffs, though a posh version with lobster and tingles of what I can only speculate is down to trio of chilli/garlic/ginger. A simple thing, and itself a succesful blending of east and west.
The pairing of the pepper sauce with the lobster was a true revelation, it encapsulates Claude’s cuisine: bold, robust and exciting flavours, executed perfectly and walks that very fine line of balance with the little touches of acidity. Pascal Barbot is of course a master in his incorporation of Asian flavours, but Pascal’s love of citrus as a whole, doesn’t have the sheer emotion that Claude’s lobster has, as for me, this brought back rose-tinted memories of home. As is obvious, it’s my first time with this having not tried it at Hibiscus, but I’m glad I finally did now and it is without question a true masterpiece ⭐️⭐️⭐️ .
4. Whole roast chicken “de Bresse” with tarragon jus, in 2 servings.
Table side carvery by FOH @molino_enrico
First: Breast, coco paimpol, potato purée.
Second: Leg, chicken oyster and a frisée with a light vinaigrette.
An epic roast chicken that certainly lived up to the bird’s hallowed provenance, presentation, and silverware. Especially with this superb jus gras bejewelled with large globules of fat and thus bags of chicken flavour. A loving roast on the bird, juicy breasts, and if not mistaken, with tarragon butter tucked underneath its skin, plenty of flavour abound. The beans were fab, with fresh chives run through it adding freshness to its texture, and finally there was the luxurious potato purée – Undoubtedly done the old fashioned way through the tamis and with the 50/50 butter ratio, plus more jus over it, JR would surely have been impressed. What a meal!
5. Banana and Cep Vacherin. Yes, mushrooms, and yes Bosi is bold but he’s now older, wiser and moved on from his Hibiscus days and when it does work, it really is genius.
—-
ALC, Dec 2018
1. Moorecambe prawns, smoked beurre blanc, Petrossian Daurenki, and lemon caviar
I loved this dish, that beurre blanc was just superb. With smokiness and touch of curry that imparts such complexity as it liaises with the bursts of briny umami from the caviar, meanwhile the acidity from the lemon caviar kept the palate clean and fresh. So delicious I moped it all up with bread. And of course, all this serves as a platform to cushion the sweetness and texture of those raw Moorecambe bay prawns. I suppose is a similar species to prawns caught in Mylor. Nothing is wasted, the deep fried heads are coated in a powder made from the dehydrated shells, where all of its natural flavour reside.
This Claude Bosi signature is an absolute tour de force in craft, respect for produce and class ⭐️⭐️⭐️ (Ps: there’s this video floating online of Claude demoing this dish, well worth a look).
2. Duo of the the 2018 white truffle – the best season in recent memory. These two dishes served one after another was pure magic.
House made orecchiette, cured egg yolk shavings, toasted rice emulsion
Firstly the pasta, made in house and cooked al dente, were plump, glossy and soaked up all of the emulsion that had this depth of flavour akin to the toasted rice found at the base of say a dolsot, but subtle enough that it accentuated the grand white truffle’s aroma and never got in its way. It had me nearly in tears.
Angulas, light beurre blanc sauce.
And then came the baby eels, a rare treat in itself, served simply in a warm broth, white truffle. Like a bowl of perfect noodles, purity, harmony of texture and flavour. I shed internal tears as I slurped up the last drop of the eel infused broth, it was gastronomic nirvana. I loved it.
This is one of two best memories of the great 2018 white truffle season. The other quite fittingly being Alain Passard’s celerisotto+comte at L’Arpege, an example of his genius with vegetables.
3. Lunch carvery of lamb shoulder, shiny jus with coriander and chilli, gratin potatoes and a side of hot vegetables.
I was really curious about their roast option, which rotates with each lunch service, I like that sort of old fashioned thing and it sure was satisfying. Beautifully slow roasted lamb shoulder till melting tender, perfect jus, a mighty portion to boot. Vegetables were impressive, lightly cooked and coated in butter and fresh chives. Hugely satisfying. The course alone is a meal unto itself plus the table side carving by @molino_enrico. For £25, great value for money.
4. Almond sponge soaked in whisky, marron glace creme, lollipop of iced mulled wine and poached pear.
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