Perilla, Mar/Apr 2018

Since my first visit, I have become very fond of this restaurant in Stoke Newington and have visited them on average once every two months in the past year. Opened by two passionate young guns, who I feel are at the very beginning of a bright career in hospitality ahead. Chef Ben Marks and co-owner/FOH Matt Emmerson recently went on a minor refurb to slightly expand the kitchen/pass, the restaurant is bright, spacey and welcoming.

Ben has continued to hone his cuisine through his roughly 2 years at Perilla, the menu rotates frequently with the seasons, and he challenges himself with a very competitive price point (£25 for 3 lunch, £25 for Sunday lunch, £44 for 5 + canapes dinner) by applying his considerable talents. It is very inspiring to see a Chef putting his heart and soul into his cooking, while it is not something you could measure objectively, I am a believer that the ‘love’ is something that eventually finds itself on to the plate. This is firmly one of my favourite restaurants in London now, and also I believe one of the best kept secrets of a stonking Sunday roast in town.

Pictures and some descriptions of two meals presented below.

Saturday Lunch, March 2018.

1. Seaweed sourdough with braised greens and goats yoghurt

I love Hedone bread, but Ben’s bread is probably my favourite today. I think it is certainly one of the best house-made breads in London. Soft and fluffy on the inside.

The condiments have gone through a few variations, being brushed with lamb fat , various butter, but this bowl of braised greens is by far my favourite. Once you start you can’t stop !

2. Stuffed Maris Piper with shittake and hen of the woods

Mushrooms and potato – plenty of savoury deliciousness abound, a posh jacket potato so to speak, comfort food especially considering the wet Easter we just had.
I remember the miso aged lamb version, both are stunning.

3. Roast chicken thigh, under ribbons of softened turnips, pancetta, red wine and Spring white truffles

Classy dish. The chicken, nips and pancetta working out like clockwork. Harmony. This dish shows how Ben & co have been continually upping their game in the past year. It is reminiscent of Brett’s iconic carpaccio sliced clay baked beetroot and smoked eel, obviously totally different profiles, but I reckon this would give Brett’s dish, a run for its money. It’s that good !

4. Citrus and Douglas fir tart.

Sunday Lunch, April 2018.

For £28, Ben lays on a fantastic Sunday roast, with your choice of starter, and a bread service with braised greens. For an extra fiver, he’ll chuck in your choice of pudding. You shouldn’t miss it.

1. Mussels steamed and served in a soul nourishing fish soup

2. Rump of beef, salsa verde, ratatouille

Dry aged Lake District rump of beef, perfectly roasted edge to edge pink, on roast endive, with salsa verde and a big bowl of Ben’s take on ratatouille with his excellent seaweed sourdough soaked inside. Hugely comforting.

3. Sorrel & basil tart

Sorrel & basil on a citrus custard tart, that defies logic but works well, as all the components harmonise to deliver a purer version of a cheesecake.

Details

Perilla
Modern Euro
Lunch £25pp ++
Sunday £28pp ++
Dinner £344p ++
1-3 Green Lanes, Newington Green, N16 9BS
Tel : 0207 359 0779
Tube: Highbury and Islington

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