When The Clove Club boys proclaimed their next project to be ‘Britalian’, I thought for certain that we would see the return of Gio Ravelli to the fold. I know a lot has happened in the social twebz in the last five years, but surely…
[ Pictures of the menus: Dinner, Drinks ] This rather mysterious outfit in the 7th arrondissement in the left bank has left me completely enchanted. After I returned to London, I felt a jot of pride as if I’d uncovered something over there. Of course…
Have you been following the news of River Cafe staying, moving, staying? Last I read they are staying and I am glad for it. It has never been cheap to eat there (at least in my lifetime) but I adore the room, Lord Rogers’ design…
MAY 2016 UPDATE Saturday dinner, 1st week of May was not so successful. Great atmosphere however, but it seems Francesco is more patron than chef, even his front of house admit his appearance in Sartoria is a little random. This service was full, but kitchen…
I just love Roman cuisine. The simplicity, the richness and pecorino romano. The first time I had cacio e pepe (literally cheese and pepper), it required a taste re-orientation because of the sheer amount of pecorino that goes into the sauce. You’re completely engulfed in…
And here we are in 2016. Are the January blues affecting you much or are you one of those capable of tackling every new year with renewed vitality? I’m definitely the former, already looking forward to the weekend to recover from the holiday season. I…
I remember meeting Alexis in person for the first time at his eponymous Gauthier, brimming with optimism and energy, his love for his profession and his name above the door really coming to fore. I love the cooking, I think deserves to be at the…
Hello 2014! …So how’ve you been? I’m guessing you’re still very disciplined adhering to your dry January schedule to sweat off those holiday excesses. My 2013 was a bit of a whirlwind. Lots of distractions, not enough time, but there was enough time to put…
After taking time out to launch his immaculately designed Polpo cookbook, Russell Norman (and Richard Beatty) are back to open the third arm of Polpo, the first outside of Soho and their sixth opening overall. I went along to a preview last Friday – I…
Who comes up with all this fiction just for a restaurant? This is the persuasive language Oliver’s people have generated for his latest project: “Ours is a union of ideas, traditions, and of people.” “Where wood-fired flatbreads meet great British flavours.” Lookintomyeyeslookintomyeyes. What’s with the…
Banana skin. I was suggested to try the ‘Ocre Rouge’, a Pinot Noir from Dions (as opposed to Burgundy) and I had come to the conclusion that this was a quirky little devil of a wine. The finish and its tannin structure was akin to…
About a year ago, a new kind of Italian restaurant swept into the smoke. It moved the goal posts, threatened the old guard and breathed new life into this country’s image of Italian cuisine. And it was mightily affordable. The decor bare, yet efficient, the…
