Category: French

Garnier

About 7 years ago, I lived directly above what is now Eric and Didier Garnier’s eponymous French brasserie. Back in those days, a Spanish restaurant occupied that space and I remembered it being a dark, old and musty kind of decor serving food that is…

Lanka

I remember putting this cosy and dainty cafe on my list after reading LF’s detailed report nearly two years ago. It’s stayed there ever since as I can never seem to find time to visit anywhere just for cake. The owner Masayuki Hara is Japanese,…

Alyn Williams at the Westbury

“..surrounded by the greatest wines of the world..” The dining room is relatively small and is intimidating as it is posh, as the website’s official photographs suggest. Built around the ‘wine salon’, the restaurant’s private room takes up to 8 people and is encased by…

Dabbous: New Surrealism.

The man is almost too beautiful to be a chef. As we ended the meal, I told our waiter to give our compliments to him. “Oh you know Ollie?” he said. I said “No, but I read about him last night, five star game changer…

Chez Bruce : The Old Guard.

… I write to you as I lie on the blackened brown beach in Brunei. It overlooks the oil rigs just off the coast that fuels the economy of this tiny Sultanate on the Northeast coast of Borneo Island, and behind me, my parents’ backyard.…

Bistro du Vin Soho : A good standard

Here’s a list of good things I expect from a good bistro: 1.Good soup 2.Good steak 3.Good frites 4.Good tartare 5.Superhot waitress I recall a highlight reel of what the Glasgow arm of this luxury out-of-town hotelier is capable of, during an episode of Don’t…

The Bryn Williams Super Sunday Supperclub

Bryn Williams is the most underrated chef in this country. I recall his stupendous turn on the first season of Great British Menu, in which his representation of Wales on a plate of cockles, samphire and turbot, eventually won its way to HM’s 80th birthday…

Galoupet : Provencal Simulacrum

Despite the narrative the web has spun around Galoupet, you should know that this is not a restaurant. Don’t come here expecting to be fed, because you will be a little confused. Even the decor strays far from the norm, like the faintly perfumery, sterile…

Return to Medlar: The best of 2011.

All together now : Medlar is the best new restaurant of 2011. I said it, and I’d love for you guys to agree with me because I love this place to bits. The cooking is eye-wateringly sensational, the pricing is mind boggling slender, service is…

Medlar: Contender for best newcomer of 2011.

Remarkable. The standard of cooking is dastardly high, the artistry kept well in check, the flavours were – in my opinion – calibrated to run riot on your palate, that it made for a breathtaking dining experience. Service took an equally disciplined yet playful approach…

101 Pimlico Road: Sunset in Belgravia

UPDATE: Well now, this is news to me. 101 Pimlico Road is closing on the 28th of May, man that’s a loss to the trade, but here’s hoping Keith G’s next project will be more sustainable. The trick in choosing your next greatest meal is…

Chabrot: London “Bistronomique”

You can almost expect Audrey Tautou to waltz through the front door of this cosy restaurant; hang her coat, and whip her beret onto the coat rack. With Piaf marching on in the background, your eyes follow her every move, as she sits herself down…