It’s now been over a year since Alex Dilling took over the reigns from Arnaud Bignon, and what year it has been for this this charming little restaurant that has survived the decades with its series of chefs. Alex has been working non-stop upping the ante with each passing season, and most recently was rewarded by the bib in maintaining the two star rating of afforded to Abela’s crowning glory since Bignon first won it in 2013.
I’ve visited Alex about 5 – 6 visits in this past year since he took over and with each successive meal, I’ve observed the supremely talented Chef seemingly outdo himself at each turn, knocking out astounding and exciting dishes of true technical excellence that in my view makes him a legitimate recipient of a future third star. Alongside Claude Bosi and Brett Graham, IMHO, these are the three guys currently sitting at the very apex of London gastronomy. That is, if the guide awarded their stars based purely on the performance of the kitchen in that snapshot in time.
If you have something to celebrate, you should certainly consider The Greenhouse, including the n25 aged caviar supplement when presented with the choice. Photos and a few comments from my latest meal there.
Canapes spread – the best in town IMHO
1. Katsuobushi royale, cornish crab and aged Kaluga caviar
2….
Just when I think these guys have set the bar, they find another way to level up, never resting on their laurels. The craft involved blows my mind. This dish – an entree and not pudding – actually works best as a surprise…
….but if you need to know, then it is in fact tartare of Scotch lango with caviar. One of my favourite classic combos, often presented in various guises by others (Passard’s nouvelle classic is one of my all time favourites), but none quite like this.
It is encased in a set creme crue that’s soft, and somewhat gravity defying in keeping its perfectly spherical shape. Served with an ultra clean apple and bergamot consommé, its freshness and acidity counterbalancing the cream and shellfish. No modernist trickery here, just good old fashioned high level craft.
Alex did mention that they are still tweaking the ratios (less cream, more caviar core), but as it stands, I think it’s already absolutely top notch stuff. Simplicity, product quality, refinement, precision.
3. Pickled Cornish sardines, sake, English cucumber and dill
4. Andignac Foie gras, Buddha’s hand and a puree of black truffle and xeres vinegar
A preview of the winter black truffle season to come..
5. Alex’s Croque Madame.
With an onsen quail egg, thinly shaved matsutake, 18mo mimolette, jamon Iberico, watercress puree, a deep roast chicken jus. The noble mushroom (this particular specimen being Canadian) now entering its last days of the season, but losing none of its distinct and unmistakable spicy, pine flavour which more than stands up to the mature cheese.
Oh yeah my kind of sandwich, I loved this so much, being reflective of Alex’s approach as the core of his cuisine is all about unadulterated satisfaction.
6. Brittany turbot grilled over bincho, oyster veloute split with parsley oil, oyster leaf and Aged kaluga.
Such an elegant dish that is squarely about product and precision of cooking. The trinity of flavours entirely marine, juicy grilled turbot with golden caramelisation, a satin smooth sauce imbued with oyster minerality, and the rich rush of creamy brine from the caviar… refinement and simplicity – my kind of fish course, loved it.
Noble fish + caviar is a winning combo when done right imho. And the key is the ratio for it to fly, like at L’Ambrosie or P53 and indeed as is this dish right here.
7. Lievre a la Royale ‘Moderne’, foie gras emulsion and tokyo turnip
8. Hunter style Landes chicken with ceps, glazed boneless stuffed chicken wing, daikon salad roll, pomme souffle, and Alba white truffle.
I’m certain you’ve already seen piccies of this elsewhere, and it does indeed taste every bit as epic as it looks 🌟🌟🌟. The outermost chicken and Alsace bacon farci is soft all the way to the incredible crust; the detailing and the finishing of which simply astonishing. The corrugated grill lines, the shiny glaze, the thyme and shiso flower adornments, and the seamless albufera sauce. For me, the best white truffle dish of the season so far.
9. White truffle cheese toast made of Vacherin Mont d’Or cooked with vin jaune
restaurant details : website , IG
It’s now been over a year since Alex Dilling took over the reigns from Arnaud Bignon, and what year it has been for this this charming little restaurant that has survived the decades with its series of chefs. Alex has been working non-stop upping the ante with each passing season, and most recently was rewarded by the bib in maintaining the two star rating of afforded to Abela’s crowning glory since Bignon first won it in 2013.
I’ve visited Alex about 5 – 6 visits in this past year since he took over and with each successive meal, I’ve observed the supremely talented Chef seemingly outdo himself at each turn, knocking out astounding and exciting dishes of true technical excellence that in my view makes him a legitimate recipient of a future third star. Alongside Claude Bosi and Brett Graham, IMHO, these are the three guys currently sitting at the very apex of London gastronomy. That is, if the guide awarded their stars based purely on the performance of the kitchen in that snapshot in time.
If you have something to celebrate, you should certainly consider The Greenhouse, including the n25 aged caviar supplement when presented with the choice. Photos and a few comments from my latest meal there.
Canapes spread – the best in town IMHO
1. Katsuobushi royale, cornish crab and aged Kaluga caviar
2….
Just when I think these guys have set the bar, they find another way to level up, never resting on their laurels. The craft involved blows my mind. This dish – an entree and not pudding – actually works best as a surprise…
….but if you need to know, then it is in fact tartare of Scotch lango with caviar. One of my favourite classic combos, often presented in various guises by others (Passard’s nouvelle classic is one of my all time favourites), but none quite like this.
It is encased in a set creme crue that’s soft, and somewhat gravity defying in keeping its perfectly spherical shape. Served with an ultra clean apple and bergamot consommé, its freshness and acidity counterbalancing the cream and shellfish. No modernist trickery here, just good old fashioned high level craft.
Alex did mention that they are still tweaking the ratios (less cream, more caviar core), but as it stands, I think it’s already absolutely top notch stuff. Simplicity, product quality, refinement, precision.
3. Pickled Cornish sardines, sake, English cucumber and dill
4. Andignac Foie gras, Buddha’s hand and a puree of black truffle and xeres vinegar
A preview of the winter black truffle season to come..
5. Alex’s Croque Madame.
With an onsen quail egg, thinly shaved matsutake, 18mo mimolette, jamon Iberico, watercress puree, a deep roast chicken jus. The noble mushroom (this particular specimen being Canadian) now entering its last days of the season, but losing none of its distinct and unmistakable spicy, pine flavour which more than stands up to the mature cheese.
Oh yeah my kind of sandwich, I loved this so much, being reflective of Alex’s approach as the core of his cuisine is all about unadulterated satisfaction.
6. Brittany turbot grilled over bincho, oyster veloute split with parsley oil, oyster leaf and Aged kaluga.
Such an elegant dish that is squarely about product and precision of cooking. The trinity of flavours entirely marine, juicy grilled turbot with golden caramelisation, a satin smooth sauce imbued with oyster minerality, and the rich rush of creamy brine from the caviar… refinement and simplicity – my kind of fish course, loved it.
Noble fish + caviar is a winning combo when done right imho. And the key is the ratio for it to fly, like at L’Ambrosie or P53 and indeed as is this dish right here.
7. Lievre a la Royale ‘Moderne’, foie gras emulsion and tokyo turnip
8. Hunter style Landes chicken with ceps, glazed boneless stuffed chicken wing, daikon salad roll, pomme souffle, and Alba white truffle.
I’m certain you’ve already seen piccies of this elsewhere, and it does indeed taste every bit as epic as it looks 🌟🌟🌟. The outermost chicken and Alsace bacon farci is soft all the way to the incredible crust; the detailing and the finishing of which simply astonishing. The corrugated grill lines, the shiny glaze, the thyme and shiso flower adornments, and the seamless albufera sauce. For me, the best white truffle dish of the season so far.
9. White truffle cheese toast made of Vacherin Mont d’Or cooked with vin jaune
10. Game season pate en croute.
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